First I want to highlight the main advantages of this model:

• It is relatively easy to sew for a person who has no experience in this (much easier than sewing a winter jacket using synthetic padding); a jacket usually takes me about five days of pure time, but this coat can be sewn in a day.
• The pattern is simple, the coat schematically resembles a robe, i.e. the smell is fixed with a belt, there is no complicated small work, since there are no vents, buttons or loops on the coat. And all this ease of sewing only adds to this model’s advantages, as it looks amazing and very stylish!
• Due to its “casual” cut, this model fits perfectly on sizes 42 and 46, which makes this pattern universal.
• The coat is made from two layers of wool, is not blown, and only on the sleeves I put thin insulation with a lining (for slipping in the sleeves).

I could probably write nice things about this coat for a long time, but I’ll quickly get to the point!

Ultimately, I sewed several of these coats in different colors, since my girlfriends really wanted to have such beauty, and since it is not mega difficult, I sewed it for them too.

I needed:

• 3.5 meters of wool (I have 80% wool, i.e. 20% synthetics will not wrinkle the coat)
• 0.5 m lining fabric
• 0.5 m of insulation (sintepon 70)
• companion fabric (0.3 m faux leather) for hems and pockets

This model in white is distinguished by patch pockets and is sewn an hour faster, since pockets with leaves take more time:

Autumn coat

Initially, I got this pattern from my friend’s autumn cashmere coat, which was sewn very unpretentiously in one layer of fabric, while absolutely all the edges and seams inside were simply overlocked. This coat looked very stylish, but I wanted to make it winter, i.e. exactly the same coat, only made of wool and in two layers.

So, if you want, just do it in one layer and you will get autumn coat.

Winter coat

We sew a winter coat with our own hands

We cut out the parts of the coat from wool, making sure that the pattern or pile on all parts has the same direction:

Sew the details along the side seams:

Now we connect the joint of the middle of the collar:

Cut out the sleeve details:

We sew them together with a tube:

We sew the upper part of the back along the shoulder seams and connect it to the collar, all this is done in one seam, if it seems unclear how to join it, twirl it in your hands, apply it, it’s difficult to make a mistake.

We cut out the details of the inner coat from wool, and sew the sleeves to the outer coat:

Now on the top coat you need to make pockets with leaves. Mark the location on the fabric:

I’ll tell you honestly: while sewing, I started thinking... and began to make a pocket in a frame instead of a pocket with leaves.... well. I’ll somehow fix this issue later, because I’m not going to put a zipper in my pocket, I decided that you can’t unscrew it back anyway - I’ll come up with something)))).

Cut a rectangle out of fabric to make a pocket into a frame:

We pin this strip face to face and draw a frame:

We sew it on a machine and make an incision so that we can turn it inside out:

The frame is almost ready, all that remains is to stitch and draw out the basting:

We cut out the burlap of the pocket, and sew a rectangle of artificial leather onto half of the burlap, which will be visible when using the pocket:

Now we’re going to make a piece of paper for the pocket, measure the height of the frame and cut out a rectangle of the required width and height, taking into account allowances.

• Let's say a pocket is 16 cm high + 4 cm allowance = 20 cm high
• The width of the frame is 1.5 cm, then add allowances of 3 cm = 6 cm wide

Sew the leather leaf along the side seams:

I decided to make it not an even shape, but with an extension to the corners:

Turn out the leaf:

We sew the frame around the perimeter using a machine:

Sew in the leaf:

Sew on the burlap:

We're done with the pockets.

A year later I sewed the same coat for a friend with pockets with leaf. .

Now you need to make sleeves for the inner coat, cut out the sleeves from the lining and padding polyester and quilt them together. The lower part of the lining sleeve (about 10 cm high) needs to be replaced with wool, so that when wearing the coat the lining under the sleeve is not visible:

Sew the outer and inner sleeves:

Now it’s time to sew the outer and inner coats together along the perimeter, but I also want to decorate the coat with piping, so I sew piping onto the outer coat on parts of the front shelves and collar:

Here's what happens:

The main thing when sewing edging on the corners is to be careful, since it is necessary that when turning both already sewn parts inside out, the edging peeks out at the corners without unnecessary tension and without unnecessary freedom. You just need to adapt...

We sew the outer and inner coat along the entire perimeter: collar, sides, bottom.

We turn the coat inside out through the unsewn lining in one of the sleeves, as I did in jackets.

Now I decided to secure both layers of wool along the neck line with a hidden seam, just in case, so that there would be no shifting when worn:

We make belt loops. Belt loop height 6.5 cm without allowances:

Sew the belt loops to the desired location on the coat:

And we iron them.

Belt

The finished belt is 5 cm wide and 170 cm long, so we cut out a strip of fabric 12 cm wide and 172 cm long. I didn't have such a long strip of fabric, so you can make a belt from several parts.

Patch pockets

If you want to make patch pockets, cut out rectangles with sides of 20 and 25 cm (this is already taking into account allowances). The location of the patch pockets is marked on the pattern so that it is convenient to put your hands there. If the wool is “movable”, i.e. there is a possibility that the pocket may stretch when worn - be sure to duplicate it, otherwise it will stretch and lose its shape very quickly.

We iron the entire coat thoroughly, all the seams, all the joints of two layers of fabric, after ironing the wool perfectly takes the desired shape and the coat will look amazing!

The coat is a classic element of the demi-season wardrobe, which has been winning more and more young fans in recent years. Modern trends give us huge scope for combinations and fantasies - you can combine an item with classic boots, chunky boots, and even sneakers. Current models (for example, oversized or balloon) are suitable for girls of any body type. By choosing different accessories and shoes, you can create new looks almost every day.

Changeable weather, harsh, cold or damp climate are not the only reasons for the popularity of women's coats. This is a stylish wardrobe item that completes the look and makes it relevant. By choosing the right style, you can visually adjust your figure parameters.

The most popular models on the seasonal catwalks are coat-dresses, “tulips”, trapezoidal cut, with one-piece sleeves or a belt (swing, without buttons). They are decorated with turn-down collars, stand-up collars, classic lapels or bold fur trim on the cuffs. The color scheme of many recent seasons has been classic, dramatic shades of red and burgundy. A timeless, win-win option is a coat in graphite gray, milky, terracotta colors or in a small pattern (“houndstooth”, “Vichy” check).

whatkatewore.com

Beginning of work

Taking measurements and creating the base

To correctly design a coat pattern, you must first build its base according to the parameters of the figure. To do this, carefully take measurements, not forgetting about allowances for a loose fit. The increase is up to 8.5 cm on straight styles and up to 10 cm on loose ones. For a tight fit, an increase of 5-7 cm will be enough.

Before building the base, you need to take measurements to determine the parameters.

• The length of the product is along the back, shoulder and to the waist.
• Half-circumferences - neck, chest, chest, waist, hips, wrists.
• Sleeve size.

For clarity and convenience, a basic rectangle is constructed on paper, the corners of which are indicated by points ABCD.

• AB/CD (product width) is determined by the half-bust circumference (Og) plus 75 mm.
• AD/BC (product length) - according to model.

Also, to create a coat pattern, you need to calculate the depth of the armhole. It is equal to one tenth of Og plus 10.5 cm and an increase (about 3 cm). This point on the grid is designated as G. If you draw a segment from it to the right until it intersects with BC, you get G1.

To determine the lines along the waist and hips from point A down, measure the length of the back to the waist - point T will appear. From it you need to draw an axis down to BC, and mark the intersection as T1. Now, from marks T and T1 downwards, measure about one-fifth of the entire length (18-25 cm) and place points L and L1, respectively, for the hips.

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The back width of the product is defined as one-eighth of Og plus 5.5 cm and the increase is the segment G-G2. From G2 you need to extend the axis upward to the intersection with AB, marking it as P. If from the same G2 you measure one-eighth of Og to the right (plus the increase and minus one and a half centimeters), you get G3. Section G2-G3 - width along the armhole.

The section G1-SH is laid upward, focusing on half the half-circumference of the chest (plus one and a half centimeters and an increase in the depth of the armhole). The same distance is set aside from G3 - point P1 is obtained. Extending the line to AB, the intersection is designated as P2. Section P2-Ш is a rise along the shelf.

The last thing to do to create the mesh is to draw the side, shoulder and armhole lines. On the segment G2-G3, the center is marked, from it the axis is drawn down to CD, marking the intersection as H, then to T-T1 (T2) and to L-L1 (L2). To align the auxiliary axes on the shoulder and armhole, the segments P-G2 and P2-G3 are divided into four equal parts. To complete the coat pattern, you need to calculate the darts at the waist, back and front.

Creating a pattern for the basic model

The first stage of building a basic coat model is drawing out the back.

• A cutout is made on the neckline - a concave line is drawn from point A to A1, starting from 1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck (plus 1.5 centimeters) and bending the curve upward by 1.5 and 1 cm.
• 1.5 cm are set aside from point P for an inclination along the shoulder.
• The line of the shoulder and armhole is drawn through P-G2 (the bisector of the angle is drawn from G2).
• A seam is formed on the side - from T2 through G4, L2 to CD.
• Waist darts are made from half of G-G2, a guideline on the waist and hip lines T-T1 and L-L1.

womanadvice.ru

The front of the product is lined up, starting from the neckline. From mark Ш you need to set aside a third of Og to the left (plus 1.5 centimeters - a fixed value for all sizes). You need to put a third of the Og down, adding 2 cm to the segment. The resulting ends of the segments are connected by a dotted axis and its center is measured. It is connected to Sh.

Next, you need to shape the shoulder, measuring its length from the neckline to the dart on the chest. You will also need the distance from it to the armhole. Connect point P3 (the end of the left dart line) and the top P-G2 with a dotted line. Measure along the dotted line for the shoulder length, subtracting the distance from the neckline to the chest dart. Connect the resulting point to the lower end of P2-G3, set aside another 2 cm and extend the segment to P3.

Now you need to draw an armhole line, a seam on the side (from T2 through G4-L2 to CD ending at mark H). On the pattern, draw a line along the waist, hips and bottom, make waist darts along the front and sides. On a classic coat, you can make a fastener - for this, an increase in the side is provided (on double-breasted models it is up to 10 cm).

Having mastered the sequence of actions, it will be possible to design products of different styles and cuts.

Classic model with two-seam sleeves

The pattern of a classic-style coat fits well on cloth - for example, gray. It will need a lining, buttons and threads to match. For a standard product of sizes 44-48, length from waist 65 cm, choose about three meters of fabric. From similar material you can sew another classic model - double-breasted, with an “English” collar and set-in pockets. The lining in it can be stitched or detached.

miltex.su

The front half of the product consists of three parts: central, side and side.

It is necessary to model two seams on the sides (raised) - from the chest and waist darts and from the center of the armhole.

The seams are lined up according to the pattern, rounding the lines on the chest and cutting the details along the edges of the darts. The back of the coat is constructed in the same way. The two-seam sleeve, collar and lapel are formed separately. You can also make a flap for the pockets or embed them with a stitching sheet.

On the classic model, either a detachable collar or a stitched stand is made. For them, you first need to measure the neckline in front and back. It is done along the control points AB of the base rectangle. The sleeve length will be about 4 cm, and the width is determined by the parameters of the upper half.

The pattern of a women's coat with a modern straight silhouette is similar to the classic one, but the sleeves in it, as a rule, are single-seam and have one-piece cuffs.

The shelf is cut along the waist line. Folds are made in the seams on the shoulders and waist - one on top of the other. It is advisable to expand the shoulder girdle.

Basic drawings can also be used to design winter clothing, but additional additions will need to be added - for a layer of insulation.

Fashionable coats

A-line and close-fitting

To obtain a trapezoidal silhouette, you will need to add about 10 cm to the half-circumference of the hips. You can balance the shape of the product with sleeves extended at the bottom by 20-25 cm. The top of the product is tightly “fitted” to the figure, and the expansion begins only from the hip line. The style is complemented by a set-in jacket collar, double-breasted fastening and decorative stitching.

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Models with a tight fit are often complemented with a stand-up collar. You need to enlarge the neckline and make shirt sleeves that are slightly wider at the bottom. The shoulder is narrowed so that the armhole along the back is vertical. The chest and waist darts are moved to the chest, on the side. The set-in belt can be decorated with stitching.

The adjacent model is modified by widening at the bottom and making a single-breasted wrap and a belt that is tied at the waist.

Progress

• Increase the width of the back by 6 cm.
• Widen the neck a couple of centimeters.
• Change the location of the shoulder points along the back a centimeter up, and along the shelf - a centimeter down.

Another style that allows you to emphasize your figure is semi-fitted. For convenience, such a coat can be sewn with a zipper. It is also better to make the collar stand-up, fastened with buttons. Since the coat is narrow, it is worth making a vent on the back panel along the middle seam.

Pattern of a model with a voluminous collar

A coat with large collars should be sewn by modeling the drawing according to the basic pattern of the jacket. This way the lines will be balanced and harmonious. The work begins with a drawing of a shelf on which there is no need to make darts. The side seam is adjusted to remove the flare, and the shoulder seam is shortened by the amount of opening along the chest dart. On the back you need to make a slot for a third of the length of the product - about 8 cm wide.

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If you want to remove the chest dart on a magazine pattern, you need to cut the front, close it, leaving 1-1.5 centimeters for the solution. The waist dart will need to be opened by moving the side part away. It is removed along the back.

The sleeve is modeled based on the diagram of a classic single-seam element. Its width is determined by adding 10-12 cm to the circumference of the upper arm for a loose fit. To measure the parameters of the bottom, you need to measure your wrist, adding 15-16 cm to its girth.

The main decorative element - a voluminous collar - is modeled from the collar. At the shoulder line you need to put 2 cm to the right, and at the waist - 7-8 cm up and to the right. From the resulting point, draw a vertical line to the bottom of the front and up to the shoulder - this is the bend of the lapel. Its configuration is drawn by drawing a horizontal line along the lower point of the neck. The selection is cut out separately.

Patterns for cashmere products

Cashmere is one of the most suitable materials for coats. It is warm, soft and looks elegant and respectable. To ensure that all the features of the fabric are used, choose equally “status” styles - straight with a double-breasted wrap or with a dropped shoulder. Secure the product with a belt, and secure the classic turn-down collar with a button. Extend the neck according to the selected model. Make the sleeves one-piece and with three seams.

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A straight cashmere coat in a traditional style has several features:

• the hem is closed, so there are no seams on the sides;
• the chest dart is reduced by a centimeter and moved to the neckline;
• The width of the back is increased by 5-6 cm.

To model straight products with a dropped shoulder, the neckline is widened, and on single-seam sleeves, expansion and stitched cuffs are made. The shoulder point must be raised by a centimeter and the width of the chest and back increased by the same amount. The chest dart is moved from the shoulder to the neckline, and the shoulder dart is reduced by a centimeter. Taking into account all the changes, you can build a base according to individual sizes.

The current trend is a coat that has no buttons or zippers, just a belt. Its basis is a straight, semi-adjacent style of the product with a chest dart. To fix the shelf, you can provide a large hidden button. If the fabric is double-faced and has a fleecy back, no lining is needed.

When sewing things with one-piece sleeves, you must iron them. Preparation will help you avoid mistakes when basting and get a well-fitting product. To understand where to iron and where to press sleeves, imagine what your arm looks like when you bend it at the elbow.

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The laconic basic model can be “diversified” with slanted pockets, interesting sleeves, finished with piping at the bottom or one-piece cuffs. The “robe” model is slightly narrowed at the hem, adjusting the width of the sleeves according to the product.

Ready-made pattern for a women's demi-season coat in four sizes Og 88 – 100 cm.

We offer a ready-made pattern for a demi-season coat with reliefs, topstitched with a turn-down collar on a small stand. Pockets are located in the seams of the reliefs. If we talk about the complexity of processing, this is probably one of the simplest types of pockets. Loop and button closure. Sleeves are set-in at the cuffs.

Using this pattern you can sew not only a demi-season coat, but also a raincoat or jacket. In the latter case, you just need to adjust the length.

The coat is not overloaded with elements, so it will allow you, depending on the selected accessories, to create a variety of looks. A small collar will not hurt to complement the coat with a light scarf, stole, or wear a snood.

A coat will require 2-2.5 m of fabric (depending on size) with a width of 1.50 m. Choose bright, fashionable fabrics. It can be drape, cashmere, jacquard, faux suede, thick tweed, even jeans, corduroy, etc. The fabric does not have to be plain.

The pattern is given in four sizes in full size without seam allowances

Print out the pattern sheets and connect them according to the diagram. The pattern is the order in which the pattern sheets are connected.

Be sure to check the scale for consistency. On a printed sheet with a 10x10 cm square depicted, sides of 10 cm should correspond to exactly 10 centimeters.

Ready-made patterns are given for a conventionally typical figure. If your figure differs from the conventionally typical one, you should adjust the pattern taking into account the characteristics of your physique and only then start cutting.

Don't forget to give seam allowances, as well as additional allowances in those places where clarification is possible during fitting.

Cut out your coat

• Back 2 parts
• Shelf 2 parts
• Barrel 2 parts
• Top collar 1 piece
• Lower collar 1 piece
• Collar stand 2 parts (upper and lower collar)
• Upper part of the sleeve – 2 parts
• Lower part of the sleeve – 2 parts
• Collar – 2 parts (remove from the shelf onto a separate sheet)
• Burlap pocket 4 pieces (2 and 2)
• In addition to the main parts, it is necessary to cut the following parts:
• Sleeve cuffs – width (height) 9 cm (finished 4.5 cm), length 28-29-30-31 cm depending on size – 2 parts.

The lining is cut according to the main parts. When cutting the front lining, subtract the width of the hem. It is best to pre-make patterns for the shelf lining. Copy the part onto a separate sheet of paper, cut off the trim and the shelf lining pattern is ready.

Having swept away the parts, try on the product, make all the necessary adjustments and start sewing.

I tried to describe in detail the sequence of processing the coat. Additional information will be easy to find in specialized literature on the technology of processing garments, including on our website.

Tailoring a coat

• First, you should duplicate the hem, lower collar and stand, as well as the one-piece valance of the pocket and sleeve cuffs with adhesive interlining.
• After stitching, sweep all open edges. Those sections that are ironed after stitching must be overcast before stitching, for example, the front sections of sleeves.
• If you are sewing a product with a lining, you do not need to overcast the seams, except in cases where the fabric has flowability.
• Stitch the middle sections of the back, iron the seam allowance on the left side of the back and sew a finishing stitch at a distance of 0.7 cm from the stitching seam.
• Process the darts on the barrels (stitch, iron).
• Sew the burlap pockets to the shelves and barrels according to the control marks.
• Sew the barrels to the shelves, and at the same time sew the burlap pockets.
• Press the seams onto the middle part of the front and add a finishing stitch (0.7 cm). First on the areas of the entrance to the pocket, and then on the remaining areas of the reliefs. Make cross tacks at the ends of the pockets.

Stitch the edges of the barrels and the back, iron the seams on the back, and add a finishing stitch (0.7 cm).

• Sew shoulder seams and press.
• Process the collar. First, sew the stand to the collar, respectively on the upper and lower collars, iron the allowances towards the stand. If the fabric is thick, iron the seams and cut off the seam allowance, leaving approximately 0.3 cm. Stitch the collar along the outer contour, trim the seam allowance. Turn the collar out, sweep, iron.
• Process the sides of the shelves. Stitch starting from the ledge (the marks on the neck are the control point for starting to sew in the collar). Trim seam allowances, turn out the edges, sweep, iron. If there is a special block, before turning it out, first iron the seam, then it will be easier to sweep it out.
• Sew in the collar. The lower collar is sewn into the neck of the product, and the upper collar into the neck of the collar. Iron allowances. Sew the upper collar on the back section with blind stitches to the allowance of the lower collar.
• Place a finishing stitch along the sides and outer edge of the collar.
• Bring the bottom seam allowance to the wrong side, iron, and hem with blind stitches.
• Finish the sleeve clasp (fold the edges of the clasp allowance and stitch). Sew the elbow seams of the sleeves to the fastener, iron the allowances onto the upper part of the sleeve, and add a finishing stitch of 0.7 cm.
• Sew the front seams of the sleeves and press.
• Stitch the cross sections of the cuffs, turn them inside out and iron them. Sew cuffs to sleeves, iron seam allowances towards cuffs. Place a stitch into the stitching seam, thereby attaching the underside of the cuffs. Place a finishing stitch around the perimeter of the cuffs.
• Insert the sleeves into the product, matching the notches and fitting the sleeve cap.
• Mark the location of the loops on the right front and on the cuffs. Sew over the loops. Sew buttons according to loops.

That's all. It's not as complicated as it might seem at first glance.

What should no woman's wardrobe be without? Of course, this list includes a black dress, shoes, trousers... But another important component is the coat. It is worn in different weather and different seasons. Trends change every season, and buy a new one every two to three months branded item Not everyone can afford it. However, this is not scary for real housewives who are “friends” with threads and needles.

A huge plus in the ability to model a pattern for a coat, or a short coat (and not only) yourself, is that although you can find and download a pattern on the Internet completely free of charge, the pattern for a real handmade product is created taking into account the individual characteristics of the physique and figure . In other words, someone else’s pattern can serve you very badly - a product tailored according to it will fit you like a saddle on a cow. Let's say you downloaded a pattern for a straight-fit double-breasted winter coat with dropped sleeves. And after all, the sketch was made in advance, and everything seemed to be cut and sewn correctly - but instead of an elegant thing, it turned out God knows what... And even if now you try to recut it and make it fitted, it won’t save you... But if you model the pattern yourself, everything fits perfectly!

So, in this article we will look at a topic such as “Modeling a women’s coat pattern”:

• straight coat pattern,
• coat pattern without collar,
• summer coat pattern,
• collarless coat with a round neckline.”
• Being a professional in the field of sewing, this will not be difficult at all, but amateurs should figure everything out in order, and it will not be such a difficult task. Yes of course you will have to pay attention work a lot of attention, however, the result is a unique outerwear. And never again say that you met a girl wearing exactly the same thing as you.

Moreover, there are quite a lot of varieties of silhouettes. It can be a coat with a straight stand-up collar or a coat of a classic style; you can also create a summer version of this type of wardrobe. You can even create exactly the same model as world famous designers, and it will certainly cost you much less than in boutiques. And if you consider that you can choose an interesting, original design, or that there will be a special coat under a separate handbag or boots... inspiration will flood in, and your hands will reach out to work.

Note that for sewing, the so-called coat fabrics. Let's start with the fact that the basis of a woman's coat, like any clothing that will ultimately fit perfectly on the figure, is a pattern. To construct it, it is necessary to carry out special measurements.

The first part of the women's coat pattern

In order to create a drawing of a pattern for a future coat, you need to take the following measurements: length along the back of the coat, shoulder, from back to waist, sleeves, semi-circle of the wrist, above the chest, semi-circle of the chest, neck, waist and hips. You should approach this stage with the utmost scrupulousness, because it determines how the coat will fit on you.

When taking measurements, keep in mind that the freedom of fit of clothing depends on the increase in the semi-circumference of the chest. What should the increase be? It depends on the silhouette and style of the finished product. In particular, for a coat, the so-called semi-fitted silhouette, it is 7.5–8.5 cm, for a loose or straight coat - 8.5–10 cm. It is worth reducing the increase to 5–7 cm if you want to make a coat adjacent to the body. Further actions depend on what model you want to get as a result.

What will need to be cut out?

Let's look at it in order and immediately emphasize that everything is necessary in two copies:

1. middle part of the shelf
2. shelf side,
3. selection,
4. middle part of the back
5. back side,
6. facing the front armhole,
7. turn-down collar stand,
8. turn-down collar,
9. facing the back armhole,
10. set-in back belt.

In addition: pockets made of main and lining fabrics. Constructing a pattern After all the measurements have been taken, it is necessary to prepare a pattern.

Consider the option of creating a female coat without collar. The cutting of the upper part of the garment is created using a pattern, which, taking into account the allowances and direction of the shares, must be laid out on the fabric. Please note that the middle seam will not coincide with the grain thread. As for the lower back, that is, the “skirt” of the coat, it can be cut out with or without a seam. In the second case, it is better to do this if you attach the middle line of the fabric to the fold.

Tip: if the fabric is thick, use a larger allowance

At the bottom of the coat, make an allowance of 3.5–4 cm. Outside the outline of your pattern, the allowance will be at the location of the neckline, collar and armhole. And in place of the waist cuts - 1.2–1.5 cm. In addition, it is important to say that the pattern allowance for the middle seam will ultimately be uneven. This will be expressed in such a way that for the lower part of the bodice the allowance will be 3.5 cm, for the upper part - 2 cm. When choosing the correct allowance for the lower part of the back, think in advance whether there will be a slot there. If yes, then it is important to increase the allowance to 7 or even 8 cm.

This concludes the features associated with unevenness allowances are not completed. Remember a simple rule: the fabric is thicker - the allowance is larger. It should be increased to 4 cm in the elbow seam, or rather, in its lower part. This will allow you to successfully process the sleeve.

Seams, lobe threads and their directions

For model shelf parts, the grain thread must pass only along the edge of the side and half-skid. And nothing else! As for the upper part of the sleeve, when working, lay the fabric so that the lowest point of the front seam connects to the top.

What you need to know about the lining of a coat

There is no need to take measurements again to cut out the lining. We do this according to the same patterns as the front part of the coat. In order not to make your work in vain and not to spoil the patterns of the back, bodice, shelves, we give you practical and important advice. Make a copy of the pattern in advance using paper or, better yet, plastic film.

You will most likely ask the question, how can you spoil the pattern? The fact is that for the lining it will be necessary to bend the edges along the border line to the sides of the shelf. And it is necessary to cut the pattern along the border of the side.

It is better to make a copy for both the lining of the back bodice and for piping the sprout. After all, the work itself also involves cutting the pattern. But at the same time, there is another peculiarity: the facing of the sprout needs to be cut out only with certain allowances. Their size is 1.2–1.5 cm according to the shoulder and middle seam.

Secrets of saving

Many professionals know how to create a chic item and at the same time save on fabric. Now we will tell you one of the super tips, it concerns the pattern of the sleeve lining. It turns out that at this stage you can save a little, but still save money. For this we cut out the sleeve crosswise, therefore no allowance is needed on the splines. And at the bottom of the sleeve it will be quite enough to add 3-4 cm.

Sleeveless coat: cutting features

Designing a light coat that is suitable for cold summer weather has its own characteristics. The main feature is the construction of the shelf. First of all, you should shorten the shoulder line by 2 cm. In this case, it is important to widen the armhole by no less than 2 cm. After this, the chest and waist darts need to be moved closer to the side line, and again by 2 cm. But the chest dart needs to be moved into the so-called relief. Glue the top on its sides the south left side of the shelf, and be sure to remove the barrels with scissors.

Also deepen the neckline of the coat by 2 cm, from top to bottom. In that place, make an increase for the fastener. Make the lapel this way: measure exactly 6 cm to the right of the center front and draw a line. This will be the new mid-front line.

We continue to work and determine the place on the shelf where they will be accommodate pockets. These places should be marked with a dotted line. As for the selection, it’s worth re-shooting and making a separate pattern. In the same way, re-cut the hem of the armhole. Its width should be 4 cm. You can also make a separate pattern for a turn-down collar on a stand.

Don't forget about the back of the sleeveless coat. So, first of all, shorten the shoulder line by 2 cm, and deepen the armhole, in turn, by no more than 2 cm. Be sure to apply a raised line to the pattern; it should go through the waist dart. Next, cut the back and cut out the dart. Please also take into account the allowances: make the slot 8 cm wide and 0.33 cm long. And additionally, remove the facing of the armhole; it should be 4 cm wide.

Choice of fabric - success in tailoring

We looked at the construction of the coat and the process of preparing the pattern. But the important thing remains that special fabric is needed. We recommend choosing the following types of fabrics:

• cashmere,
• wool,
• or lighter fabric.

Please note that for a sleeveless coat you need to purchase a 2.6 m drape, its width should be 145 cm. 2.4 m of lining fabric is enough, the width, again, is 145 cm. The number of buttons is optional, as well as their diameter. But for a stylish coat, it is best to take an equal number of buttons of the same diameter. Usually 6 buttons are enough. Well, of course, don’t forget - the threads should match the clasps. In some cases, a zipper is used; this can look stylish if the model is suitable.

Features of a summer coat

We looked at a lot of details, but when creating a lightweight coat, there are special details. This coat is modeled using dress patterns, and the sleeves are single-seam. In order for the clothes to be loose, an increase should be made according to the circumference of the chest (4 cm). When building the back, you need to deepen the cutout and straighten the side seam. The length of the product may vary, but it is usually made 88 cm.

No matter how much we lament the transience of summer days, autumn has already fully come into its own. Perhaps it is much better to stop being sad and switch to the new opportunities that the golden season gives us. So, the most pleasant of them will be the opportunity to update your wardrobe.

It's time to look for cozy and beautiful outerwear. I propose to bet on a coat - a thing that will always be in fashion. The coat pattern presented in this article is good for its simplicity and versatility. Don’t let the bright colors scare you, because you can sew it from any shade of fabric. But the style of the coat is slightly flared and loose, perfect for any figure.

How to sew a coat with your own hands

At the end of the sewing description, you can download coat patterns of 3 sizes - 44, 46 and 48. Fabric consumption is indicated for these sizes, respectively. The length of the product along the back is 102 - 104 - 106 cm.

What you will need:

• 2.50-2.60-2.65 m light quilted material, width - 150 cm
• 1.20 m - 1.30 m adhesive spacer. material width 90 cm
• 4 mother-of-pearl buttons, diameter 33 mm
• 1 pair of padded hangers

ATTENTION! If you do not have enough professional skills, the product can be simplified by replacing the stitched loops with overlocked loops. An even simpler option is to sew buttons along the edge of the fastener, and on the right edge of the side from the front. sides - buttons.

The following fabrics are also suitable for sewing coats: brocade, double-faced material, heavy jacquard.

Layout plan for coat pattern pieces

On the folded fabric, lay out the pattern pieces (2 times parts 14 and 4 times part D), following the diagram. On the lining material folded in the same way, lay out the patterns of parts 15, A, B and C, in the same way as on the main fabric. Cut out the details of the coat with a 1 cm allowance. Add 4.5 cm to the hem of the bottom of the coat and sleeves.

How to sew a coat: job description

Duplicate the necessary parts with cushioning material.

On the right side, follow the markings and make stitching stitches.

Stitch the sections of the back reliefs. Then press the seams.

Finish the front ridges and seam pockets by sewing one piece of the pocket lining to the front. And the second part of the lining goes to the side of the front. Press the seams onto the lining. Stitch the relief sections, excluding the entrance to the pocket. Place a finishing stitch along the opening of the pocket. Stitch the edges of the pocket lining.

Sew the shoulder and side sections of the coat, then the shoulder sections of the hems and the inner back yoke. Press seam allowances.

Sew the middle edges of the lower collar pieces. Press seam allowances. Fold the collars of the faces. sides facing in and hem the edges of the flap and ends, seating the top collar at the ends. Trim seam allowances to 5mm. Turn the part right side out. side, straighten the hemmed edges. Baste the neck edges of the top and bottom collars. Place a finishing stitch along the edges of the collar at a distance of 1 cm.

Place the collar into the neck according to the markings on the faces. sides.

Stitch to the wrong side. side internal cuts (1 cm) of the hems and inner yoke. On faces On the side of the product, place the edging/yoke of the faces. side down and sew the edges, bottom corners of the edges and neck edges, sewing in the collar. Trim the turning seam to 5 mm, notch the allowances in the figured areas. Fold the hem/yoke to the wrong side. side, collar outward and straighten the hemmed edges.

Iron inside out. side and hem the hem of the bottom of the product.

Place a finishing stitch along the edges of the sides at a distance of 1 cm.

Finish sewing stitches on the hem side. Baste the sections of the product's armholes and hems/yokes.

Use a pressed seam to sew the longitudinal seams of the sleeves. Finish the bottom of the sleeves as you did for the bottom of the garment. Sew the sleeves into the armholes.

Sew on the wrong side. the sides of the hangers to the seams of the armholes and to the inner yoke at the neck.

Sew buttons on the left edge of the side.

Women's size chart

Coat patterns from Marlene Mukai

Very interesting coat models are presented in the drawings from Marlene Mukai. Below the photo of each coat you can download the pattern drawings. To work, you will need to enlarge the pattern pieces to the specified sizes.

The first model is a coat in style oversize, with a fairly simple cut. This style is perfect for both thin girls, emphasizing the fragility of the figure, and plump ladies, hiding some flaws.

The second model is a short coat to mid-thigh. An excellent solution for girls leading an active lifestyle. This style does not restrict movement and allows you to feel comfortable while driving a car, while shopping and when performing other everyday activities.

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