Hello!
In this article we will learn how to draw the design of a shirt sleeve.
In the previous article, we already found out that shirt-cut clothing differs in the parameters and configuration of the armhole. The cut of the sleeve also depends on the parameters of the armhole. First of all, shirt-cut sleeves differ in the length and height of the collar; such sleeves have a minimal fit, or can even be non-stop.
A pattern for such a sleeve can be obtained by modifying the basic designs of the dress and set-in sleeves, that is, using constructive modeling, or using the method of constructing a shirt-cut sleeve design. Today we will look at the second option.
Since in the last article we built shirt patterns of two different silhouettes, then in this article we will look at the construction of sleeves for a semi-fitting and straight silhouette of a shirt. The designs of these sleeves differ only in the height of the edge and the width of the sleeve itself, but the methodology for constructing the drawing is the same.
To create a pattern for a single-seam shirt sleeve, we will need the following measurements:
(you can see how to take measurements correctly In this article).
Let's prepare a blank sheet of paper, the length of which is equal to the length of the sleeve.
Sleeve length and width. Let's construct a rectangle AA 1 H 1 H, whose sides AN and A 1 H 1 are equal to the measurement of the sleeve length minus half the height of the cuff (in my example, the height of the cuff is 6 cm) (segment AN = A 1 H 1 = Dr-6: 2 = 52- 3=49cm).
For a straight silhouette sides AA 1 and NN 1 are equal to the measurement of half chest circumference (AA 1 = NN 1 = 40.5 cm).
For a semi-fitted silhouette sides AA 1 and NN 1 are found using the formula (1/3 of the measurement Cg+3cm)x2 (AA 1 = NN 1 = (1/3Cg+3)x2=(40.5:3+3)x2=33cm).
Sleeve hem.
For a straight silhouette from point A down in a straight line we put aside 1/6 of the half-chest measurement + 2cm and put point P (segment AP=1/6Cr+CO=40.5:6+2=8.8cm)
For a semi-fitted silhouette down from point A we will set aside 3/4 of the measurement of the armhole depth (we will take this value from the construction of the design of a shirt with a semi-adjacent silhouette) minus 1 cm and put point P (segment AP = 3/4Gpr-1 = 17.5: 4x3-1 = 12.1 cm ).
From point P to the right we draw a horizontal line until it intersects with side A 1 H 1, denoting the intersection point as P 1.
Midline. Divide side AA 1 in half, denoting the division point O (AO = OA 1 = 1/2AA 1). Down from point O we lower the perpendicular until it intersects with the bottom line; we call the intersection point H2.
Sleeve piping line.
For a straight silhouette. Let's connect points P and O with a dotted line, we will divide this line in half, at the upward division point we will restore a perpendicular of 1.5 cm and place point O 1.
Let's connect points P, O 1 and O with a smooth line.
Now let's connect points O and P 1 with a dotted line and divide this line into three equal parts. At the upper point of the division upward, we will restore a perpendicular of 1 cm and mark the point O 2, at the lower point of division we will restore a perpendicular of 0.5 cm downwards and mark the point O 3. Let's draw a smooth armhole line through points O, O 2, the midpoint of the segment OP 1, O 3 and P 1.
For a semi-fitted slit. Let's connect points P and O with a thin line, divide this segment in half, and denote the division point as O 1. Now we will divide the segment PO 1 in half and set the division point O 2, we will also divide the segment PO 2 in half, and at the down division points we will restore a perpendicular of 0.5 cm. From point O 1 we will set aside 1.5 cm upward. We will divide the segment O 1 O in half, designate the division point as O 3, and from this point upward at a right angle we will set aside 2 cm. Let's draw an armhole line through points P, 0,5 , O 2 , 1,5 , 2 and about.
Let's connect points O and P 1 with a thin line, divide the segment in half and put point O 4. Divide the segment OO 4 in half and restore the perpendicular 1.5 cm upward from the division point. Divide the segment O 4 P 1 in half and restore a perpendicular of 2 cm down from the division point. Let's draw an armhole line through points O, 1,5 , O 4 , 2 and P 1.
Side sections of sleeves. From points H and H 1 to the right and left along the bottom line, set aside 1/8 of the half-chest measurement and place points H 3 and H 4 (HH 3 = H 1 H 4 = 1/8Cr = 40.5:8 = 5 cm).
Let's connect point P with point H 3 and P 1 with H 4 with straight lines.
For a narrower sleeve, points P, N 3, P 1 and N 4 are first connected with thin lines, which are divided in half, and perpendiculars of 1-2 cm in size are restored from the division points and smooth concave lines of side cuts are drawn.
Slit for sleeve fastening. Divide the segment H 3 H 2 in half and put 2 cm to the left of the division point and place a point H 5. Up from point H 5 we draw a cut line measuring 10-12 cm.
This completes the construction of the shirt sleeve design. Our pattern is ready!
Plank. To process the cut of the sleeve fastener we need a strip. The method of processing the fastener depends on the model features of the shirt and the characteristics of the material, and, accordingly, the pattern of the placket depends. I propose to consider the method of processing the fastener in a classic shirt.
Constructing a placket pattern for processing a sleeve cut. Draw a rectangle with a height equal to the length of the sleeve cut and a width of 1 cm; this rectangle is the frame for the cut. To the left of the frame, a rectangle is drawn with a width of 7-8mm and a height equal to the height of the frame; this rectangle is the bottom bar. To the right of the frame, a rectangle is drawn 2.5-3 cm wide and 4-5 cm high than the height of the frame. The upper cut of this rectangle is shaped with a toe (depending on the model, the upper cut may remain straight or maybe rounded, but the classic version is a toe). Exactly the same rectangle with a toe is drawn on the right side; these two rectangles are the top bar.
Often, the plank pattern is created immediately with allowances that are 1 cm along all cuts, and 1.5 cm along the bottom line.
For denser fabrics, the pattern of the strap is slightly modified - the height of the left side of the top strip is equal to the height of the frame, that is, the height of the cut for the fastener, and the right side of the strip is already drawn 4-5 cm higher and the top cut is shaped with a toe. The bottom bar can also have a different look and consist of two equal rectangles, which are equal in height and width to the cutting frame.
Cuff. To process the lower section of the sleeve we will need a cuff. Its pattern is constructed very simply: draw a rectangle ABCD, in which sides AB and CD are equal to the wrist circumference measurement + 4 cm for the clasp (AB = CD = Oz + 4 = 15 + 4 = 19 cm), and sides AD and BC are equal to 6-8 cm ( BP=BC=6cm).
When processing the lower cut of the sleeve, the one-piece cuff is folded in half.
The single-seam sleeve pattern discussed below is used for various types of clothing - blouses, dresses, jackets, coats.
Most often used for jackets, men's jackets and outerwear.
When starting to create a sleeve pattern, you need the following:
DR – sleeve length = 58 cm
DL – length to elbow = 33 cm
OK – hand circumference = 22 cm
OR – arm circumference = 27 cm
L pr.P. – shelf armhole length = 21 cm
L pr.S. – back armhole length = 20 cm
Free-fitting (SF) increments to the OP measure
| Characteristics of sleeves | Amount of increase, cm | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| Dress | Jacket | Coat | |
| Tight-fitting | 3-4 | 4-4,5 | 5-7 |
| Narrow | 4-6 | 5,5-7,5 | 7-9 |
| Average | 6-8 | 7,5-9,5 | 9,5-12 |
| Advanced | 8-10 | 9,5-11,5 | 12-14 |
| Wide | 10-12 | 11,5-13,5 | 14,5-17 |
The sleeve cap must correspond to the size and shape of the armhole of the product.
To correctly pair the sleeve cap with the armhole, it is necessary to measure the length of the armhole according to the bodice pattern of the product and calculate its vertical diameter (VD av) - the height of the armhole.
To determine the height of the product's armhole (VD cp), you must:
- or measure from the bodice pattern the height of the back armhole VPrS = 17.5 cm and the height of the front armhole VPrP = 16 cm, as shown in Fig. 1. These two quantities are summed and divided in half.
VD av = (VPrS + VPrP) / 2 = (17.5 cm + 16 cm) / 2 = 16.75 cm
- or if the drawing of the back and shelf is built side by side, then connect the finally adjusted shoulder points of the back and shelf with a straight line. Then divide it in half, and from the division point lower the perpendicular to the real line of the armhole (Fig. 1).
To determine the height of the collar (VO k) of a set-in sleeve, it is necessary to subtract the coefficient K from the armhole height (VD av), which depends on the size:
a) up to size 48 K = 2.5 cm
b) for sizes 48-50 K = 2 cm
c) for sizes 52-54 K = 1.5 cm
d) for sizes 56 and more K = 1 cm
Or the height of the sleeve cap is equal to 1/3 of the length of the back and front armhole: VO k = 1/3 (L pr.S + L pr.P.)
Constructing a single-seam sleeve pattern
1. Draw a vertical line on which to mark the length of the sleeve: OH = DR measurement + shoulder pad height (if any) = 58 cm + 1.5 cm = 59.5 cm.
2. Length to the elbow line: OL = DL measurement + shoulder pad height (if any) = 33 cm + 1.5 cm = 34.5 cm.
3. Height of the sleeve cap (VO k): OG = VD avg - K (coefficient) = 16.75 cm – 2.5 cm = 14.25 cm.
Draw a horizontal line through G - the axillary line.
4. From point G to the right and left, set aside the width of the sleeve: GG 1 = GG 2 = 1/2 (measurement OR + CO) = 1/2 (27 cm + 5 cm) = 16 cm.
For tight-fitting, narrow and medium-width sleeves, it is necessary to build an elbow dart.
5. Construction of the sleeve cap
Connect straight lines O to G 1 and O to G 2. Divide the resulting segments into 4 parts.
From the obtained points, draw perpendiculars to the segments OG 1 and OG 2:
- O 1 - inward 1.3 cm;
- O 2 - outward 0.5 cm;
- O 3 - outward 1.9 cm;
- O 4 - 1 cm inward;
- O 5 - outward 0.6 cm;
- O 6 - outward 1.6 cm;
Form the sleeve cap from point G 1 through the points on the perpendiculars to G 2.
6. Displacement of the middle of the narrow sleeve at the bottom to the left: HH 1 = 1-1.5-2 cm.
7. Width of the front half at the bottom: H 1 H 2 = 1/2 (OK + CO) – 1 = 1/2 (22 cm + 2 cm) – 1 cm = 11 cm.
8. Width of the back half at the bottom: H 1 H 3 = 1/2 (OK + CO) + 1 = 1/2 (22 cm + 2 cm) + 1 cm = 13 cm.
9. Notch along the elbow line of the front cut: L 1 L 2 = 1-1.5 cm.
10. To design the elbow section, connect the straight line G 2 with H 3, then from the point L 3 obtained on the elbow line, form the convexity of the elbow section outward: L 3 L 4 = 1-1.5 cm.
In wide sleeves, the convexity at the elbow may be small (0.5-0.7 cm) or absent altogether.
11. Extend the elbow cut down by the amount of the fit plus 0.5-0.7 cm (adjustment amount):
- for well-shrinking fabric H 3 H 4 = 2-3 cm + 0.5-0.7 cm;
- for poorly ironed fabric H 3 H 4 = 1-1.5 cm + 0.5-0.7 cm.
If a dart 6-8 cm long and 2-2.5 cm deep is built along the elbow line, then the elbow section at the bottom is extended to a dart depth of 2-2.5 cm plus a 0.5 cm fit around the dart, then the segment H 3 H 4 = 2 .5-3 cm.
12. Draw a smooth line for the bottom of the sleeve through points H 2 and H 4 with a right angle at point H 4.
Sleeve fit
The sleeve, sewn into the armhole, should have a good fit and match the circumference of the arm. In order for the result to be satisfactory, the length of the sleeve cap must exceed the length of the armhole of the product by the amount of fit.
The fit of the sleeve is distributed in the upper part of the sleeve, in the lower part of the sleeve the fit is minimal, there is no need to give shape and volume to the sleeve, it is important that the sleeve is located in the armhole without tension. The division of the sleeve cap into upper and lower parts determines the location of the control marks, and the fit of the sleeve is distributed between these marks.
Control marks for armhole and sleeve cap
To ensure correct connection of the sleeve with the armhole of the product, control marks are placed as follows:
- on the front armhole line - at point O 6;
- on the back armhole line - at point O 2.
Measure the length of the lower section of the front armhole to point O 6 and set this value along the piping line of the front part of the sleeve from point G 1. Place a control sign.
Measure the length of the lower section of the back armhole to point O 2 and set this value along the piping line of the front part of the sleeve from point G 2. Place a control sign.
Determining the size of the fit by the sleeve edge
Using a measuring tape or flexible ruler, holding it on the edge, measure the length of the cut of the front and back of the garment.
Set aside from point G 1 along the edge line of the front part of the sleeve the length of the entire front armhole. The resulting point will be slightly to the left of the midline of the sleeve.
Similarly, transfer the length of the back armhole to the back of the hem from point G 2. The resulting point will be to the right of the midline of the sleeve.
The gap between these points is the fit along the sleeve edge. It is divided in half - the point in the middle of this section will be a control sign for connecting the sleeve with the armhole in the area of the shoulder seam.
The resulting fit value is compared with the fit rate calculated from the table for a specific fabric.
Sleeve fit standards for various fabrics
| No. | Types of fabrics offered | landing rate |
| Woolen, suiting fabrics with synthetic fibers more than 30%; synthetic silks; fine natural silks | ||
| Woolen, suiting fabrics with synthetic fibers from 15-30%; dense silk fabrics; cotton thin fabrics (cambric, voile) | ||
| Pure wool dress fabrics; silk suiting fabrics; cotton and linen | ||
| Wool-blend dress fabrics; fine wool coats and suits; pure wool coat fine fabrics | ||
| Coarse cloth woolen coat drapes; wool blend fine cloth drapes | ||
| Soft pure wool fine cloth drapes |
For example: the entire measured armhole of the front and back is equal to 21 cm + 20 cm = 41 cm. Then the size of the sleeve fit for woolen fabric is 41 cm x 0.08 = 4.3 cm.
If the fit along the sleeve edge is greater or less than recommended, then the sleeve needs to be adjusted.
Sleeve adjustment options
Changing sleeve width
Changing the sleeve width along the armpit line always leads to an increase or decrease in fit along the sleeve hem.
An example of increasing the sleeve width by 1.2 cm (Fig. 1)
2. Extend the axillary line 0.6 cm in each direction.
3. Pin the leftmost point of the sleeve pattern edging with a button to the expansion point along the axillary line of the back of the sleeve. Rotate the sleeve pattern until the cut edge of the sleeve pattern touches the cut line of the copied sleeve at the back control marks. Trace the contours of the sleeve pattern, fixing it in this position. Align the rim line.
To draw a longitudinal cut line for a sleeve, rotate the sleeve pattern until the longitudinal cut line of the sleeve pattern touches the bottom line of the copied sleeve. Trace the contours of the sleeve pattern, fixing it in this position, adjust the lines and elbow dart.
4. Repeat the process with the front of the sleeve (the dotted line indicates the lines of the original sleeve shape).
An example of reducing the sleeve width by 1.2 cm (Fig. 2)
1. Copy the sleeve pattern onto a sheet of paper.
2. Set aside 0.6 cm inward on each side of the axillary line.
3. Pin the sleeve pattern to the marked point on the armpit line and follow the directions given in the previous example.
Increasing or decreasing the sleeve fit
Below is shown how you can increase or decrease the size of the sleeve fit without changing its width.
To increase the height of the collar, cut the sleeve along the armpit line and cut the sleeve cap along the line of the middle of the sleeve. Turn the front and back parts of the sleeve cap upwards so that the cut of the sleeve expands by the required amount (Fig. 3).
To reduce the height of the collar, cut the sleeve along the armpit line, and cut the sleeve cap along the line of the middle of the sleeve. Turn the front and back parts of the sleeve cap downwards so that they overlap each other (Fig. 4).
Many academic disciplines offer us to learn complex and far from optimal ways to solve certain problems. Probably specialists really should know the theory inside and out, but for an ordinary person a simple effective method is enough.
The combination of the words “cutting and sewing” has become something familiar and indivisible. But many amateur seamstresses hate the first part. They can use ready-made patterns from magazines, or master this ingenious cutting method. Moreover, we are talking about the sleeve - that part of the product that is quite difficult to build without a lot of measurements and calculations.
The characteristics of the human body make it possible to design a sleeve by measuring only the palm! To create a sleeve pattern, use this trick.
First of all, you need to draw a horizontal line on a sheet of paper and draw a right angle from it. The width of the base is calculated based on the dimensions of the pattern of the shelf and back. The sleeves should align with the armholes on them. The perpendicular line will be the middle of the sleeve.
Place your palm on the base so that the middle finger aligns with the center line. We spread our fingers as far apart as possible and mark their boundaries on paper. Then we remove our hand and connect the resulting marks with a curved, rounded line. The left palm allows you to create a pattern for the right sleeve.
On the pattern we sign the parts that will correspond to the shelf (the front of the product) and the back.
We mark with a red line on the sleeve the place where the seam will go. After this, we cut the pattern along the seam and glue the parts, swapping them.
We recently discussed the topic of clasps. Now you know how to make a blouse or other product with a fastener, how to make a half-skid, how to apply and combine the line of the center front, so let’s continue our study on this synthetic georgette blouse and learn how to sew in sleeves correctly. Today our task is to go through all the technological processes associated with sewing in a sleeve.
Despite the fact that when constructing a basic pattern using a cutting system of 10 measurements, the armhole and sleeve turn out to be ideal, however, there are certain nuances that I would like to draw your attention to.
From my own experience, I know that some people even left the profession only because no one could competently explain to them how to sew on sleeves correctly, since on our life’s path we may not always meet good teachers who can explain incomprehensible moments.
Before us is the armhole of the blouse.
We deepened it a little and here is our sleeve. In order to continue working, we need to sew one side and shoulder seam, as well as the inner seam of the sleeve. Since this blouse is exclusively educational material, I will not waste time sewing all the seams and relief, so now we are only working on the sleeve armhole. We go to the sewing machine and sew down the side seam. In my videos, I have already said that you need to be able to work correctly at a sewing machine, sit correctly, hold your hands correctly, process seams correctly, immediately cut the thread and clean the seams from excess threads after stitching the seam.
If you do everything correctly, then your work will look neat and professional, look at my stitching, it is perfect, there is no seam pulled, no fabric pulled out.
We grind the sleeve from the edging from top to bottom. And iron the seams.
When working with an iron, it is important to remember that the first movements with the iron must be made from the inside out and they must be very light, neat, so that we do not end up with random folds on the face of the product, since modern fabrics can be such that these creases from the iron can remain forever and then it will be impossible to correct them with anything.
The quality of work immediately decreases sharply.
After the side seam, we iron the shoulder seam, while we iron it back, towards the back, since it is important for us to have an armhole and we try for it, but for a real product, the shoulder seam would be ironed on both sides.
After all the seams have been ironed, we go to the machine. To sew a sleeve into an armhole, in our atelier and from the practice of my work, we use a seam with an allowance of 0.5-0.7 cm. I do not accept any other seam allowance in the armhole. All our products have very neat, thin seams; there are no thick or rough seams in products sewn by our craftsmen.
We take our sleeve, fold it in half and mark approximately in the middle or slightly lower along the edge of the sleeve points on both sides, from which we will lay a seam along which we will lightly fit our sleeve. After we made this seam. We need to apply the sleeve to the armhole of the sleeve cut by section and see how much they match.
In our case, approximately 2 cm remains.
If we had this distance greater, then this would be a serious problem and we would have to look for what is wrong with us. And as a result, it would be necessary to reduce the sleeve and increase the armhole.
You must remember that the inside seam of the sleeve does not have to match the side seam. Since the side seam according to our system is located where it is convenient for us in terms of style and cut, namely on half or a third of the armhole, in the middle of the mesh, therefore, in the basic system it is not intended that these two seams coincide. But it’s a completely different matter how much the seams of the right and left sleeves do not match; here we must be careful and monitor everything that we do.
So let's continue. Here is our armhole, our sleeve. We take the sleeve with the front side facing us and begin to use the bottom thread of our laid seam to gather the sleeve along the edge from the beginning of the seam to the top of the sleeve edge from both sides up. We don’t make folds, but very carefully gather the fabric and straighten it, distributing all the gathers evenly. 
After this, very carefully straighten the fabric so that there is a slight wave of the fabric, but there are no folds. After this, pin the center of the sleeve with the shoulder seam. Be careful, we do not stitch our sleeve all over the circle at once, but first work in separate sections, first in one direction, and then in the other direction from the center of the sleeve, using small stitches we sew up the sleeve and armhole. After sweeping the upper part of the sleeve, we put the sleeve on the arm and see if the fit of the sleeve is good.
If we are satisfied with the way we sewed the top of the sleeve, we begin to work with the lower part of the armhole and sleeve, to do this we put our sleeve on our fingers and distribute the fabric the way it wants to lie, while straightening out possible folds and noting how much excess we have. in the armhole. 
You must remember that we cannot take anything into the width, but we can quite easily take anything into the depth of the armhole if such a need arises. Even with an ideal pattern, this is quite possible, but if you follow these recommendations, look at how the sleeve fits. Now we need to baste the bottom line of the armhole and cut off the excess fabric. 
After that, we go to sew the seam on the machine.
We always sew on the sleeve. If you sew in a sleeve from the side of the product, you will not be able to control the situation and may well sew up unnecessary folds. As you work, have a seam ripper next to you; if you suddenly develop a crease, you can straighten the fabric and make a high-quality seam. After that, we will clean all the seams and go to the overlocker to process the cuts with an overlocker. And then we will look at how to properly iron a sleeve. On the overlocker we also hold the product with the sleeve towards us and the product away from us, the product should be inside. This is necessary so that you can control the gathering of the sleeve so that everything is in sight.
On the ironing board we place the sleeve in the same way with the upper part so that we can again see and control the process. It is necessary to iron the slightly wavy edge of the sleeve along the seam in the same way as to press it so that there is no looseness or waviness of the fabric and at the same time no folds can be placed anywhere.
When ironing, you should not go too far with the iron; we work carefully only with the seam. Along the bottom line of the armhole we make a slight pull on the seam, which will give great comfort along the armhole line. Let's go for a fitting. Look how perfect the fit is!
set-in sleeve theme, perfect fit
I was glad to show you this video lesson. In the process of work, such nuances in technology were considered as: how to compare the armhole with the sleeve; how to deepen the armhole; how to baste the upper part of the sleeve and carefully lay out the lower part of the armhole; how to remove excess armhole without straining the fabric and armhole; how to throw in a sleeve; how to stitch correctly; how to process a seam with an overlocker: but equally important is how you iron the finished sleeve.
This video is an addition to our course on the 10-measurement cutting system. I really hope that after this video you will have a different attitude towards the topic of sewing in sleeves.
If you watched the material and liked the video, write comments, ask questions, and share this information with your friends. I am very pleased to share my knowledge and many years of professional experience with you. Thank you for being with us, for watching and subscribing to our channel. All the best, I was with you, Paukshte Irina Mikhailovna!
To create a pattern for a tapered sleeve, use following sizes:
shoulder girth – 29;
wrist circumference – 16;
sleeve length to elbow – 32;
sleeve length – 58.
On the left side of the sheet, draw a line on which to mark the length of the sleeve and put points A and H. Draw lines from points A and H to the right.
Sleeve width. From point A to the right, set aside the shoulder circumference plus 7cm and place point B (29+7=36cm). From point B, lower the line down and place point H1 at the intersection with the bottom line.
Sleeve hem height. From point A downwards, remove 3/4 of the depth of the back armhole plus 1 cm and place point O
(19: 4 x 3 + 1).
From point O to the right, draw a line until it intersects with line BH1. Place point O1 at the intersection.
Elbow line. From point A down, set aside the length of the sleeve to the elbow plus 2cm and put point L (32+2=34cm). From L to the right, draw a line until it intersects with the BH1 line. Place point L1 at the intersection.
Cutting edge. Divide distance OO1 into six equal parts. Label the division points O2, O3, O4 and O6. From each point upward, draw lines perpendicular to line OO1, until they intersect with line AB. At the intersection, place points A1, A2, A3, A4 and A5. From O2 up, set aside 1/3 of the height of the sleeve hem minus 1 cm and place point A6 (15.4: 3-1 = 4.1 cm). From A2 and A4 downwards, set aside 1/3 of the sleeve cap height minus 2.2 cm. and put points A7 and A8 (15.5: 3-2.2 = 2.9 cm). From O6 up, set aside 1/6 of the height of the sleeve cap and place A9 (15.4:6 = 2.5 cm). Divide the segment O6O1 into three parts, marking the right division point as O7. Connect points O, A6, A7, A3, A8, A9, O7 and O1.
Sleeve midline. Extend line A3O4 down, mark the intersection with the line of the elbow and the bottom of the sleeve as L2 and H2. From H2 to the right, set aside 2 cm and place H3. Connect points H3 and L2.
Front sleeve cut line. From H3 to the right, set aside ½ of the wrist circumference plus 2-3 cm and place point H4 (16:2+3=11cm). Connect H4 and O1 with a dotted line. From the intersection of the dotted line with the elbow line, set aside 1 cm to the left and place L3. Connect points O1, L3 and H4.
Back sleeve cut line. From H3 to the left, place a perpendicular to the line L2 H3. From point H3 along this line, set aside ½ of the wrist circumference plus 2-3cm and place H5 (16:2+3=11cm). From point L to the right, set aside 2 cm and place point L4. Connect point L4 with points O and H5. Mark the intersection with line HH1 as H6.
Elbow dart line. From point L4 downwards, set aside the value of the segment H5H6 and place point L5. From L4 to the right, set aside 6 - 7 cm (dart length) and connect to L5.
