In this article you will learn how to create a pattern for the base of a dress.
After reading this article, you will learn step by step how to build a pattern for the base of a dress based on the measurements taken for a specific figure.
For example, I use the standard size 48, and you take measurements from your figure or from the figure of the person for whom you are going to sew this dress.
Name of measurements and symbols | cm | Taking measurements |
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Half neck circumference | Measure at the base of the neck. The measurement is recorded in half size. |
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Half chest | This measurement determines the size of the figure. The measuring tape should go along the protruding parts of the shoulder blades on the back and along the highest part of the chest. The measurement is recorded in half size. |
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Half waist | Measure at the narrowest point of the waist. The measurement is recorded in half size. |
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Half hip circumference | Measure horizontally along the most protruding points of the buttocks, taking into account the convexity of the abdomen. The measurement is recorded in half size. |
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Back length to waist | Measure from the seventh cervical vertebra to the waist line. The measurement is recorded in full. |
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Back width | Measure by placing a measuring tape horizontally between the back corners of the armpits at the level of the protruding parts of the shoulder blades. The measurement is recorded in half size. |
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Front length to waist | Measure from the shoulder line at the base of the neck through the protruding point of the chest to the waist line. The measurement is recorded in full. |
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Chest height | Measure from the shoulder line at the base of the neck to the protruding point of the chest. (This measurement is performed simultaneously with the previous one.) The measurement is recorded in full. |
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Center of the chest | Measure along a horizontal line between the protruding points of the chest. The measurement is recorded in half size. |
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Shoulder length | Measure along the shoulder line from the base of the neck to the shoulder joint. The measurement is recorded in full. |
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Arm circumference | Measure around the arm at the armpit. The measurement is recorded in full. |
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Wrist circumference | Measured at the wrist joint. The measurement is recorded in full. |
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Sleeve length to elbow | Measure from the shoulder joint to the elbow. The measurement is recorded in full. |
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The length of the sleeve | Measure from the shoulder joint to the hand. The measurement is recorded in full. |
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Length of the product | Measure from the seventh (protruding) cervical vertebra in the middle of the back to the required length. The measurement is recorded in full. |
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Loose fit allowances: along the chest line 5cm, along the waist line 1cm, along the hip line 2cm. |
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On the left side of the prepared sheet of paper, draw a vertical line on which to mark the length of the dress, in our case 110 cm, and put points A and H. Draw perpendicular lines through A and H to the right.
Dress width. From A to the right, set aside half the chest circumference plus 5 cm. and place point B (48+5=53cm). Draw a line from B down to the intersection with the bottom line and place point H1.
Back length to waist. From A down, set the length of the back to the waist plus 0.5 cm and put T (38 + 0.5 = 38.5 cm). From T to the right, draw a line to the intersection with line BH1, at the intersection place point T1.
Hip line. From T down, set aside 1/2 of the length of the back to the waist and place B (38/2=19cm). From B to the right, draw a line, mark the intersection with BH1 as B1.
Back width. From A to the right, set aside the width of the back plus 1.5 cm and put A1 (18 + 1.5 = 19.5 cm).
Armhole width. From A1 to the right, set aside 1/4 of the half-circumference of the chest plus 0.5 cm. and put A2 (48:4+0.5=12.5). From A1 and A2 down, draw lines of arbitrary length.
Back neck cut. From A to the right, set aside 1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck plus 0.5 cm and place A3 (18:3+0.5=6.5). For figures with fat deposits in the area of the seventh cervical vertebra, the neck width is increased by 0.5 cm. From A3 up, set aside 1/10 of the half-circumference of the neck plus 0.8 cm and place A4 (18:10 + 0.8 = 2.6 cm). Divide the angle at point A3 in half and draw a line. On this line, set aside 1/10 of the half-circumference of the neck minus 0.3 cm and place A5, (18:10-0.3 = 1.5 cm). Connect the resulting points A4, A5 and A with a smooth curve.
Shoulder cut. From A1, set down 2.5 cm for normal shoulders, 3.5 cm for sloping shoulders, 1.5 cm for high ones and place point P. Connect points A4 and P.
From A4, set aside the shoulder length plus 2cm for the dart and put P1 (13.5+2=15.5cm). On the resulting line A4P1 from A4 to the right, set aside 4 cm and place point O.
From O downwards, set aside 8cm and place O1. From O to the right, set aside 2 cm and place O2. Connect points O1 and O2.
From point O1 through point O2, set aside a value equal to the segment O, O1 (so that the sides of the dart are the same length) and place O3. Connect points O3 and P1.
Armhole depth. From P down, set aside ¼ of the half-circumference of the chest plus 7cm. (for stooped figures plus 7.5 cm, for kinky figures plus 6.5 cm) and place point G (48: 4 + 7 = 19 cm). For obese women (size 58 and larger), the armhole depth is made 1 cm less. Through G to the left and right, draw a horizontal line until it intersects with AN, denote G1, with the line of the armhole width G2, with the line BH1, denote G3.
Back armhole cut. From G up, set aside 1/3 of the distance PG plus 2 cm and place P2 (19: 3 + 2 = 8.3). Divide the angle at point G in half and set aside 1/10 of the armhole width plus 1.5 cm and place point P3 (12.5:10 + 1.5 = 2.8 cm), divide line GG2 in half and place G4. Connect points P1, P2, P3 and G4.
Front armhole cut. From G2 up, set aside ¼ of the half-circumference of the chest plus 5 cm (for stooped figures plus 4.5 cm, for kinky figures plus 5.5 cm) and place P4 (48: 4 + 5 = 17 cm). For overweight women (size 58 and larger), the front armhole cut is 1cm smaller. From P4 to the left, set aside 1/10 of the half-circumference of the chest and place P5 (48:10 = 4.8 cm); from G2 up, set aside 1/3 of the size of the segment G2P4 and place P6 (17:3 = 5.7). Connect P5 and P6 with a dotted line, divide in half and set aside 1 cm to the right at a right angle. Divide the angle at point G2 in half and set aside 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 0.8 cm, put P7 (12.5:10+0.8=2.1 cm) connect P5,1,P6,P7,G4.
Shelf neck cut. From G3 up, set aside 1/2 of the half-circumference of the chest plus 1.5 cm and place B1 (48: 2 + 1.5 = 25.5 cm). For stooped figures, set aside 1/2 of the half-circumference of the chest plus 1cm, for kinky figures plus 2cm. For obese women (size 58 and larger), the neckline cut is 1 cm smaller. From G2 up, set aside the same amount and put B2. Connect B1 and B2. From B1 to the left, set aside 1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck plus 0.5cm and place B3 (18:3+0.5=6.5cm). From B1 down, set aside 1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck plus 2cm and place B4 (18:3+2=8cm). Connect B3 and B4 with a straight line and divide it in half. From B1 through the division point, draw a line on which set aside 1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck plus 1cm and place B5 (18:3+1=7cm). We connect points B3, B5 and B4 and get the line of the neck of the shelf.
Center of the chest. From G3 to the left, set aside the measurement for the center of the chest and place G6. From G6, draw a line upward until it intersects with the line B1B2. At the intersection, place point B6.
High point of the chest. From B6 down, set aside the chest height measurement and put G7
Shoulder cut and bust line. From B6 down, set aside 1 cm and place B7. Connect points B3 and B7. Connect points B7 and P5 with a dotted line. Along line P5 B7 from point P5 to the right, set aside the length of the shoulder minus the value of the segment B3B7 minus 0.3 cm and put B8 (13.5-3-0.3 = 10.2 cm). From point G7 through point B8, draw a segment equal in length to segment G7B7 and place B9. Connect points B9 and P5.
Determining the side seam line. Start of construction. From G to the right, set aside 1/3 of the armhole width and place G5 (12.5:3 = 4.2 cm). draw a vertical line through point G5. At the intersection with the armhole line, place point P; at the intersections with the lines of the waist, hips and bottom, place points T2, B2, H2.
Determination of the dart solution along the waist line. To the half-waist measurement, add an allowance for a loose fit of 1cm (38+1=39), then subtract this value from the width of the dress along the TT1 line (53-39=14cm). We get a total dart solution of 14 cm. The size of the front dart opening is equal to 0.25 of the total dart opening (14x0.25=3.5cm), the side 0.45 (14x0.45=6.3cm), the back 0.3 (14x0.3=4.2cm).
Determining the width of the dress along the hip line. Add 2cm to the hip circumference for a loose fit (53+2=55cm). From the resulting value, subtract the width of the dress along line BB1 (55-53=2cm). Distribute the result equally between the shelf and the back, i.e. 1cm each
Let's start building darts. Set aside 1 cm from B2 to the left and right and place B3 and B4. From T2 to the left and to the right, set aside half of the side dart solution (6.3:2 = 3.2) and place T3 and T4. Connect point P to points T3 and T4. Connect points T3 B4 and T4 B3 with a dotted line, divide it in half, set aside 0.5 cm from the division points to the side and connect them with a smooth curve to points B3 T4 and the other side with B4 T3.
NOTE: If the semi-circumference of the hips plus the loose fitting allowance is less than the width of the dress, the result will be negative. For example, if with a half-circumference of the chest of 48cm, the half-circumference of the hips is 50cm, then during the calculation we will get a negative value (50+2 – 53= –1cm). We distribute this value equally between the shelf and the back (-1: 2 = - 0.5 cm) and set aside B3 and B4 from point B2 to the left and right, 0.5 cm each. See figure "If the result is negative"
If during the calculation you get zero as a result, then points B3 and B4 will coincide with point B2.
See figure "When the result is zero"
Front waist line. From B1 down, set aside the length of the front waist plus 0.5 cm and put T5 (43 + 0.5 = 43.5 cm). Connect T4 and T5 with a smooth line.
Hip line. From B1 down, set aside the value of the segment T1, T5 and place B5. Connect points B5 and B3 with a smooth line.
Dart on the back. Divide the distance G, G1 in half, mark the division point as G8. From G8, lower the line down until it intersects with line B, B1. At the intersections with the waist line and the hip line, place dots and label them T6 and B6. From T6 to the left and to the right, set aside half of the back dart solution (4.2:2 = 2.1) and place T7 and T8. From G8 down, set aside 1 cm; from B6 up, set aside 3 cm. Connect these points to T7 and T8.
Dart on the shelf. From G6 down, draw a line until it intersects with line B, B1. Mark the intersections with the lines of the waist and hips as T9 and B7. From T9 to the left and to the right, set aside half of the front dart solution (3.5:2 = 1.7) and place T10 and T11. From G7 down, and from B7 up, set aside 4 cm, place points and connect them with T10 and T11.
Shelf bottom line. Draw lines from B3 and B4 down to the intersection of I with H, H1 and label H3 and H4. If the dress should be widened downwards from H3 and H4 to the left and right, set aside 3-7 cm and connect with B3 and B4. In the drawing these lines are shown as dotted lines. From H1 down, set aside the value of the segment T1T5 and place point H5. Connect points H3 and H5.
All. The pattern for the base of the dress is ready.
This is the basic drawing on the basis of which you can design any style from the whole variety of dress styles.
Cutting details
You can start creating a base pattern in sizes 44-58 for a dress, blouse or jacket. I have been using this method for 18 years now, its main advantages are that the pattern is easy, quick, logical, and very accurate. 7 minutes is enough for me, along with calculations. When trying on, a small adjustment of volume and length is sufficient.
The principle is the same, only the allowances for a loose fit differ. For the base pattern of a dress and blouse, 6 cm is enough, for a jacket with a fitted silhouette - 8 cm, for a coat, depending on the style, 10-16.
Basic pattern 44-58 sizes for a dress, blouse, jacket.
It’s better to explain this using a specific example, then we will learn how to build a base pattern for a blouse or dress of size 48.
How to do it more precisely in the next article.
Our pattern will be up to the hip line. For a dress with a straight silhouette, it is enough to extend it to the required length.
Basic measurements.
Back measurements.
Dst (back length to waist) – 41
Shsp (back width) – 35
Shoulder width – 12
Front measurements.
Dpt (front length to waist) – 43.5
VH (chest height) – 26.5
CG (centre of chest) – 18
Vhk (oblique chest height) – 24
SH (chest width) – 37
Gp (armhole depth) – 20
Necessary preliminary calculations.
The peculiarity of this method is that the main measurement when constructing a base pattern is chest circumference. A control line is drawn through the front OG point, and all other measurements are taken, based on calculations, relative to this line.
We calculate the OG for the base pattern: add an allowance for a loose fit to the OG measurement. In our example - 6 cm. Then divide in half.
OG = 96 + 6 = 102: 2 = 51: 2 = 25.5
According to the rules for constructing a pattern, the basis is, and in order for the product to look beautiful on the figure, the front pattern must be wider than the back pattern. Therefore, to the resulting measurement of 25.5, for the front half, add 0.5, and subtract 0.5 for the back.
Before: 25.5 + 0.5 = 26
Back: 25.5 – 0.5 = 25
Calculation of darts at the waist line.
In order to determine the size of the side darts, front and back, add 3-4 cm to the waist circumference and divide in half: FROM = 75 + 3 = 78: 2 = 39
Then subtract the resulting figure from half the exhaust gas value with an allowance:
(96 + 6) : 2 = 51 – 39 = 12.
12 cm – the sum of all darts. There are 4 of them on the pattern: two side darts, front and back darts.
3 cm - the size of each dart and side seam deflection from the auxiliary line.
Calculation of the hip line.
3-4 cm is added to the hip circumference for a loose fit: 101 + 3 = 104: 2 = 52.
The difference between half the OB with allowances and half the OG with allowances is plotted from the control line. If the hips are narrow, then the side line of the front will be shifted to the right, if they are wide, to the left.
In our example, the calculated half OG = 51, and half OB = 52. The difference is only a centimeter. Therefore, when constructing the front, we will need to set aside 0.5 cm to the left of the control line, and when constructing the back, to the right.
52 - 51 = 1: 2 = 0,5
We build a grid - the main lines of the base pattern.
It is more convenient to create a pattern on tracing paper. If all the measurements are taken accurately and the calculations are made correctly, then you will get the same beautiful and proportional pattern as in the top collage.
From point 1 (upper right corner) draw vertical and horizontal lines. On the vertical line we lay down the accident (the length of the front to the waist). Draw a horizontal waist line.
The hip line is located 18-22 cm lower, depending on height. On average, I draw a line at a distance of 20 cm, both when creating patterns for a dress or jacket, and when creating a skirt pattern.
The chest line is drawn from the waist line at a distance calculated as follows:
From the armhole depth measurement (DPR), 1.5-2 cm is deducted for a sleeveless dress or top, 2-2.5 cm for a dress with a single-seam sleeve, 2.5-3 cm for a fitted jacket, 3-7 cm for coat, depending on the sleeve style.
The value of this measurement for size 48 is 19-23 cm, in our example – 20 cm.
Gpr = 20 – 2 = 18 cm. Set aside 18 cm from the waist line up and draw a horizontal chest line.
Construction of the front pattern.
From the top corner, from point 1, set aside 7.5 cm to the left and down for sizes 46-48. For 50-56 – 8 cm. This value is half the width of the neck. It can be deepened or expanded during modeling. Place point 2.
From point 2 to the left, measure 9 cm on the vertical line of the pattern grid, place point 3, at a distance of 3 cm down from it, place point 4, connect points 2 and 4 - this is the slope of the shoulder line. Set aside 7-8 cm on the line and place point 5.
On the chest line, set aside 26 cm from the center of the front to the left (half of the OG + 0.5 cm) and place a point 6. Draw a vertical line until it intersects with the hip line. Place point 7 on the waist line, and point 8 on the hip line.
We are building the upper front.
From point 5 on the shoulder line we set aside a distance equal to the size of the chest dart.
The size of the chest dart for sizes 42-60.
The first number is the OG without allowances, the second is the dart size.
82 – 84 cm – 6.5 cm
88 – 90 cm – 7.5 cm
95 - 96 cm – 8.5 cm
100 cm – 9.5 cm
104 – 105 cm – 11 cm
110 – 112 cm – 12.5 cm
122 – 125 cm – 15 cm
For size 48, from point 5, continuing the shoulder line, set aside the width of the chest dart to the left 8.5 cm. Place point 9.
From point 2 down, set aside the VG and place the CG point. The distance from it to the line of the middle front is half the distance of the measurement of the center of the chest (CH) with an allowance of 1 - 2 cm:
(18 + 1) = 19: 2 = 9.5 cm
From this point down, draw a vertical line - the center of the front dart. Its width is, for our example, 3 cm. Set aside 1.5 cm on both sides of the line. Connect the CG point and the dart points.
Draw a chest dart.
To do this, connect points 5 and 9 to the CG point.
Chest and shoulder width lines.
In order to carry them out and set aside the measured measurements, we fold the tracing paper with the pattern as in the collage picture: both lines of the chest dart should coincide. Secure the dart with pins.
Then continue the shoulder line and place a point corresponding to the measured measurement: 12 cm
We draw a line for the width of the chest: approximately divide the distance of the height of the front to the waist (Vpt) in half, and draw it 2 cm higher. Set aside a measurement equal to (WG + 1) : 2 = 18. If you are not sure that the front or back width measurements are measured correctly, add 2 cm - you will trim off the excess allowance during the fitting.
The VHA measurement (oblique chest height) is a control measure. Everyone's shoulder angle is different. For sloping shoulders, you will need to draw the shoulder line lower than the drawn line, in accordance with the VGK measurement, and for sports-type figures - higher.
After you have specified the width and slope of the shoulder line, chest width, straighten the pattern and draw the front armhole line through the shoulder points, chest width and point 6.
Side darts.
The side seams of the front and back patterns must completely match, both in curve and length. The size of the side dart, according to our calculations, is 3 cm. Set them aside from the control line, from point 7 to the right.
Hip line.
For our example, according to calculations, it is necessary to move only 0.5 cm to the left of the control line.
Connect all the resulting points: on the chest, waist and hips. The construction of the front pattern is now complete.
Back pattern.
It's much easier to build. On the fold line of the pattern we put aside, from the waist line up, a measurement equal to the length of the back (Dst) = 41 cm
Just as when constructing the front pattern, set aside the neck width, 7.5 cm for size 48, only to the right - point 10.
From the resulting point we measure 9 cm to the right and 2.5 cm down. Draw a shoulder line and set aside the measured measurement - 12 cm.
The depth of the neckline cut along the back is usually 2 – 2.5 cm. From point 10 to the left, draw a smooth line for the back neckline.
To create a pattern for full figures, I advised measuring an additional measurement - the height of the back from the 7th vertebra to the waist. In principle, you can simply draw a deeper neck line - 3 cm.
On the chest line, set aside the calculated measurement: Back OG (OG + 6): 2) – 0.5 cm = 25 cm Draw a reference line down. Along the waist line, immediately set aside the size of the side dart - 3 cm
Back width line.
Divide the distance between the shoulder line and the OG line of the back in half, and draw 1 cm lower, closer to the OG line. In our example, ShSp = 35 cm
(35 + 2) : 2 = 18.5 cm
Back dart.
Divide the calculated back measurement in half, then set the resulting figure minus 0.5-1 cm from the fold line - this way the dart looks more neat, and the product: a blouse, dress or jacket, fits the back more softly. Dart size – 3 cm
Sometimes, when there is a very noticeable kink in the back, I change the size of the front and back darts. I reduce the front ones by 0.5-1 cm, and increase them on the back.
On the hip line to the right, set aside the calculated value, the same as when constructing the front pattern. In our example, this is 0.5 cm. Draw a side seam line, gently rounding it at the waist line.
In order to adjust the created base pattern, buy a meter of inexpensive cotton fabric - this will be enough for both the main pattern and the pattern for a short single-seam sleeve.
Products with a central seam on the back: dresses and jackets, are easier to adjust during fitting, they fit the figure more accurately and are slimming, since the total volume is “broken” into vertical components.
You can cut out the back with a central seam - the pattern will be more accurate. In order not to change the volume along the waistline, reduce the back dart by 1 cm, and make a smooth bend of 1 cm on the central seam line
When cutting out the front halves of the base pattern, add an allowance of 2.5-3 cm along the middle line, so that during fitting it is more convenient to fix the volume with pins. On the right shelf, fold it to the wrong side and baste it, and on the left shelf, draw or baste the middle line.
When trying on, secure the shelves exactly along these lines. If the cut base is wide or narrow, adjust the volume using side seams and darts.
When basting, it is important to accurately align the notches on the waist line: the front and back should not be shifted relative to each other. If the front half of the product is shifted downwards, oblique creases are formed from the side seam in the direction from bottom to top. If it is shifted upward, the creases can be both on the back and on the shelf in the chest area.
If the measurements are taken accurately and the base pattern is constructed correctly, then you can do the fitting quickly, without significant changes. Read about how to model a dress, jacket or vest using this pattern in the following articles.
The dress base pattern is a tool with which you can model a dress of absolutely any style. This article provides step-by-step instructions on how to build a basic pattern, make a sleeve model, and also provides an example of modeling based on the received drawings.
Dress measurements
To create a pattern you will need:
- length of the product;
- back length to waist;
- shoulder length;
- semi-girth around the neck;
- half-circumference above the chest (removable over the chest);
- half chest circumference;
- semi-circumference at the waist;
- semi-circumference at the hips;
- armhole height size.
Constructing a pattern for the base of the dress
This is what the drawing itself looks like, to which these instructions are attached. Focus on it if necessary.
Pattern formulas
- To calculate the back width: 1/8 chest circumference +5.5 cm (for all sizes).
- To calculate the armhole width: 1/8 chest circumference - 1.5 cm (for all sizes).
- To calculate chest width: 1/4 chest circumference - 4 cm (for all sizes).
There is also a formula for calculating the depth of the armhole, but the data obtained through it is in most cases inaccurate. Therefore, if you want the dress to fit like a glove, then measure the armhole yourself, without using additional calculations.
Before you start building a dress, you need to understand what silhouette it will be: loose, fitted or tight. Based on this, you need to decide on the allowance for freedom of fit. Look at the table and take the data that suits you. However, it is worth remembering that for a very tight dress you need to choose elastic fabrics that have a lot of stretch. It is impossible to obtain a similar silhouette from non-stretchy materials.
- Draw a rectangle ABDC, where the height is the length of the product, and the width is the half-bust circumference + increase in fit. For example, the half-chest circumference is 42 cm, then if you want to sew an outfit with a semi-fitting silhouette, you need to take an increase of 1.5-2 cm: 42+2=44 cm. And so on.
- From point A, measure down the height of the armhole, not forgetting to add an increase in freedom of fit, mark the place with point G. From it, check the straight line until it touches side BC and place G1.
- From point G to the right side, measure the width of the back, adding an increase for fit according to the table. From the resulting mark to the right, measure the width of the armhole. Draw perpendiculars to AB.
- Divide the armhole in half. From there, draw a straight line down to the very base. This is the side line.
- Divide each of the resulting two armhole lines into 4 equal segments, measuring crosses.
- From point A to the right side, measure: 1/3 of the half-circumference along the neck + 0.5 cm, and raise the point at a right angle by 2 cm.
- Points A and 2 are smoothly connected by a curved line, forming the back neckline.
- On the back armhole line, where the crosses were marked, measure down 1 cm from the top if the shoulders are straight, or 2 cm if they are sloping. From point 2 (neck) through mark 1 (2), draw a straight line equal to the shoulder line, taking into account an increase of 0.5 cm.
- From the bottom corner of the armhole, measure 2 cm at a right angle and indicate point 2.
- Draw the armhole, passing through: the shoulder point, the second and third auxiliary marks, point 2 and the top of the side line.
- Now move to the front of the dress. From point G1 up, draw a straight line: 1/2 of the half-circumference along the chest (without increments) + 0.5 cm. Set point W. From the last to the left, draw a line, while increasing the auxiliary line of the armhole so that the last and the line from point W are connected .
- From point W to the left, measure: 1/3 of the half-circumference along the neck + 0.5 cm (draw the same measurement from point W to the inside of the pattern, dividing the angle into equal parts). Measure 4 cm from the marked point. Measure 1 cm from mark 4 down and connect to the edge of the neck.
- From point W downwards, measure: 1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck + 1.5 cm. Connect the three marks with a curved smooth line, outlining the front neckline.
- From point 1 (shoulder of the shelf), draw a straight line down to chest level, shifting the end point 1 cm to the right. This is the right side of the bust dart.
- Divide the drawn line equally, and from the center, at a right angle, draw the difference between the half-circumferences along the chest above the chest.
- The missing side of the chest dart is drawn from the base of the right one, through the point of difference in the half-girth of the chest. Its length is identical to the right one.
- Connect the top of the left dart with a dotted line to the top mark of the armhole division on the back. On the drawn line from the top of the dart, measure: shoulder length - 4 cm. Lower the mark 2 cm below and connect it to the top of the left dart.
- From the shoulder point (2), lower the dotted line, connecting it to the lowest dividing point of the front armhole. Divide the dotted line in half, and measure 1 cm from the division point to the right.
- In the lower corner of the armhole of the shelf, divide in half, set aside 2 cm.
- Using a neat curved line, draw the armhole of the front, through the points: 2, 1, lower division point, 2, middle of the side.
This completes the construction of the top of the dress. Next, proceed to constructing the rest of the pattern.
- From point A, measure down the length of your back. Mark it as a point T, and lay a horizontal line to side BC, marking T1. This is the waist line.
- Measure 20-22 cm down from point T and mark with point L (the indicator is relevant for all sizes). Draw a horizontal line to side BC and set point L1. This is the hip line.
- Calculate the darts. Half chest circumference - half waist circumference. The resulting difference should be closed in darts. This is done according to the following scheme: 1/3 goes into the side darts, the remaining part is divided between the back and front, while a little more than the front is always removed from the back.
- At the place where the side line intersects with line TT1, measure the boundaries of the darts to the right and left. Connect the marked points with the mark of the middle of the armhole with a straight line. From the waist line, round the hips at the side line, drawing it to the base. This creates a side seam line.
- Divide the width of the back in half and draw a straight line down to hip level. Measure darts at the waistline on each side. Measure 3-4 cm from the armhole line along the dart line, and step back 2 cm from the hip line. Connect the marks that appear, drawing the back dart.
- Build a tuck at the front of the dress. From the bottom of the bust dart, draw a straight line to the hip line. At waist level on each side, set aside the front dart measurement. On top of the drawn line, retreat 5-6 cm. Connect the dots to form a dart.
The base of the dress pattern is completely ready! Now you can start the fun part, cutting and sewing the product itself.
Sleeve pattern for a dress
Some dress models require sleeves. Having created a sleeve pattern once, you can model different styles, including the popular puff sleeve.
To create a drawing you will need:
- back length;
- shoulder length;
- 1/2 neck circumference;
- 1/2 chest circumference;
- 1/2 circle above the chest;
- 1/2 hip circumference;
- the length of the sleeve;
- 1/2 wrist circumference.
- Draw rectangle ABCD. Lines AB and DC are equal: 1/3 of the semicircle around the chest + 1 cm x 2. Lines AD and BC are equal to the length of the future sleeve.
- From point A, measure down 3/4 of the armhole height. Mark with a point P and draw a straight line until the side BC touches, marking with a point P1.
- Divide line AB into four equal parts and lay segments from the identified points to side DC. Name the points as shown in the diagram.
- Connect point O with a dotted line to P and P1. Place point O3 on the intersection line O1H.
- On segment O1H, raise the intersection point O3 1.5 cm higher and designate it as O5.
- Divide segment PO3 in half and measure down 0.5 cm, marking it with a dot 0.5.
- Divide the O3O segment in half and measure up 2 cm, marking it with dot 2.
- Divide segment OO4 in half and set aside 1.5 cm upward, marking it with a dot 1.5.
- Divide O4P1 in half and measure down 2 cm.
- Connect the marked marks with a curved smooth line, as shown in the image.
The sleeve pattern is ready. If you want to make it shorter, simply move the bottom line to the required distance, as shown in the diagram.
To narrow a sleeve, measure half the difference between the width of the sleeve and the wrist on both sides of the bottom of the sleeve. And then draw lines from the armhole to the resulting points as can be seen in the diagram.
Dress pattern: modeling
Now the promised modeling example. Many people consider this process complicated and subject only to professionals, but this is far from the case, and now you will see this.
Let's look at how to construct a dress pattern with embossed seams “Princess”, based on an existing one.
- The darts must be shifted: 3 cm to the right on the back, and 2 cm to the left on the shelf.
- On both halves, retreat 6 cm along the armhole.
- Connect point 6 with a smooth line to the tops of the darts, and from the ends of the latter draw lines to the hem of the dress.
- From the point of the bust dart, cut a piece so that it touches the curved line 6-2. The pattern will need to be cut along this line to cover the large bust dart.
- Cut out the pattern and then close the large bust dart. The resulting small dart needs to be closed when transferring the parts to the fabric.
You need to cut out the parts according to this principle:
With the help of such a dress you can visually correct your figure, especially if you choose two materials that contrast in color. For example, cut the sides from black fabric, and the center of the back and front from beige.
As you can see, modeling is not at all complicated, but, on the contrary, is a rather entertaining creative process. Turn on your imagination 100% and create unique, inimitable masterpieces!
Construction according to the Japanese method.
A fairly simple technique, easy to take measurements, there are not many of them, and the principle of construction is also very simple. The only thing worth considering when choosing this technique is its authors.
It's no secret that the physique of Japanese women is very different from ours. If you are lean, athletic, fit, then the first method of building a foundation using this method - “in the skin” - will be very suitable for you.
There is also a construction of a free silhouette according to only 3 standards.
Having built the base, you can also unmodel it using the Japanese method.
Modeling techniques: Nakamichi Tomoko's book "Pattern Magic"
Starting with a simple drawing, you can improve to the heights of modeling.
You can get acquainted with the methodology in the forum topic “Japanese master class”
Construction according to Lin Jacques (French cutting technique)
The construction is simple and very easy to understand, but the following is a little confusing:
CO increases greatly influence the final result;
the slope of the shoulder is determined very approximately;
the opening of the chest dart is determined by the table (a constant value for each size), and not by the construction method.
It should be taken into account: the technique originates in the first half of the 20th century. And the bodice “fits” quite well using this method, which can be used by those who are keen on the “new look” style.
The modeling in the book is very beautiful and interesting. By the way, John Galliano started with this technique.
Construction according to "M Muller and Son".
The technique is more difficult to master than the Italian and Japanese ones.
It proposes a design for both a conventionally standard figure for mass production and an individual figure for custom tailoring. When building a base for an individual figure, the following can be used:
calculated values, if the figure is close to the conventionally typical one;
individual measurements if the deviations are significant.
The presence of deviations from the conventionally typical figure is revealed by the control of the calculation of auxiliary dimensional characteristics.
Much attention is paid to graphically changing the basis into figures with various deviations from the conventionally typical one.
The presentation of the material of the system is sequential, from simple to complex.
The system combines a structure that is easy for a beginner to understand, a minimum of ready-made tabular values, and a huge amount of modern modeling material. Contents of cutting lessons according to Muller in the magazine "Atelier"
More detailed reviews of the technique and difficulties encountered during its development can be found in the forum topic:
“Foundation and modeling according to Muller, advice from those who have mastered the technique”
Construction based on the book by T.A. Roslyakova and construction options from Murzilka
in the book by T.A. Roslyakova's "School of Sewing" creatively applied the developments of TsOTSL to create clothing for individual purposes. Her recommendations were appreciated by dressmakers who deal with non-standard figures of clients. To build the base you will have enough materials:
Murzilka (participant of the forum "Club of Sewing Lovers. Season") made an attempt to develop approaches to design for non-standard figures, using the work of T.A. Roslyakova and some “deep” measures of Zlachevskaya’s methodology. You can view the materials:
Author's school "LUBAKS" under the leadership of Aksenova, she developed a methodology based on the so-called “norms”.
The construction is based on the “hip norm” (Nb) - this is the 20th part of the hip circumference and on the “height norm”, which is found in the table.
To master this technique, it is advisable to attend courses or take the guidance of someone who is familiar with it.
In the process of learning (on your own or in courses), you should develop an eye that will be very useful for mastering this technique.
23:36 Unknown 69 Comments
Hello, dear readers!
When sewing simple clothes, you can do without a pattern; for clothes with complex styles, you will already need a pattern - a paper template from which fabric parts are cut out. If you choose between a finished pattern and a design drawing, I would recommend the second option.
Even if you are new to sewing, pattern making will help you quickly understand and master the principles of clothing design. In addition, the pattern is made according to your individual measurements, which means that the future product will fit well on your figure; ready-made patterns do not guarantee such a result, since each of us has our own anatomical features of the figure. And lastly, pattern making is an interesting and exciting process!
In this article, we will learn how to build a basic pattern for a dress using Tatyana Roslyakova’s method.
In the last article we learned what we will need to sew a dress pattern. Let me remind you that the design drawing is made only for half of the figure, so measurements of volume and width are recorded in half size. Below is a table in which I have written my measurements as an example. Using these standards, I will make calculations, and you must substitute your data.
Name of measurements and symbols | cm |
|---|---|
Half neck circumference (Ssh) | |
Half chest circumference (Сг) | 40,5 |
Half waist (St) | |
Half hip circumference (Sb) | 44.5 |
Back length to waist (Lts) | |
Back Width (Shs) | 16,5 |
Front length to waist (Dtp) | |
Chest Height (Vg) | |
Center of the chest (CG) | |
Shoulder Length (Dp) | |
Product length (Di) |
In addition to measurements, we will need allowances for loose fit (FO). These increases are added to almost all measurements when drawing a structure; they are needed for freedom of movement and breathing. Depending on the silhouette of the product, the allowance for a loose fit varies in size. The allowances also differ for styles of clothing (trousers, jackets, coats, etc.), moreover, there are separate allowances for different types of fabrics. Different methods for creating patterns indicate different increases for the same silhouettes and styles, so it is very important to pay attention to the increases that are indicated in the method. But for now we are learning to build the basis of the dress, so I offer you two silhouettes: fitted and semi-fitted with the following increases:
Please note that the increases shown in the table are added entirely to half measurements. That is, if the chest girth measurement is 81 cm, then the half chest girth = 40.5 cm; for a close-fitting silhouette, an increase in loose fit of 3 cm is added to 40.5 cm, this means that the future product along the chest line will be 6 cm larger. In addition, the increase along the chest line is distributed among the pattern pieces in the following ratio:
back width - 30%
shelf width - 20%
Armhole width - 50%.
distribution of increase along the chest line
I will indicate all allowances for loose fit to these and other measurements in the formulas when creating the pattern. In this article we will build a dress with a fitted silhouette.Let's start with the drawing . It is necessary to prepare a sheet of paper, the length of which should be 10-15 cm greater than the length of the future dress. If you have never made patterns before, I would advise you to make all the drawings on graph paper in a roll, which can be purchased at an office supply store. It's a pleasure to draw on this paper! The drawings are accurate and smooth. Dress length . In the upper left corner of a sheet of paper, draw a right angle with its vertex at point P, departing 5 cm from the top edge. From point P down in a straight line we put aside a value equal to the length of the dress and put a point H (segment PH = Di = 85 cm).
- the size of the front dart opening = 0.25 of the total dart opening (13.5 x 0.25 = 3.4 cm),
- side tuck opening size = 0.45 of the total opening (13.5 x 0.45 = 6 cm),
- back tuck opening size = 0.3 of the total opening (13.5 x 0.3 = 4.1 cm)
Shelf
- front part of the product
Neck
- neckline
Armhole
- cutout for sleeves (cut from shoulder to side seams to connect sleeves to bodice)
Dart
- excess fabric tucked into the seam. Using darts, the necessary shapes are given to the product.
In addition to the dress, you can build.
