For the hardworking - a bright light burns through life, for the lazy - a dim candle
Constructing a base pattern - THE MOST CLEAR METHOD (for beginners)
Good afternoon I would even say a beautiful day. Because we are finally starting a series of articles on tailoring for adults. We have already sewn a lot of things for little girls - both dresses and bodysuits are different - now we will sew for big girls. That is, for myself. And since you and I have already practiced sewing, the fear of the pioneer has passed.
THAT MEANS IT'S TIME TO TAKE A NEW FRONTIER. And master the wisdom of sewing using real adult patterns yourself, with your own hands and your own brains. We will draw the base pattern ourselves - in a new, easy way (I spent more than one week creating this lightweight method for creating a base pattern). And then we will sew a bunch of all kinds of dresses, tops and tunics.
No- I won’t give you a single finished pattern!
I'm not Madame Burda. I am Madame Klishevskaya.))) And the main harmfulness of my character is... That I will make your head work and give birth to bright and clear discoveries in the field of sewing. The easiest and most understandable of all types of art. Believe me, this is true.
Yes- sewing yourself is very easy and simple!
Right from scratch you will get more and more beautiful and well-tailored things.
Moreover, you will do everything yourself, without a state of hypnosis, but in a sober mind and clear memory. YOU will DO it - moreover, you will UNDERSTAND what exactly you are doing.
I will tell you the secrets that I know. Moreover, I will teach you to discover more and more secrets of the world of sewing and clothing design.
I will not lead you (blind and stupid) by the hand in the chaos of letters and numbers denoting the intricacy of numerous lines of the design drawing. NO, I WILL NOT TAKE YOU HERE:
Well, you must admit, one such picture can instill fear and make a girl who doubts her own abilities really, really wants to sew a dress- But I wasn’t very good with geometry and drawing during my school years. Even I, who adores both of these school subjects, beat around the bush for several years, not daring to start delving into the construction of such a drawing: “How long will it take to draw something like this, and after all, everything must be calculated correctly and not get confused in the letters...”.
And, nevertheless, today we will draw a pattern.
We will draw a base pattern (you see a piece of it from above.))))
But - don’t be afraid - we will create our pattern a little differently. Away from the engineering design method - and closer to human understanding.
We will draw one for you - just one- pattern.
And then from it we will create more and more new dress models. And it will be very easy and simple.
- No confusing formulas
- No confusing calculations.
- And without the letter-number cobweb.
So how? Have I already alleviated some of your concerns?
I'll relax now - we won't start drawing right now. First, we'll take a nice stroll through the pattern. The purpose of the walk is to get to know and become friends with the pattern and remove the last doubt that you can sew any dress.
So... what is a pattern - the basis?
To put it figuratively, this is a cast of your body. This is your individual imprint. Any item sewn according to YOUR base pattern will fit YOUR figure perfectly.
Yes, you heard right - ANY THING can be sewn on the basis one single pattern. All dress models are born, modeled, and sewn from one source - this is the base pattern.
I will now prove it to you with an example. Even with three examples - in the form of photos and pictures.
Here is the first photo (below). Our pattern base is essentially your sheath dress (the one that fits your body perfectly). Dress made by yours pattern base, will follow all the curves your his bodies. This simple sheath dress is sewn using a regular base pattern. You see, it’s like a plaster cast of a girl’s figure.
And today, having drawn the base pattern, you can safely cut it on the fabric - and you will get a dress like this. The only thing you can change is the neckline - giving it the shape that suits your face shape.
All other (any kind) dress models are just a modification of a sheath dress - fantasies on a free theme.
That's how it works in the fashion world.
One day a fashion designer thought...“What if the bodice of the dress at the top is held on the shoulders by a round yoke (yellow outlines - figure below), and the bodice itself is made in the form of overlapping intersecting triangles (red outlines - figure below). The result is what we see in the photo below.
Beautiful? Beautiful! What did the fashion designer base his fantasies on? Based on a pattern. And you can come up with something of your own. We women have just a lot of imagination.
By the way - since we’re talking about a round yoke here - this site already has one of my articles on creating and
And another fashion designer thought: “What if you give the sheath dress a looser cut - make it wider. And make the shoulder line longer so that it hangs over the arm.” And as a result, a new model is born (photo below) - also very beautiful. And it's very simple.
You can do this too. If you will UNDERSTAND what the base pattern consists of. And by what laws does it exist?
That is why I don’t want to stupidly give you instructions on creating a base pattern (like “draw a line from point P6 to point P5 and mark the place where it intersects line X with the next point...” - ugh!).
I want to awaken you bitch. I want you to feel the pattern, to know its soul. Haven't learned to see what a simple drawing hides behind a photograph of any dress, even an intricately tailored one.
Therefore, for the next 30 minutes we will not draw anything - we will walk through the pattern itself. Let's get acquainted with all its elements - find out what each line serves, and why it is located here and drawn this way.
After such an “educational walk” you will feel a joyful clarity of understanding of everything, everything, everything. It's as if you've already drawn basic patterns many times. And you will take up the drawing with the feeling that this is a couple of trifles. Ha! Business!
As the sage said: “We are afraid only of what we cannot understand and explain logically. But as soon as the thing that frightens us becomes clear to us, it ceases to cause us fear.”
So let’s go and tame this “terrible beast” - the base pattern. Let's tame and draw in 20 minutes. Yes, yes, in 20 minutes - because after a walk - the pattern drawing will seem to you an old and familiar simple drawing - like a grid for playing tic-tac-toe.
Where does the base pattern come from?
So where does the base pattern come from - usually it is obtained from the following drawing:
The drawing contains half of the back part + half of the front part.
We will also draw a similar drawing with you - only more simple and understandable.
And what these halves are needed for, and where to use them - now I will clearly show everything.
Here (!) I dug up a wonderful sample - below - in the photograph of a black and white dress, our halves are very clearly visible - both the back half and the front half. So to speak - clearly and understandably.
Yes, in the Potnovian language the halves are called “shelves”. Today we will draw these same front and back shelves. But first, let’s take a closer look at what elements each shelf consists of. And most importantly, I will tell you why each element is needed and what it serves.
To make everything as clear as possible, I will illustrate each of the elements both in pictures and in photographs of real dress models.
First, let's get acquainted with two incomprehensible words: DOT And ARMHOLE.
Of course you may know them. Or maybe not. My job is to introduce you.
So, meet - PROYMA
When drawing a base pattern, you will create exactly that bend and size armhole that suits you – when the armhole does not pull or dig into your arm.
That is, the pattern base contains minimum armhole size allowed. You can model the armhole to your taste, in any configuration. But your fantasy armhole should not be smaller than on the base pattern. That is, the armhole is based on a pattern - These are the boundaries beyond which your imagination should not cross.
Your model armhole can be as large as you like - but it cannot be smaller than on the base pattern. More - yes, less - no - otherwise it will dig into the armpit. This is the rule in modeling designer armholes.
Now let's get acquainted with the darts.
BACK DARTS – shoulder dart + waist dart
In the picture above, I wrote everything about the back darts - and in the photo of the dress you can find 2 waist darts - one to the right of the zipper, the other to the left of the zipper.
But you don’t see the shoulder dart on this dress. And many dresses don’t have it either. Because for convenience and beauty, this dart is moved from the middle of the shoulder to the zipper (or along the edge of the armhole, where the sleeve will be, a corner is simply cut off). That is, the excess fabric is not pinched at the middle of the shoulder and is not sewn inside the dart. And the extra fabric cut in the form of a corner at the edge of the shelf, where the zipper is sewn in, or at the edge of the armhole - where the sleeve will be sewn in.
Also, darts are not necessary if you sew from stretch fabric - it itself follows the curves of your body and shrinks both in the shoulder and waist areas.
Let's get to know each other next... DARTS ON HALF FRONT
Oh, I could write a whole poem about her.
I spent a long time wondering how to explain more clearly - why it is needed and by what laws it lives. I thought and thought... and came up with an idea.
The fact is that a woman has breasts.))) That is, from the front, an adult girl is no longer flat. This means that the dress should be convex in the chest area. The dart on the front shoulder gives the dress that same bulge in the bust area. Now I’ll show you everything in pictures. How does this happen.
For example, we have a flat piece of fabric, but we need to make a convex piece out of it. To do this, you need to make a tuck on it. For example, this flat circle of cardboard will now become convex with the help of a dart.
And here's how a bust dart creates a bulge on the front detail
You will notice that the top of the convexity (that is, the peak of our round pyramid) is at the tip of the dart. Pay attention to this. Because when we draw the bust dart, the point of our dart will be at the top of the chest(where the nipple or bra cup is usually located).
Remember that sometimes you tried on a dress in your size in a store, which somehow strangely skewed on the chest - this is because the dart in the dress with its point was directed by the tops of your chest. So the breasts did not fit perfectly into the bulge of the dress. This product was not cut at the factory to suit your breast shape.
But that is not all, what I want to say about the chest dart.
The fact is that in almost all dresses this chest dart is located not on the shoulder- A on the side just below the armpit. This is done for beauty. The dart on the shoulder catches the eye more, but on the side, and even covered by the hand, it is not noticeable.
When creating a base pattern, we draw a chest dart on the shoulder only because it is more convenient to draw there from the point of view of constructing a drawing.
And after the drawing of the base pattern is ready, we very easily and simply transfer the dart from the shoulder area to the armpit area. Don’t think that you need to make new drawings for this. Nope, everything is simple here - like opening a carton of milk - one minute and that’s it.
Here, in the picture below I schematically depicted transferring the bust dart from the shoulder to the side seam under the arm.
Well, do you already feel how wiser you have become in these 15 minutes?))) Or there will be more... Let's continue our walk through the pattern and now let's get acquainted with the lines. Horizontal lines
CHEST LINE
The first acquaintance is the chest line. (It’s a beautiful dress, isn’t it? We’ll make it for you. Don’t even hesitate)
The bust line is the most remarkable line on the pattern. It is so convenient to focus on it when drawing a base pattern because:
- We know that we finish drawing the back waist dart at the bust line.
- We know that we finish drawing the front waist dart not reaching 4 cm from the chest line.
- We know that the shoulder dart is in the front - we finish drawing it at the chest line.
- We know that the lower edges of the armholes also follow the bust line.
Well, no, of course, you don’t know that yet. I will give all these simple rules when we start drawing. And now I just want you to know that when drawing many elements of a pattern, you can simply focus on the chest line (and there is no need to painstakingly put down these letter-number dots).
As you can see, there’s a lot of everything!! Therefore, go ahead - study, sew and enjoy life)))
WHAT TO DO NEXT - WITH THE PATTERN BASE? - you ask
And we will start sewing according to the base pattern of the TOP. Namely tops, T-shirts, tunics and then dresses.
You might ask, “Hey, why not just dresses?” I give the answer to this question in the first article of the series. So to be continued)))
Happy sewing!
Take the following measurements:
For example, I use the standard size 48, and you take measurements from your figure or from the figure of the person for whom you are going to sew this dress.
Name of measurements and symbols |
cm |
Taking measurements |
|---|---|---|
Half neck circumference |
Measure at the base of the neck. The measurement is recorded in half size. |
|
Half chest |
This measurement determines the size of the figure. The measuring tape should go along the protruding parts of the shoulder blades on the back and along the highest part of the chest. The measurement is recorded in half size. |
|
Half waist |
Measure at the narrowest point of the waist. The measurement is recorded in half size. |
|
Half hip circumference |
Measure horizontally along the most protruding points of the buttocks, taking into account the convexity of the abdomen. The measurement is recorded in half size. |
|
Measure from the seventh cervical vertebra to the waist line. The measurement is recorded in full. |
||
Measure by placing a measuring tape horizontally between the back corners of the armpits at the level of the protruding parts of the shoulder blades. The measurement is recorded in half size. |
||
Front length to waist |
Measure from the shoulder line at the base of the neck through the protruding point of the chest to the waist line. The measurement is recorded in full. |
|
Chest height |
Measure from the shoulder line at the base of the neck to the protruding point of the chest. (This measurement is performed simultaneously with the previous one.) |
|
Center of the chest |
Measure along a horizontal line between the protruding points of the chest. The measurement is recorded in half size. |
|
Shoulder length |
Measure along the shoulder line from the base of the neck to the shoulder joint. The measurement is recorded in full. |
|
Arm circumference |
Measure around the arm at the armpit. The measurement is recorded in full. |
|
Wrist circumference |
Measured at the wrist joint. The measurement is recorded in full. |
|
Sleeve length to elbow |
Measure from the shoulder joint to the elbow. The measurement is recorded in full. |
|
The length of the sleeve |
Measure from the shoulder joint to the hand. The measurement is recorded in full. |
|
Length of the product |
Measure from the seventh (protruding) cervical vertebra in the middle of the back to the required length. The measurement is recorded in full. |
|
Loose fit allowances: |
||
On the left side of the prepared sheet of paper, draw a vertical line on which to mark the length of the dress, in our case 110 cm, and put points A and H. Draw perpendicular lines through A and H to the right.
From A to the right, set aside half the chest circumference plus 5 cm. and place point B (48+5=53cm). Draw a line from B down to the intersection with the bottom line and place point H1.
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From A down, set the length of the back to the waist plus 0.5 cm and put T (38 + 0.5 = 38.5 cm). From T to the right, draw a line to the intersection with line BH1, at the intersection place point T1.
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From T down, set aside 1/2 of the length of the back to the waist and place B (38/2=19cm). From B to the right, draw a line, mark the intersection with BH1 as B1.
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From A to the right, set aside the width of the back plus 1.5 cm and put A1 (18 + 1.5 = 19.5 cm).
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From A1 to the right, set aside 1/4 of the half-circumference of the chest plus 0.5 cm. and put A2 (48:4+0.5=12.5). From A1 and A2 down, draw lines of arbitrary length.
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From A to the right, set aside 1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck plus 0.5 cm and place A3 (18:3+0.5=6.5). For figures with fat deposits in the area of the seventh cervical vertebra, the neck width is increased by 0.5 cm. From A3 up, set aside 1/10 of the half-circumference of the neck plus 0.8 cm and place A4 (18:10 + 0.8 = 2.6 cm). Divide the angle at point A3 in half and draw a line. On this line, set aside 1/10 of the half-circumference of the neck minus 0.3 cm and place A5, (18:10-0.3 = 1.5 cm). Connect the resulting points A4, A5 and A with a smooth curve.
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From A1, set down 2.5 cm for normal shoulders, 3.5 cm for sloping shoulders, 1.5 cm for high ones and place point P. Connect points A4 and P. From A4, set aside the shoulder length plus 2cm for the dart and put P1 (13.5+2=15.5cm). On the resulting line A4P1 from A4 to the right, set aside 4 cm and place point O. From O down, set aside 8 cm and place O1. From O to the right, set aside 2 cm and place O2. Connect points O1 and O2. From point O1 through point O2, set aside a value equal to the segment O.O1 - 8 cm (so that the sides of the dart are the same length) and put O3. Connect points O3 and P1.
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From P down, set aside ¼ of the half-circumference of the chest plus 7 cm. (for stooped figures plus 7.5 cm, for kinky figures plus 6.5 cm) and place point G (48: 4 + 7 = 19 cm). For obese women (size 58 and larger), the armhole depth is made 1 cm less. Through G to the left and right, draw a horizontal line until it intersects with AN, denote G1, with the line of the armhole width G2, with the line BH1, denote G3.
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From G up, set aside 1/3 of the distance PG plus 2 cm and place P2 (19: 3 + 2 = 8.3). Divide the angle at point G in half and set aside 1/10 of the armhole width plus 1.5 cm and place point P3 (12.5:10 + 1.5 = 2.8 cm), divide line GG2 in half and place G4. Connect points P1, P2, P3 and G4.
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From G2 up, set aside ¼ of the half-circumference of the chest plus 5 cm (for stooped figures plus 4.5 cm, for kinky figures plus 5.5 cm) and place P4 (48: 4 = 5 = 17 cm). For overweight women (size 58 and larger), the front armhole cut is 1cm smaller. From P4 to the left, set aside 1/10 of the half-circumference of the chest and put P5 (48:10 = 4.8 cm); from G2 up, set aside 1/3 of the size of the segment G2P4 and put P6 (17:3 = 5.7). Connect P5 and P6 with a dotted line, divide in half and set aside 1 cm to the right at a right angle. Divide the angle at point G2 in half and set aside 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 0.8 cm, put P7 (12.5:10+0.8=2.1 cm) connect P5,1,P6,P7,G4.
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From G3 up, set aside 1/2 of the half-circumference of the chest plus 1.5 cm and place B1 (48: 2 + 1.5 = 25.5 cm). For stooped figures, set aside 1/2 of the half-circumference of the chest plus 1 cm, for kinky figures plus 2 cm. For obese women (size 58 and larger), the neckline cut is 1 cm smaller. From G2 up, set aside the same amount and put B2. Connect B1 and B2. From B1 to the left, set aside 1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck plus 0.5cm and place B3 (18:3+0.5=6.5cm). From B1 down, set aside 1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck plus 2cm and place B4 (18:3+2=8cm). Connect B3 and B4 with a straight line and divide it in half. From B1 through the division point, draw a line on which set aside 1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck plus 1cm and place B5 (18:3+1=7cm). We connect points B3, B5 and B4 and get the line of the neck of the shelf.
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Center of the chest. From G3 to the left, set aside the measurement for the center of the chest and place G6. From G6, draw a line upward until it intersects with the line B1B2. At the intersection, place point B6.
From B6 down, set aside the chest height measurement and put G7
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From B6 down, set aside 1 cm and place B7. Connect points B3 and B7. Connect points B7 and P5 with a dotted line. Along line P5 B7 from point P5 to the right, set aside the length of the shoulder minus the value of the segment B3B7 minus 0.3 cm and put B8 (13.5-3-0.3 = 10.2 cm). From point G7 through point B8, draw a segment equal in length to segment G7B7 and place B9. Connect points B9 and P5.
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Start of construction. From G to the right, set aside 1/3 of the armhole width and place G5 (12.5:3 = 4.2 cm). draw a vertical line through point G5. At the intersection with the armhole line, place point P; at the intersections with the lines of the waist, hips and bottom, place points T2, B2, H2.
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Determination of the dart solution along the waist line. To the half-waist measurement, add 1cm for a loose fit (38+1=39), then subtract this value from the width of the dress along the TT1 line (53-39=14cm). We get a total dart solution of 14cm. The size of the front dart opening is equal to 0.25 of the total dart opening (14x0.25=3.5cm), the side 0.45 (14x0.45=6.3cm), the back 0.3 (14x0.3=4.2cm).
Determining the width of the dress along the hip line. Add 2cm to the hip circumference for a loose fit (53+2=55cm). From the resulting value, subtract the width of the dress along line BB1 (55-53=2cm). Distribute the result equally between the shelf and the back, i.e. 1cm each
Let's start building darts. Set aside 1 cm from B2 to the left and right and place B3 and B4. From T2 to the left and to the right, set aside half of the side dart solution (6.3:2 = 3.2) and place T3 and T4. Connect point P to points T3 and T4. Connect points T3 B4 and T4 B3 with a dotted line, divide it in half, set aside 0.5 cm from the division points to the side and connect them with a smooth curve to points B3 T4 and the other side with B4 T3.
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NOTE: If the semi-circumference of the hips plus the increase in loose fit is less than the width of the dress, the result will be negative. For example, if with a half-circumference of the chest of 48cm, the half-circumference of the hips is 50cm, then during the calculation we will get a negative value (50+2 – 53= –1cm). We distribute this value equally between the shelf and the back (-1: 2 = - 0.5 cm) and set aside B3 and B4 from point B2 to the left and right, 0.5 cm each. See figure "If the result is negative"
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If during the calculation you get zero as a result, then points B3 and B4 will coincide with point B2.
See figure "When the result is zero"
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From B1 down, set aside the length of the front waist plus 0.5 cm and put T5 (43 + 0.5 = 43.5 cm). Connect T4 and T5 with a smooth line.
From B1 down, set aside the value of the segment T1, T5 and place B5. Connect points B5 and B3 with a smooth line.
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Divide the distance G, G1 in half, mark the division point as G8. From G8, lower the line down until it intersects with line B, B1. At the intersections with the waist line and the hip line, place dots and label them T6 and B6. From T6 to the left and to the right, set aside half of the back dart solution (4.2:2 = 2.1) and place T7 and T8. From G8 down, set aside 1 cm; from B6 up, set aside 3 cm. Connect these points to T7 and T8.
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From G6 down, draw a line until it intersects with line B, B1. Mark the intersections with the lines of the waist and hips as T9 and B7. From T9 to the left and to the right, set aside half of the front dart solution (3.5:2 = 1.7) and place T10 and T11. From G7 down, and from B7 up, set aside 4 cm, place points and connect them with T10 and T11.
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Shelf bottom line. Draw lines from B3 and B4 down to the intersection of I with H, H1 and label H3 and H4. If the dress should be widened downwards from H3 and H4 to the left and right, set aside 3-7 cm and connect with B3 and B4. In the drawing these lines are shown as dotted lines. From H1 down, set aside the value of the segment T1T5 and place point H5. Connect points H3 and H5.
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All. The pattern for the base of the dress is ready.
This is the basic drawing on the basis of which you can design any style from the whole variety of dress styles.
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I wish you all creative inspiration!
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Have you decided to sew a dress, but don't know where to start? Let's try to help. We won’t say that this matter is very simple, but it’s not that complicated! Our advice will definitely help you deal with it. It’s not the Gods who burn the pots. So, let's begin.
HOW TO SEW A DRESS: WHERE TO START.
Model selection. For the first time, choose a simple dress model. Fewer connecting and decorative seams and details. Stop your gaze on laconic things. Beauty is in simplicity. Don't forget about bright and stylish accessories, they will complement the look.
Choice of fabric. The fabric must match the purpose of the dress and pay attention! easy to work with. That is, it does not cause additional difficulties when processing seams or ironing. Textured fabrics, pile fabrics, chiffon, natural silk... they are all very beautiful, but they will create a lot of unnecessary problems with the risk of throwing the failed masterpiece into the far corner. Let it be, for the first time, without a pattern that requires alignment at the seams.
Butt. It refers to all the additional materials that are required to sew your dress. These are adhesive (non-woven fabric, dublerin), edging, zippers (for the first time we advise you to choose models, preferably without it, because not every beginner can handle a zipper beautifully and correctly, and even more so a hidden one. Well , or practice on an unnecessary piece of fabric.), lining, accessories, threads, etc.
Pattern. How to sew a dress without a pattern? For a beginner, the task is difficult. Even if the dress consists of a rectangle, it is not some abstract rectangle. It is tied to a specific figure with the help of measurements, and to the dress model - with proportions and details. Therefore, a pattern is still needed!
Simple dress patterns:
For these simple dresses, the pattern is based on a rectangle, and is based on measurements taken from the figure. The dress is quite voluminous, oversize, the sizes shown in the figure correspond to 42-50 rubles. 
Look how original the dress is! Here the fabric print comes to the fore. The dress pattern is extremely simple. There is a rule of good taste - the brighter and more decorative the material, the simpler the style should be. 
For those who like a non-trivial approach to creating clothes, this solution will be interesting. The dress is a tunic made of rectangles sewn together. This simple dress looks very stylish if it is made of thin suede or suede-like material. 
READY DRESS PATTERNS.
If you have a ready-made dress pattern, then consider that you have already done half the work. A good pattern increases your chances of getting something new significantly! On our website we have clear patterns for easy to sew dress models for beginners and for those who have experience in sewing clothes.
Pay attention not only to the photo of the dress, but also to the technical drawing. It will help you more clearly understand how you can use a ready-made pattern, adapting it to your own look. It’s no secret that dresses made from the same pattern, but from different fabrics, look different.
For example, this is an absolutely wonderful dress.
The photo shows a model wearing an off-the-shoulder dress from Fendi. Fendi is a world famous Italian brand founded in 1925. He is considered the personification of taste and style. The brand's clothing is popular on the catwalk, in everyday life and on the set. At different times, the company's designers developed costumes for such famous films as La Traviata, Once Upon a Time in America, The Godfather and many others. We suggest sewing a similar jacket and trying on a Fendi look! 
You can buy a ready-made off-shoulder dress pattern here. You can print it in full size on a regular printer. Available sizes for the pattern are from 40 to 52.
Sewing a dress using a ready-made pattern and, especially, with a detailed description of the technology will not cause much difficulty even for a beginner. The main thing here is accuracy, accuracy and attentiveness. The result will not disappoint you, because this model is very relevant not only in summer, it can be sewn from elegant fabric, resulting in a beautiful evening dress.
The level of complexity of this model is suitable for a beginner.
Cut details:
From the main material:
1. Front – 1 piece
2. Back - 1 piece
3. Lower back - 1 piece
4. Lower part of the front - 1 piece
5. Sleeve – 2 parts
6. Frill at the bottom of the sleeve – 2 parts
7. Burlap pocket - 4 parts
8. Neck frill - 1 piece
When cutting, it is necessary to add seam allowances of 1.5 cm to the details. The average fabric consumption for such a dress is 2.5 m (with a width of 140 cm). Recommended fabrics are summer, easily draped light fabrics made of cotton, viscose, silk and their combinations (it is advisable to decate natural fabrics (wet them in water) before cutting, as the dimensions may change).
Layout example: 
You will also need approximately 2.0-2.5 m of elastic band (elastic band).
Sewing sequence:
1. Fold the back parts with the shelf right sides inward and, aligning the cuts, stitch along the side seams. Overcast the allowances and iron them towards the front part.
2. Also stitch the side sections of the sleeves. Iron and overcast seam allowances.
3. Fold the sleeves with the front and back along the armhole lines. Pre-baste and then stitch. Cut seam allowances to 1cm and overcast.
4. Sew the ruffle details of the bottom of the sleeves and neckline into a ring, iron the allowances once. Iron the pieces in half.
5. “Place” the finished part of the neck frill onto the neck of the dress and, aligning the sections, sew with a 1.5 cm seam (Fig. 1, line 1). Overcast the allowances together and iron onto the frill piece. Then stitch the seam allowance onto the frill piece, 1.2 cm away from the seam (Fig. 1, line 2). Between the line and the seam you get a drawstring for the elastic. Do not close the stitch into the ring, leave a distance of 2.5 - 3 cm long to insert the elastic.
6. Measure the circumference of the shoulders (each individual), subtract 4-5 cm for the elasticity of the elastic. Thread it through the drawstring and close the stitching into a ring.
7. Sew a frill on the sleeves according to the principle of the neckline. 
Picture 1
8. Place the pocket burlap pieces face down on the front side of the front panel and the front side of the back panel, align the cuts and stitch them with a 1 cm wide seam (Fig. 2, lines 1 and 1`) so that the pocket lining overlaps the line limiting the length of the entrance to the pocket, the width of the seam of the burlap pocket. The seams are overcast and pressed onto the pocket burlap. 
Figure 2
The lower section of the skirt is processed with a narrow (0.7 - 1.2 cm) hem seam. Iron the seam.
9. Fold the shelf and back parts with the right sides inward, aligning the cuts, and connect along the shoulder seams.
10. Sew the side seams of the skirt with a seam 1.5 cm wide, while simultaneously sewing the burlap pockets with tacks at the beginning and end of the pocket (Fig. 2, line 2). The sections are overcast and the pocket is ironed.
11. Sew the bodice with the skirt (Fig. 3, line 1). Cut seam allowance to 1cm and overcast.
12. Cut the elastic, measuring around the waist. Sew into a ring with a 1.5-2cm overlay seam. Sew on the seam reserve (Figure 3, line 2). 
Figure 3
A fitted knitted dress with drapery is surprisingly easy to sew and looks very stylish. Here you need to make the right choice with the choice of fabric. Let the knitwear not be too liquid, but still softly draping and of good quality, so that pilling does not form when worn (the base should be natural threads).
2 IN 1: PATTERN OF A DRESS AND TOP WITH A SWING NECKLINE (SIZE 40-60)
Details of the cut of the dress (A) and top (B):
Shelf – 1 piece
Back – 1 piece (with fold)
When cutting, add seam allowances of 0.7 cm, along the neckline and armholes - 1.2 cm, along the hem line - 2 cm.
The average fabric consumption is 1.5 m for a dress, 0.85 m for a top (with a width of 140 cm).
An example layout for a dress is shown on the left, for a top - on the right 
Sewing sequence:
1. Place double lines on the front along the side seam between control marks A and B, C and D, E and F (for a top - only between marks E and F) at a distance of 0.5 cm from each other, the first line along the allowances side seam, and the second along the shelf, so that they are located on both sides of the side seam line of the finished product. Pull these stitches with threads to the lengths indicated on the pattern, tie the ends of the threads.
*** If desired, you can place small folds along the side seam instead of gathering
2. Place double lines on the front along the shoulder seams from the neckline to the G marks at a distance of 0.5 cm from each other, the first line along the shoulder seam allowances, and the second along the front, so that they are located on both sides of the shoulder line seam of the finished product. Pull these stitches together with threads to a length equal to the length of the shoulder sections of the back between the G marks and the neckline, tie the ends of the threads.
***If desired, you can place small folds along the shoulder seam instead of gathering
3. Align the front and back along the shoulder seams, folding right sides together. Join with a stitch-overlock stitch (or simply machine stitch and then overcast). Stitching is done from the back. Remove the auxiliary stitches that tightened the assembly. Press the seam allowance to the back.
4. Process the armholes of the product. To do this, fold the seam allowances in the armhole area (between the control marks), and then sew with a hem seam with an open or closed cut (in the first case, pre-overcast).
5. Fold the front and back with right sides together, aligning along the left side seam (no gathers). Baste and then join with a seam-overlock stitch (or sew by machine, then overcast). Press the seam allowance.
6. Fold the shelf and back with right sides together, aligning along the right side seam (with gathers), observing the alignment of the control marks on the shelf and back. Baste and then join with a seam-overlock stitch (or sew by machine, then overcast). The stitching is done from the back side. The gathering should be located at the bottom, otherwise, when stitching, the foot may displace the fabric, which may interfere with the uniformity of the gathering. Remove the auxiliary stitches that tightened the assembly. Press the seam allowance.
7. Fold the neckline of the product and finish it with a hem seam with a closed cut.
8. Fold the bottom of the product and sew it with a hem seam with an open or closed cut (in the first case, pre-overcast).
HOW TO SEW A DRESS WITHOUT HAVING A READY PATTERN.
Making a pattern for it is not difficult even for a beginner. Let's take a closer look.
For modeling you will need a base pattern of a semi-adjacent silhouette. You can create it using any pattern-making method. Of course, this will take up a lot of your time, but if you plan to continue sewing for yourself in the future, then you need such a foundation; you simply cannot do without it. By the way, it is also recommended to sew a base sampler from an unnecessary piece of fabric, after trying it on, take into account all the errors in the construction by adjusting the base pattern. 
The styling is shown based on a semi-fitted silhouette specifically to preserve the bust dart.
- the side seams must be straightened,
— we move the chest dart from the shoulder line to the side seam line, under the armhole. To do this, cut along the intended line from the side seam to the top of the dart, not reaching a couple of mm, close the dart at the shoulder and it will open under the armhole. Read more about transferring recesses here. The dart needs to be stitched 2 cm short of the center of the chest, reducing it to nothing. Those. reduce the length of the undercut by 2 cm.
If your figure allows you to make a dress with a more flattened silhouette, then you can use a base pattern with a straight silhouette, then modeling will not be needed at all.
This dress is not difficult to sew, but finishing will require time and perseverance. You can make the braid ala Chanel, which adds a special chic to the look, with your own hands. Look at the photo. The work is certainly painstaking, but creative. And what is the result! 
By the way, having a basic pattern, you can also sew yourself a basic dress, which, as you know, is necessary in any woman’s wardrobe. By slightly changing the neckline or armhole, making the dress cut at the waist, adding a sleeve, you will get a model to your liking.
Now let's change the pattern a little. For example, let’s create raised lines, deepen and widen the neckline, as in the first photo.
1 step. Let's move the chest and shoulder darts into the armhole. To do this, we will outline the relief lines running from the armhole lines, through the waist darts to the bottom of the dress. Let's cut and open the grooves in the armholes of the back and front. Read more about the translation of grooves in this article.
Step 2. Let's adjust the relief lines more smoothly. Let's lengthen and narrow the dress along the side seams. Let's add a slot. Slot width 4 cm.
23:36 Unknown 69 Comments
Hello, dear readers!
When sewing simple clothes, you can do without a pattern; for clothes with complex styles, you will already need a pattern - a paper template from which fabric parts are cut out. If you choose between a finished pattern and a design drawing, I would recommend the second option.
Even if you are new to sewing, pattern making will help you quickly understand and master the principles of clothing design. In addition, the pattern is made according to your individual measurements, which means that the future product will fit well on your figure; ready-made patterns do not guarantee such a result, since each of us has our own anatomical features of the figure. And lastly, pattern making is an interesting and exciting process!
In this article, we will learn how to build a basic pattern for a dress using Tatyana Roslyakova’s method.
In the last article, we learned how to take measurements that we will need for a dress pattern. Let me remind you that the design drawing is made only for half of the figure, so measurements of volume and width are recorded in half size. Below is a table in which I have written my measurements as an example. Using these standards, I will make calculations, and you must substitute your data.
Name of measurements and symbols | cm |
|---|---|
Half neck circumference (Ssh) | |
Half chest circumference (Сг) | 40,5 |
Half waist (St) | |
Half hip circumference (Sb) | 44.5 |
Back length to waist (Lts) | |
Back Width (Shs) | 16,5 |
Front length to waist (Dtp) | |
Chest Height (Vg) | |
Center of the chest (CG) | |
Shoulder Length (Dp) | |
Product length (Di) |
In addition to measurements, we will need allowances for loose fit (FO). These increases are added to almost all measurements when drawing a structure; they are needed for freedom of movement and breathing. Depending on the silhouette of the product, the allowance for a loose fit varies in size. The allowances also differ for styles of clothing (trousers, jackets, coats, etc.), moreover, there are separate allowances for different types of fabrics. Different methods for creating patterns indicate different increases for the same silhouettes and styles, so it is very important to pay attention to the increases that are indicated in the method. But for now we are learning to build the basis of the dress, so I offer you two silhouettes: fitted and semi-fitted with the following increases:
Please note that the increases shown in the table are added entirely to half measurements. That is, if the chest girth measurement is 81 cm, then the half chest girth = 40.5 cm; for a close-fitting silhouette, an increase in loose fit of 3 cm is added to 40.5 cm, this means that the future product along the chest line will be 6 cm larger. In addition, the increase along the chest line is distributed among the pattern pieces in the following ratio:
back width - 30%
shelf width - 20%
Armhole width - 50%.
distribution of increase along the chest line
I will indicate all allowances for loose fit to these and other measurements in the formulas when creating the pattern. In this article we will build a dress with a fitted silhouette.Let's start with the drawing . It is necessary to prepare a sheet of paper, the length of which should be 10-15 cm greater than the length of the future dress. If you have never made patterns before, I would advise you to make all the drawings on graph paper in a roll, which can be purchased at an office supply store. It's a pleasure to draw on this paper! The drawings are accurate and smooth. Dress length . In the upper left corner of a sheet of paper, draw a right angle with its vertex at point P, departing 5 cm from the top edge. From point P down in a straight line we put aside a value equal to the length of the dress and put a point H (segment PH = Di = 85 cm).
- the size of the front dart opening = 0.25 of the total dart opening (13.5 x 0.25 = 3.4 cm),
- side tuck opening size = 0.45 of the total opening (13.5 x 0.45 = 6 cm),
- back tuck opening size = 0.3 of the total opening (13.5 x 0.3 = 4.1 cm)
Shelf
- front part of the product
Neck
- neckline
Armhole
- cutout for sleeves (cut from shoulder to side seams to connect sleeves to bodice)
Dart
- excess fabric tucked into the seam. Using darts, the necessary shapes are given to the product.
In addition to the dress, you can create a pattern for a single-seam set-in sleeve.
