The question is: why does Monstera grow poorly? Five years ago we were given a 20-centimeter monstera sprout in a pot. They “scared” that soon there would be nowhere to put it - it grows very quickly (up to 1.5 m per year). But we’ve had it for five years now, and it hasn’t even grown up to a meter... The leaves are large, dark green, five or six on the trunk. The distance between the leaves is 3-8 cm. The leaf dies at the bottom and grows at the top. It grows very slowly. What could be the reason?
For Monstera to produce good growth, it needs rich, nutritious, well-permeable soil with a good drainage layer. And very large dishes. As the monstera grows from a sprout into a huge vine, replanting may be necessary every three to four months. You cannot plant it straight from a test tube into a bucket; you must gradually increase the size of the pot by 2-4 cm in diameter so that the roots densely fill the entire earthen ball. 8 cm between the leaves is already too much: it means the plant is stretching. It needs to be placed closer to the sun. Do not cut off the aerial roots; direct them into the ground or into test tubes with water suspended from the vine itself. Stunted growth is associated with a lack of nutrients and almost complete darkness in winter. If a monstera produces the top leaf, and the bottom one immediately dries up, it means that it is starving and eats its own old leaves, feeding the young ones. Do not touch the drying leaf yet, let it all wither. In the spring, you can replant or start fertilizing with fertilizer for decorative deciduous plants, alternating a crown growth stimulator and a root growth stimulator. My monstera grew from 40 cm to 1.5 m in about a year only on constantly replaced fatty nutrient soil. She lives in the bathroom, where there is high humidity - just what she needs. Now I have deliberately reduced watering to a minimum and do not plant it in a larger pot so that it stops growing.
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In Monstera, carved leaves begin to grow as the plant matures; you can also stimulate the early growth of carved leaves even if it grows in a low-lighted room. To do this, take any “live” beer (this beer has a short shelf life of no more than 2-3 weeks), open it and let it stand in a warm place for about a day, then water your monstera with this solution about once every 10-12 days (the rest of the time it’s normal water) and in a month your monstera will have large leaves, and then carved ones...
The fact is that many plants “love” alcohol and monstera is one of them; watering with beer stimulates growth, and after it yeast bacteria appear in the soil, they act as a living growth stimulator and fertilizer, which has a beneficial effect on this plant .
Good luck to you!
Perhaps this is the look, not all monstera leaves are carved
Perhaps there is not enough light, but if it lasts 6 years... maybe you don’t have a monstera, but just a similar plant?
It happens that it simply grows in length, and if you transplant it into a larger pot, the leaves will increase to carved shapes.
Most likely, she simply does not have enough light. While we were at work in the semi-basement, our monstera’s leaves were small and whole. As soon as we moved into a bright room, large leaves with slits began to grow.
Here are some care tips:
CARE TIPS
Temperature:
Moderate, in winter the optimal temperature is 10-14°C, with more high temperature Monstera grows quickly.
Lighting:
Does not tolerate direct sunlight. Many people believe that Monstera is shade-loving and place it in the darkest corner - this is not correct. In fact, Monstera is shade-tolerant, and the best place for it is where there is bright but diffused light or light partial shade.
Abundant from spring to autumn; in winter, water so that the soil does not dry out, but is not waterlogged.
Fertilizer:
From March to August, Monstera is fed with complex fertilizer for indoor plants. Feed every two weeks. For large plants, you can add humus to the top layer of soil once a summer, either during replanting or without it. Instead, you can also water with mullein infusion, but the smell will remain in the apartment.
Air humidity:
Regular spraying. From time to time, monstera leaves are washed, wiped with a sponge and polished. When kept near a heating system in winter, the tips of the leaves may dry out and spots may appear.
Reproduction:
Air layering and cuttings. The cutting must have a leaf and an aerial root. When the monstera grows very much, its top with one or more aerial roots is cut off and planted as an independent plant, while the mother plant continues to grow further.
Transfer:
Young monsteras are transplanted annually. Monsteras older than 4 years are replanted after 2-3 years, but the top layer of soil is changed annually. Soil: 2-3 parts turf, 1 part peat soil, 1 part humus, 1 part sand. Young plants can be grown in a bucket, but plants older than 2-3 years will need a larger container. This can be either special flower pots (there are some on sale - huge sizes) or wooden tubs. The inability to provide a large monstera with a suitable container for planting - common reason problems with the beauty and health of the plant.
Young monstera leaves are whole, heart-shaped, while those of an adult plant are deeply dissected. The appearance of leaves with a single blade on an adult monstera indicates that the plant is experiencing a lack of light or nutrients (or both). Although Monstera is considered a shade-tolerant plant, it grows better in a bright place (without direct sunlight). Move the monstera closer to the window.
If necessary, in the spring, carefully transplant the monstera into suitable fresh soil. In March, start feeding it regularly until the end of August, applying low concentration fertilizer twice a month.
Monstera is a very unpretentious and fast-growing vine, it does not require any special treatment, but even for it there are some nuances that should be followed in order to get a well-groomed and healthy plant.
Monstera grows poorly, grows whole leaves instead of carved ones, which means it does not have enough sunlight. This vine is considered very shade-tolerant, but this is not so. Monstera loves light, but does not tolerate very bright midday sun, which in our Russian conditions burns leaves on south-facing windows in spring and summer. In the warm season, the montera can easily grow away from a well-lit window, but in the cold season it needs maximum light. In summer, the plant can be placed on the floor near the south window, or shaded with blinds, and raised to the windowsill in winter. All year round, without any problems with shading, Monstera can be grown on eastern and western windows; in northern windows in winter, additional artificial lighting will be needed. Variegated Monstera varieties are not grown on northern windows. Lack of light is one of the important reasons for poor growth of monstera.
Another reason for slow growth may be an incorrectly selected pot size. This applies to all plants. Although Monstera is a large vine, when replanting a small root system cannot be placed in a pot much larger. The root system does not absorb large volumes of soil well after transplanting into a pot taken for growth; it often rots, while the leaf mass does not grow, and the plant itself generally looks depressed. It is best to replant the monstera annually in a little bigger pot.
In order for the monstera to form beautiful large leaves, it needs not only light, but also mandatory upward growth, which is required by its physiology, so provide the plant with a support made of coconut fiber. You can stick young aerial roots into the support, spray it with water and a fertilizer solution so that the plant receives additional nutrition.
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Why doesn't monstera grow?
Two years ago I planted a monstera cutting. As a result, the plant produced only one leaf and no longer grows. Why? What is my flower missing?
If you haven't found an answer to your question, create your own topic in the gazebo :)
Most likely, you planted the monstera sprout in a too large pot, and now wait for the leaves to begin to grow after the roots fill the entire pot. Now you don’t need to touch the monstera, but in the spring, transplant the plant into a suitable pot.
Look at the roots. Monstera should not grow so slowly. If you planted it in a large pot, then the roots should rot from overwatering. Just try to carefully remove the roots and soil.
Monstera has a hard time taking root. My monstera also stood for a long time and seemed to freeze, and then began to grow. It grows, however, slowly. It produces only one sheet per month. So please be patient.
Monstera is really very difficult to take root, but I noticed a few tricks in its beauty. The more light a plant receives and the higher the air temperature, the faster it grows. In general, while I had it smaller (I could put it on the windowsill), the best time for it was the period when the heating was turned on :) For other flowers, this is a problem, but my Monstera was very happy during this period. The only thing I did during such a period was to additionally humidify the air around it - just have a vase with water nearby and spray it more often. And one more thing - I water the soil in it when the soil becomes dry enough, but I water it abundantly. In general, I think that you need to have a little patience - until the first aerial roots appear - the growth of the plant will be slow, but your patience will definitely be rewarded :) I don’t know how. and I really like this “tropicana”
Monstera loves warmth, sun, fertile soil and moisture. Try to create such conditions for her and she will begin to grow. It turns out that you are missing something for her, so she froze and waited.
Monstera doesn't grow
– The question is: why does Monstera grow poorly? Five years ago we were given a 20-centimeter monstera sprout in a pot. They “scared” that soon there would be nowhere to put it - it grows very quickly (up to 1.5 m per year). But she’s been with us for five years now, and she hasn’t even grown to a meter. The leaves are large, dark green, five or six on the trunk. The distance between the leaves is 3-8 cm. The leaf dies at the bottom and grows at the top. It grows very slowly. What could be the reason?
For Monstera to produce good growth, it needs rich, nutritious, well-permeable soil with a good drainage layer. And very large dishes. As the monstera grows from a sprout into a huge vine, replanting may be necessary every three to four months. You cannot plant it straight from a test tube into a bucket; you must gradually increase the size of the pot by 2-4 cm in diameter so that the roots densely fill the entire earthen ball. 8 cm between the leaves is already too much: it means the plant is stretching. It needs to be placed closer to the sun. Do not cut off the aerial roots; direct them into the ground or into test tubes with water suspended from the vine itself. Stunted growth is associated with a lack of nutrients and almost complete darkness in winter. If a monstera produces the top leaf, and the bottom one immediately dries up, it means that it is starving and eats its own old leaves, feeding the young ones. Do not touch the drying leaf yet, let it all wither. In the spring, you can replant or start fertilizing with fertilizer for decorative deciduous plants, alternating a crown growth stimulator and a root growth stimulator. My monstera grew from 40 cm to 1.5 m in about a year only on constantly replaced fatty nutrient soil. She lives in the bathroom, where there is high humidity - just what she needs. Now I have deliberately reduced watering to a minimum and do not plant it in a larger pot so that it stops growing.
why does monstera grow poorly?
Monstera does not grow. There's nothing wrong with her, she's green and beautiful, but! There are few new leaves and they are not very large.
Solovyova(Fedotenko) Albina Thinker (9097) 6 years ago
Plant care:
Monsteras are installed in a lighted place, but in summer they need shading from direct sunlight. Many consider the monstera to be a plant that easily tolerates shade, but in order to bring the conditions for keeping monstera in the room closer to those they have in their homeland, it is better to give them enough light, place them near windows (except for southern ones, although there is light near windows facing north she may not have enough). When the monstera is kept in bright, diffused light, the leaves of the plant become larger and more chiseled. If the plant's new leaves become smaller and do not become sharp, and the aerial roots become thin and weak, then this indicates a lack of light. Adult plants are sensitive to changes in light, so do not change the usual place for the monstera without special reasons.
Monsteras are undemanding to heat (the higher the room temperature, the faster growth occurs). Active growth begins at a temperature of 16°C, the optimal temperature is about 25°C. In winter, the plant can tolerate short-term cooling down to 10-12°C, but the optimal temperature in winter is 16-18°C. Monsteras do not tolerate drafts well in the autumn-winter period.
In spring and summer, water the monstera abundantly with soft, settled water as the top layer of the substrate dries. In autumn, watering is reduced; in winter, it is watered moderately, two to three days after the top layer of the substrate has dried. Excessive moisture should be avoided, otherwise the leaves lose their decorative value (they appear dark spots) and root rot often occurs. At all times, the earthen coma should not be allowed to dry out.
Plant leaves should be regularly sprayed with soft, settled water. room temperature and periodically wipe with a damp cloth to remove dust.
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Monstera grows poorly
Garden lighting - according to all the rules
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Why doesn’t Monstera grow at work per year? 1 leaf grows, we regularly water it with fertilizers
Monstera is one of the magnificent vines growing in the room.
In good conditions it grows 3-5 m.
You can choose a container for planting monsteras, and larger ones, don’t forget about the support.
Monstera is a plant of tropical rainforests, so it feels great when elevated temperature and humidity.
Location. feels good opposite a south window; it is better to cover the monstera from direct sunlight.
It is ideal to place the plant next to a window facing east or west. There is enough light here and direct sunlight will not burn the leaves. Monstera is quite shade-tolerant, but it is better not to use northern windows. If there are no other windows, then it is advisable to highlight it.
Usually only young plants are replanted because It is difficult to transfer a large plant into a new container. Monstera is a large plant, so it will require a lot of space.
Watering should be regular and plentiful. In winter, water carefully to prevent the soil from drying out. The higher the air temperature, the more abundant the watering.
Don't forget to wash the leaves and wipe them with a soft cloth. In the spring and summer, feed with fertilizers for decorative and deciduous crops, once every two weeks. Monstera leaves can be coated with a special spray to give them shine.
The plant responds very well to spraying
Maybe you haven't installed aerial roots. They need to be stuck into the ground or into a special tube with damp moss.
There may be several reasons: planted in too large a pot, lack of light. It is necessary to plant in a small pot with a large layer of drainage. You need diffused light, but not direct sunlight. Water after the earthen clod dries halfway.
There are few leaves for one reason - not enough light. Monstera is not at all afraid of direct sunlight. The more light, the larger the leaves and the more luxuriant it grows. But I don’t recommend taking large dishes and replanting them often is not necessary. Excessive watering is also undesirable. Water and feed moderately. This is my personal experience. I have been growing Monstera for 20 years.
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Why doesn't monstera grow?
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Monstera
Species of the genus Monstera - Monstera:
Monstera: monstrous beauty!
Monstera cannot be confused with any plant. Although it is quite unpretentious and can easily be found both in apartments and offices, the round leaves with holes and the powerful curly stem will not leave a true lover of indoor floriculture indifferent. Of course, it is especially pleasant to grow a capricious, pampered flower and thereby confirm your plant growing qualifications, but even such strong and unpretentious plants are no less interesting, especially from a botanical point of view. After all, its appearance evokes thoughts of the tropics, bizarre landscapes, and botanical greenhouses. Elegance and charm keep this amazing plant Popular among indoor gardening enthusiasts for many years.
Of course, no one is going to compare a beautiful tropical plant with a monster. Its name simply speaks for itself: Monstrum translated from Latin as “monster”, but another Latin word from which the name monstera may have come from is monstrosus, means "amazing".
Indeed, looking at this plant, there is something to be surprised about. It probably accounts for the most a large number of myths, absurd fictions and fables. It all started from the moment when Europeans, exploring the South American tropics, first saw a mysterious tree. His, to put it mildly, unusual appearance greatly frightened the discoverers. Europeans were especially impressed by the powerful adventitious roots. Sometimes, hanging down, they could grow through the skeleton of an animal or person.
Naturally, it seemed that the death of the unfortunate man came precisely from this terrible plant. The researchers were also amazed by how the strong vine entwines other trees and rises upward. For some reason, it immediately seemed to them that such a plant must surely kill all living things around, including people. Legends began to appear about vampire plants that entangle their victims with roots and suck out all the juices. Only later did it become clear that adventitious roots are needed for the same thing as ordinary roots: to absorb moisture with mineral elements and to hold onto support.
Monstera, like any vine, climbs up the host plant. Aerial roots are used to attach to it. Very often, if a root that is beginning to grow does not meet any support, its growth will simply stop. On the other hand, aerial roots often grow downward. Sometimes this is the only way out for a seed that gets onto the bark of a tree with bird droppings. To obtain minerals from the soil, the plant has to grow roots, which, when reaching the ground, form sucking hairs through which they obtain nutrition and water.
At first, Monstera was classified as a Philodendron and only then was it given a special generic name. A young plant can often be confused with a philodendron because in the early stages of development its leaves do not have the characteristic notches. Therefore, many plant growers have even identified a special species - Philodendron pertusum, which is essentially a monstera at an early stage of development and has no relation to the genus Philodendron.
This unusual plant came to Europe quite a long time ago, at the end of the 18th century, and, as we see, it took root quite well. Nevertheless, various conjectures and fables are still being made up. For example, it is believed that Monstera - energetic vampire and steals the energy of the apartment and its inhabitants. Probably, many people have heard that it can only be grown in large rooms, and never in rooms and especially in bedrooms.
There is some truth in this statement. The fact is that Monstera grows quickly, and probably no one will like it if in 5-6 years it takes up the entire space of the room. But this is true for all large plants. No other vampire habits were noticed. A huge number of gardeners successfully grow it in apartments. On the contrary, according to some data, monstera purifies the air and promotes its ionization.
My growing story
Monstera has been growing for me for a long time and successfully. Moreover, at first she settled in the depths of the southern room, was planted in a large pot and grew at an amazing pace, quickly turning into a giant. Then, due to its enormous size, it was donated, and a small shoot remained on the east window, where it successfully exists to this day. True, I had to plant it in a small pot and reduce the transplants, as well as periodically shorten it, and therefore it is in no hurry to increase in size.
Don't be surprised, the monstera is also blooming. Its inflorescence is very large (25 cm), white and resembles spathiphyllum or calla lily, it is a spadix with a veil. Unlike the philodendron, each flower contains both male and female organs.
Some authors (for example, R. McCallister) say that it is almost impossible to achieve flowering at home, others (K. Rücker) argue that, observing all the conditions of agricultural technology, this is quite possible, but only very old plants bloom. I don’t know who’s right; I personally haven’t seen any flowering yet. On the Internet, too, there are very few references to this wonderful phenomenon at home.
Monstera also produces fruits similar to an ear of corn, 20-25 cm long, and in its homeland it is grown precisely for this purpose and is even called the “Mexican bread tree.” According to reviews, they taste like pineapple or banana.
But unripe fruits contain calcium oxalate and can cause throat irritation and even allergies; they should not be consumed by people with kidney disease. Therefore, if you are offered to try a monstera fruit, first make sure that it is ripe and yellow in color.
Monstera loves a lot of light, but it should not be direct. The ideal option is an east window. In rooms with a south window it can be grown in the back. There is an opinion that monstera is shade-tolerant and can grow on a north window or in the darkest corner of a room. Of course, in the absence of lighting, your plant will not die, but it will not look its best. The stems will be elongated, the leaves will be small and without characteristic holes. Bright sun on a south window is also not the best option. In this case, the plant should be shaded.
Monstera requires constantly moist, but not wet soil. Water for irrigation should be settled and, preferably, soft. It can be poured into a tray. Drainage from expanded clay or broken shards is required; moisture in the pot should not stagnate. In winter, watering should be rare, and in summer more abundant, but waterlogging can lead to rotting.
An adult plant requires regular fertilization in the summer at least 2 times a month, although young shoots, according to J. Van der Neer, feel great without additional fertilizing.
O. Ganichkina recommends “Effecton for home flowers”, “Lingogumate”, “Agricola”, “Nitrophoska” or potassium sulfate and superphosphate. There is an option to apply less fertilizer, then you can reduce the growth rate. But another plant response to the lack of feeding may be yellowing of the leaves and their falling off. When the temperature drops, fertilizing should be stopped.
An important condition for the normal existence of monstera is regular wiping of its huge leaves. This is the only way it can photosynthesize efficiently and grow quickly. Some fans advise rubbing the leaves with milk, but I have not tried this yet.
The plant requires high humidity, so it should be sprayed regularly. It also tolerates dry air for a short period of time, but the most favorable would be a humidity level of at least 60%.
Everyone knows about the amazing feature of monstera that releases droplets of moisture on the surface of its leaves. Botanists, by the way, call this phenomenon guttation. The fact is that in its homeland, monstera grows in conditions of very high air humidity. We know very well that the root of any plant constantly absorbs moisture from the soil and pumps it into the leaves, from where it evaporates. Well, how can Monstera do this when the air around is already saturated with water vapor?
Any physicist will tell you that evaporation is very bad under such conditions. That’s why Monstera came up with the idea of releasing excess water in the form of droplets flowing down the leaves. By the way, many other plants do this, for example, calla lilies (Zantedeschia). IN room conditions they have little need to behave this way.
Only when there is a strong increase in humidity (just before rain) does the plant return to its beloved tropical habit. So, with the help of a live barometer, we can find out about the approach of rain. Sometimes the release of moisture may indicate waterlogging of the soil. If no rain is forecast, but your flower is nevertheless “crying,” you should reduce its watering.
Monstera is a rather heat-loving creature. At temperatures below 16°C it stops growing, and temperatures below 12°C are harmful to it, although it can, in principle, tolerate a temperature drop to 10°C, but then watering must be reduced as much as possible. Therefore, it should be removed from the balcony first in the fall.
It should also be noted that the Monstera variety “variegata” (with edged leaves) is more thermophilic. In general, the higher the temperature, the more intense the growth of monstera, however, at temperatures above 25°C it is especially important to maintain high humidity.
A light but fertile substrate, reminiscent of Saintpaulia soil, is required.
The soil in the rainforest where Monstera grows is made up of forest floor, rotting wood, compost, animal manure and charcoal from fires. It would be nice to create some similar substrate at home. Monstera will prefer to grow in loose soil that quickly drains water.
Watering is enough just once a week. Maintain the pH value neutral (6.5-7.0).
Most literary sources give the following composition: 1 part peat, 1-2 parts humus (leaf soil), 1 part coarse sand or perlite. Some books recommend adding up to 2 parts of turf soil. Professionals advise adding sphagnum and up to 40% bark and coal to the substrate, which we usually use when growing orchids.
However, for many gardeners, the most acceptable option would still be to use ready-made soils for monstera and palm trees, the Terra mixture. In general, South American farmers claim that Monstera grows in almost any soil and only cannot tolerate excessive salinity. When transplanting, drainage is required, as stagnation of moisture can be destructive.
Most sources give advice to replant a young plant every year, then once every 1-3 years. Some authors do not recommend disturbing it too often, since the roots do not react well to damage that may occur during transplantation. However, it is difficult to imagine how large the pot should be when planting “for growth”. The growth process is very fast and the pot must be quite large. There is a danger of soil acidification.
It is probably still better to replant as it grows, but do it very carefully, trying not to damage its delicate adventitious roots. By the way, they should never be cut off, and as they grow, you should try to direct them towards the ground, and then sprinkle them with soil. If you cut off the adventitious root, the plant, of course, will not die, but it will not receive additional nutrition and support.
It should be noted that even with the help of all its adventitious roots, Monstera, unfortunately, will not be able to gain a foothold in the soil. Since it is a vine, support is required. You can use the now widespread sticks wrapped in coconut fiber. And the best option would be tubes filled with moist moss, from which the monstera could consume additional moisture with the help of adventitious roots. In adult plants that have reached 1 m, instead of replanting, you can change the surface layer of soil (2.5 cm).
There are no special difficulties during cultivation. The plant is rarely affected by pests and only the most careless gardeners manage to destroy it. However, if the monstera leaves turn yellow, then this is characteristic feature the beginning of rotting of the root system. This especially often occurs as a result of excessive watering in winter. In this case, you must immediately stop watering.
If the leaves turn yellow slowly and starting from the tips, this indicates insufficient mineral nutrition of the plant. A sign of insufficient feeding is also weak growth, small, not perforated leaves, and a stem bare at the bottom. These same signs indicate a lack of lighting. If leaves develop brown, dry tips, it is caused by dry air. Brown spots may indicate poor watering of the plant. Pale leaves indicate excess sunlight. Yellowing and falling lower leaves are, unfortunately, a natural phenomenon: as they grow, the lower leaves are shed.
Despite its resistance, the plant can be affected by pests. The main enemies are the insidious scale insect and the evil spider mite. Scale insects can be recognized by brown plaques on the stem and leaves. It is very difficult to fight her. The most important thing is to mechanically remove all these plaques by cleaning them, for example, with a cotton swab moistened soap solution. This should be done regularly for two to three weeks. But it is possible to completely get rid of scale insects in this way only at the very early stages of infection. In most cases, the plant needs to be treated with insecticides.
A sign of a spider mite is small brown spots on the underside of the leaf and small cobwebs, which are sometimes very difficult to notice. The most formidable pest is very difficult to see. If there are still few mites, it is enough to wipe the leaves of the plant with a soap or alcohol solution (the alcohol should be no more than 60% concentration to avoid burns). Further prevention will be periodic spraying and washing, since ticks do not like high humidity. If the damage to the plant is severe, insecticides cannot be avoided. Sometimes young shoots are attacked by mealybugs.
Monstera is very widespread and easily propagated, so few people buy it in the store. However, there are now magnificent Dutch-made examples on sale. When buying them, you need to follow the usual rules: carefully inspect the plant for pests and rot. There is no need to rush to replant the plant. You should wait at least a month.
Easily propagated by cuttings. It can be propagated by any part of the stem that requires the presence of at least one, or preferably 2-3, leaves. You need to cut it somewhere 1.5 cm below the leaf, dry the cut a little, and then root the cutting.
You can root the cuttings in a light mixture of perlite and peat, or place the stem on the surface of the soil, securing it with some kind of staple. It is necessary to cover the cutting with polyethylene or a jar, if the leaf is small, place it in a place illuminated, but not directed by light, or under a lamp. The rooting temperature should be 24-26 degrees. When signs of growth appear, the shoot must be transplanted into permanent soil. They say that it is very easy to root a cutting just in a glass of water, but just in case, it is better to add activated carbon to the water to avoid rotting.
For Monstera breeders, its rapid growth always brings a lot of trouble. And here the only measure is to trim the top part, which can then be rooted and given to anyone.
D. Longman suggests this method of propagation by apical cuttings: cut off the top (the apical and lower-growing leaf just above the third leaf). Next, take a jar of water, 2/3 full, and put 3-4 pieces of coal on the bottom (tablets will do activated carbon). Cover the jar with foil, tie the bottom with an elastic band, make a hole in the foil into which to insert the cutting. Keep warm until roots appear, and then plant in soil. At first, keep it covered with film.
Monstera can also be propagated by air layering. To do this, you need to make an incision on the surface of the bark, below the leaf, at a height of more than 60 cm from the soil surface, and sweep the area of the incision with damp moss; soon new roots will appear there.
Holes in the leaves of a young plant do not appear immediately, but only starting from the 4th, 5th leaf and only if there is enough light.
Monstera is a plant that can easily tolerate your absence for 3-4 weeks. Before leaving, it must be watered generously and placed in a tray. The soil surface should be sprinkled with wet expanded clay and shaded from the sun should be provided.
Monstera is located 30th place in the recommendation rating and has the following qualities:
Caring for Monstera at home
Monstera – indoor plant, which has more than fifty varieties. The flower is unpretentious, so caring for monstera at home does not cause any difficulties.
Florists love this plant. Thanks to its bizarre shapes and rather large size, Monstera has become widespread. If you look closely at photographs of monstera, you can see large, oddly shaped leaves. I think it was because of them that it got its name.
Growing monstera in apartment conditions is not difficult, but a novice gardener may have difficulties, since it is still necessary to follow the standard rules.
Secrets of caring for monstera
- Temperature. TO temperature conditions Monstera is not picky, grows and develops faster at high air temperatures. In the warm season the temperature is 22-25 degrees, in winter – 17 degrees is plenty. Monstera will survive even 10 degrees, but in such conditions it will stop growth and development. Drafts are detrimental to a flower.
- Lighting. I do not recommend keeping the pot on a northern windowsill, since the monstera grows poorly in low light conditions. As for southern window sills, in this case protect the monstera from the sun's rays. The ideal option is bright but diffused lighting on western or eastern windows.
- Humidity. Monstera has large leaves. Consequently, a large area of evaporation. Spray the flower constantly, which will have a positive effect on the condition. I recommend using water at room temperature. Keep an eye on the leaves and promptly remove accumulated dust with a damp cloth.
- Watering. This exotic likes water, especially if it’s summer outside. During this period, water abundantly, focusing on the level of dryness of the soil layer. Settled, soft water is suitable for irrigation. In autumn, reduce watering, and in winter, carry out the procedure two days after the soil dries. Avoid overwatering, otherwise it will lead to rotting of the roots and the appearance of spots on the leaves.
- Top dressing. Monstera, like dracaena, needs feeding. During the spring and summer season, feed twice a month to avoid slow growth. It is not necessary to feed young specimens. It doesn’t hurt to prop up the flower and pull the leaves with a rope. If the old plant is not growing, prune it. As a result, side shoots will begin to develop faster.
- Aerial roots. Monstera feature. They can be found on every leaf, but I do not recommend cutting them off. Place the roots in an additional pot filled with nutritious soil. If the roots are short and it is impossible to place a pot under them, lower them into a hanging bottle of water or wrap them in damp moss.
- Bloom. Under natural conditions it blooms annually. In an indoor environment, it is almost impossible to achieve flowering. With normal nutrition and proper care Monstera is able to please with the first large inflorescences at the age of two.
If you provide the flower with proper care and attention, it will decorate the interior of any room, be it a living room or a kitchen.
Exist different kinds plants, but housewives at home grow “attractive monstera.” The genus of the flower is diverse and has several dozen species that are naturally found in the South American tropical forests.
6 most famous species of monstera
These are all monstera species that deserve attention. Having looked into a flower shop, you can easily buy any of them. If the flower is not on sale, pay attention to croton. Just remember, it is more demanding in care.
Monstera reproduction
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- Root system rotting. The reason is excessive watering or watering with cold water.
- Leaves turn yellow, without signs of rotting or wilting. The reason is that the flower needs feeding using complex fertilizers. It won’t hurt to periodically update the top layer of soil with the addition of humus.
- Pests. If the leaves are covered with light dots, it means that the monstera has been infected by the Thrips pest, a colony of which can be found on the back of the leaf. Insecticides will help cope with thrips.
- Young leaves bend, dry out and fall off. The reason is a mealybug pest. You can solve the problem with the help of a soapy rag, which is recommended to wipe the stems and leaves. Afterwards, treat the flower with a 0.15% Actellik solution.
- Lifeless and limp leaves with the appearance of cobwebs. The reason is spider mite infestation. To destroy the pest, use spraying and wiping with a soap solution. In case of severe defeat, Aktellik will come to the rescue.
- Leaves dry out and fall off, brown plaques appear. The reason is a scale insect attack. To combat the scourge, the methods described in the paragraph about mealybugs are suitable.
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If floriculture is your hobby, and Monstera is your favorite ornamental plant, there will be no problems with reproduction. And all because doing what you love brings pleasure, and in this case it is easier to get results.
Problems in breeding
If you want to grow monstera, information about common breeding problems and their solutions will be useful.
Monstera will automatically report problems. Excess moisture leads to large-scale yellowing of leaves; their gradual yellowing indicates a lack of nutrition. If there are few leaves at the bottom of the stem, it means there is not enough light, and their massive drying out gives a hint of high temperature in the room. If you are thirsty, monstera will indicate this by the appearance of brown spots on the foliage.
Monstera: queen of the interior with a quirky appearance
Today monstera is one of the most popular colors in interior design. In order to occupy a high niche in the hierarchy of indoor species, the plant had to go through a difficult path. Possessing gigantic dimensions, this tropical liana actively inhabited the South American jungle, densely entwining trees. The first travelers who studied the flora of South America, encountering the wild world of the tropics, spread the most incredible legends around the world.
Some of them could see the following picture: a powerful vine, its tentacles digging into the skeleton of a person or animal lying under a tree. This is how the Old World learned about the existence of a terrible killer plant. Much later, scientists found out that the terrible tentacles were just the aerial roots of the plant, trying to take root in the ground, passing through everything that lay in their way. But the job was done, and the vine was dubbed “monstrum”. However, in Latin, the derivative of this word, “monstosus”, means bizarre, amazing, which is more consistent with the monstera flower that decorates our interiors.
In the Araceae family, the genus Monstera Adans is represented by 50 species of large vines, with carved leaves of varying lengths, from 25 to 60 cm. They wrap around tree trunks, stretching up to 12 meters in height. In the photo, the monstera does not look at all like a liana, but this is not its fault, this is the merit of the flower growers who provided the plant with supports and forbade it to curl. Paradoxically, thanks to a little trick, we got indoor “monsters” of amazing beauty.
Tip: use special tubes covered with artificial moss to support the plant. They organically suit the monstera without interfering with its decorativeness.
Proper care of monstera
To cope with a beauty that is accustomed to climbing, you must scrupulously follow all the rules for caring for a monstera at home, recommended by plant experts.
Temperature
Despite its natural heat-loving nature, the flower tolerates temperatures of +20-25 degrees. If you want your pet to actively grow, add heat, that is, provide it with a temperature of +25 degrees during the growing season. In winter, when frost and cold reign in the temperate zone, make sure that the thermometer next to the plant does not fall below +10.
Important: do not allow the plant to be in a draft, especially in the autumn-winter period.
Illumination
Monstera loves bright but diffused light. With its deficiency, the leaves become smaller and lose their visual appeal. When breeding at home, place your pet on an east or west window, protect from direct sunlight.
The choice of substrate is very important point for proper plant development. A young monstera needs soil with neutral acidity (Ph 5.5), consisting of two parts of humus, and one part each of sand, peat and turf soil. For an adult vine, the acidity is increased to 6.5-7.0, three parts of turf soil and one part each of humus, sand, peat and deciduous soil are introduced into the substrate.
Watering should be plentiful from spring to autumn. If you notice that the top layer of soil has dried out, urgently water the plant. As winter approaches, reduce the frequency of watering; let your pet drink two or three days after the soil has dried. Spraying is mandatory for monstera. It’s even better if you regularly wipe the leaves with a damp cloth.
The frequency of transplants depends on the age of the plant. The first years of life, the monstera is transplanted annually; at 3-4 years of age, this is done with an interval of two years. After 5 years, transfer to a new pot is carried out every 3-4 years. Monsteras prefer wide and deep containers.
Advice: given the long breaks in replanting adult plants, periodically add soil to the pot where your pet lives.
How to propagate monstera
Reproduction of monstera does not cause difficulties for most gardeners. Most often, apical or stem cuttings formed after pruning are used for propagation. They take root easily and form new shoots from dormant buds.
For propagation, you can also use side shoots that have formed on the stem from buds and have already formed several aerial roots. This method is the simplest, but is not used often, because... When the shoots are removed, the trunk is exposed and the plant loses its decorative effect. You can try to propagate Monstera using leaves; the success rate of rooting when using this method is much lower, but there is still a chance of getting a new plant.
When kept at home, it is almost impossible to make a plant bloom, so propagation by seeds is possible only if you can find them on sale. It is not difficult to obtain seedlings, but it is worth considering that the seeds lose their viability very quickly.
Monstera pests and diseases
Monstera has no obvious enemies eager to feast on the plant. Sometimes it can be attacked by spider mites, but these can be easily controlled with insecticides. Improper care of monstera has a much more negative effect on the plant.
Brown and drying leaves mean your pet lacks moisture.
When waterlogged, the monstera cries and its roots rot.
By the way, if everything is in order with the soil, but the monstera is “crying,” it means that it will rain soon or you have high humidity in your apartment. For this unusual property, the plant is sometimes called “crybaby”.
Myths and facts about the character of the monstera
Even though caring for a monstera is not difficult, many are afraid to bring it into the house. Of course, no one considers it a killer plant, but some of the negative abilities of the vine are often voiced. We will also figure out whether it is possible to keep a monstera at home and what its “bad” behavior is expressed in.
There is a prejudice that the amazing tropical liana is an energy vampire. And indeed it is. The only difference is that the monstera does not stretch vitality On the contrary, it absorbs negative emotions from a person, purifying and ionizing the air.
It is also true that such a large plant absorbs a lot of oxygen. Because it does this at night, idle people accuse the vine of being able to “strangle” its owner. The process of photosynthesis also refutes this myth. During the day, the monstera gives off so much oxygen that it is enough for ten.
Girls are not advised to have Monstera. There is an opinion that it destroys the aura, changes fate, and the young housewife cannot get married while a liana grows in her house. And who counted how many single girls got married after getting rid of an innocent plant? And again a mystery.
All the assumptions about why you can’t keep a monstera at home have been expressed by the people, and now let’s see what science says about the amazing properties of the plant.
Monstera is capable of absorbing formaldehyde, which is harmful to the human body, which is contained in some building materials.
It releases biologically active substances that destroy viruses and bacteria.
Monstera leaves effectively trap dust particles, making the indoor air cleaner.
The plant, by releasing special substances, helps its owner endure stressful situations more easily and provides him with a restful sleep.
Who to believe, popular speculation or scientifically based facts, is up to you to decide. What there is no doubt about is the natural attractiveness of the South American vine, which is only to blame for the fact that it was born so beautiful.
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One of the most beautiful indoor vines is Monstera. Caring for this plant at home requires knowledge about the characteristics of its growth. Its homeland is South America. Today the vine is common in tropical rainforests around the world. Its leaves amaze with their carved patterns, dotted with beautiful holes and slits.
There are many species of this plant from the araceae family. But a familiar species in indoor floriculture is the delicious monstera, or attractive monstera (lat. Monstera deliciosa).
Monstera in nature reaches several meters in length (height). In a greenhouse or in a large, bright house, it can also grow to this size. The vigor and vitality of the vine are amazing.
Its almost half-meter-long leaves are leathery and shiny, the holes in them form intricate patterns. There are different points of view on why vines have holey leaves. Most likely, the holes in the leaves reduce the sunlit surface of the Monstera leaf. Young plants have solid leaves, similar to philodendron leaves. Only the mature leaves appear in all their carved and perforated glory.
Monstera is shade-tolerant, like all tropical vines. It will be content with diffused lighting, but will grow poorly in a completely dark corner. With its aerial roots, the vine clings to supports in order to grow vertically, and feeds by lowering them into the ground.
In indoor conditions, the vine blooms very rarely. Monstera flower is a spadix with a white or cream veil. The monstera fruit ripens within 14 months. All this time, the plant should receive uniform lighting and adequate nutrition. The fruit looks most like a large ear of corn or an elongated pineapple. It also tastes like pineapple, banana and mango together. An unripe fruit can cause a burn to the mucous membrane. 
How to grow a beautiful and healthy monstera
- Choose a bright place for the flower, where the burning rays of the sun will not reach. This can be an eastern, western or northern window sill. On a south window, the plant needs to be shaded. An adult vine can be placed at some distance from the window.
- Do not place the plant near a central heating radiator. The liana is very hardy and tolerates dry air, but near radiators its leaves turn brown at the edges and can dry out. If there is no other place, you can try spraying monstera twice a day.
- Monstera does not tolerate temperatures below 12 degrees. If the winter is colder than 16 degrees, the plant's growth slows down and watering should be very poor. You just need to make sure that the soil does not dry out.
- Watering the flower in the warm season is plentiful. The soil should be slightly dried between waterings.
- You need to choose a pot for Monstera that is tall or equal in diameter and height. This will make the plant more resilient. For the same purpose, it is better to choose a heavy clay pot for monstera.
- The soil for monstera is selected to be nutritious and not very heavy (in its homeland it grows in leaf humus). You can buy universal soil or soil for palm trees. It is useful, but not necessary, to add leavening agents (perlite, vermiculite, coco soil, sand). The liana will grow in ordinary garden soil, but you need to add humus to it so that the soil does not later turn into stone, and take care of nitrogen fertilizing once every 2 weeks during the period of active growth.
- Monstera replanting is needed when the roots appear from the drainage holes or the edges of the leaves turn brown. The next pot should be 2-3 cm in diameter larger than the previous one. You cannot plant a small plant in a large pot: the soil that is not developed by the roots turns sour, and the plant may die. Young plants are replanted 2-3 times a year, old plants – once every 2 years.
- For plants in large pots, you can change the top layer of soil.
- The monstera indoor plant needs support. The worst option is store-bought sticks made from pressed coconut fiber. Their disadvantage is that they are dry and do not provide the plant with additional nutrition. It is better to buy a hollow tube with holes or make it from a rigid mesh. The tube is filled with peat or coco-soil, or possibly earth. Aerial roots literally grow into the support.
- Aerial roots should never be cut off. They can be placed in a pot or on a support. Some monstera owners do without any supports at all. They attach the tops of vines to the ceiling and allow the roots to crawl around the room like brown snakes. The plant does not suffer from this at all, and the interior turns out to be very exotic.
How to propagate monstera
Reproduction of monstera at home is not difficult. This can be done in three ways:
- At the base of an adult monstera, “babies” grow. You need to wait until the aerial roots reach 1 cm, and you can carefully separate the plants from the mother. They need to be planted in small pots so that the roots quickly take over the entire soil. Small monsteras grow quite quickly and need frequent replanting.
- Another method of reproduction is used when the monstera does not produce offspring at the base. The stem of this vine tends to stretch. Over time, the plant loses its decorative effect, the lower leaves dry out, and the stem becomes bare. To rejuvenate the plant and propagate it, you need to cut the monstera stem into several parts. The stem segment must have at least 2 internodes. Over time, young leaves will appear from the top.
- The last method is propagation by air layering. To do this, you need to take a plastic bag and secure it to the bare trunk of the monstera below the internode. You need to pour suitable moist soil (peat, coco soil, light leaf humus) into the bag. Secure the package above the internode. Within a month, roots will appear in the bag. You can wait until they reach the desired length (at least 1-2 cm) and cut the plant below the bag. Carefully remove the bag and plant the plant in the ground. Survival is guaranteed. There is no need to throw away the “stump” of an old monstera left in the ground. A young strong shoot will quickly grow from it, feeding from the old developed roots.
Difficulties in growing monstera at home
- As monsteras age, the lower leaves fall off. If several leaves have fallen at once, then the conditions of maintenance have been violated. This can happen when the air temperature is high and dry in winter.
- If brown or yellow spots appear on the leaves, and the leaves themselves turn pale, this is sunburn. Such a sheet will remain damaged forever. Move the plant away from the light.
- If the leaves turn yellow, wither and even rot, then the plant is overwatered. Ambulance in this case, remove the earthen lump from the pot and place it on a stack of newspapers so that they absorb excess moisture. You can replant it in fresh soil and not water it for about a week.
- If the top leaves grow small and pale, the plant is not getting enough light.
- If there are no holes or slits in adult leaves, there may be many reasons: lack of light, moisture or nutrition, low air temperature. You can help the plant by providing its additional roots with food, directing them to a support or into the ground in a pot.
- Brown dry edges of leaves occur from dry air or when the pot is cramped.
- Leaves “cry” when the soil is waterlogged. But sometimes this happens before rain and is associated with changes in atmospheric pressure.
- Stems can rot at low temperatures and excess moisture. It is necessary to increase the temperature and limit watering. It is useful to treat the plant with a fungicide (a remedy for fungal diseases).
- Among the pests, Monstera can be affected by spider mites or scale insects. Spider mites cause brown dots to appear on the leaves, and scale insects cause bumps and sticky discharge to appear on stems and leaves. Actofite, Actellik, Fitoverm will help against these pests.
- The vine should not be kept in a house where there are small animals or children because its leaves contain crystals. oxalic acid, causing burns to the mucous membrane.
Monstera, or philodendron, is a beautiful ornamental plant that has big amount aerial roots and beautiful shiny leaves. The unique properties of this plant are associated with the ability to predict rain. Before precipitation appears, large drops can be seen on the leaves of this plant. However, Monstera is associated with a large number of myths and legends. For example, many people are convinced that this plant absolutely cannot be grown at home.
Why can't you keep Monstera at home?
Many people believe that the plant is capable of absorbing energy. There are certain advantages and disadvantages to this. If you place the potty in the bedroom, you may encounter negative influences. At the same time, many people believe in the omens that monstera can be successfully treated - just lie down near the plant for a while.
This flower should be grown in rooms where there is a negative atmosphere. Thanks to Monstera, it will be possible to improve the energy in the room. If everything is fine and calm in your house, it is better to stop growing the plant.
It is also not recommended to keep the flower in the bedroom due to the fact that it consumes oxygen and produces carbon dioxide at night. In fact, most of the signs and myths are associated with appearance flower. Thanks to its large leaves and curved roots, Monstera resembles a mystical plant.
Growing monstera at home
Watering and fertilizing
Since Monstera has fairly large leaves, the area for moisture evaporation is quite large. Therefore, the flower needs regular hydration. To do this, you need to constantly spray it with water at room temperature. Monitoring the condition of the leaves is of no small importance. If dust accumulates on them, it should be removed with a soft cloth.
Monstera should be watered systematically, especially in spring and summer. In this case, watering should be sufficiently abundant and carried out after the top layer of soil has dried. Monstera should be watered with settled water.
In autumn, the number of waterings should be reduced, and in winter this should be done a couple of days after the soil has dried. Although the plant loves water very much, it still needs to be watered moderately. Excessive amounts of moisture will have the same negative impact on the condition of Monstera as its deficiency.
Monstera fertilizer is of no small importance. You need to apply special products in spring and summer, and do this a couple of times a month. In this case, it is worth feeding only an adult flower, while young plants do not require fertilizer. For monstera, you should choose organic and mineral products.
How to propagate by seeds and cuttings
Monstera propagation should be carried out at the beginning of summer or summer. This process requires several steps. To do this, you need to take the lateral shoots, which are located at the bottom of the stems. Cuttings from the top or middle part are also suitable. It is best to sprinkle the cuts with powder obtained from charcoal.
The stems need to be planted in small pots, and at their bottom drainage should be made of expanded clay. The shoots should be placed in a pot and covered with a glass flask. The room temperature should be 25 degrees.
To propagate monstera by cuttings, you need to cut off a small cutting with two buds from the main stem. Then it is placed in the ground and systematically watered. It is not recommended to sprinkle the cuttings with earth - it is better to cover it with plastic wrap. After the roots appear, the cuttings can be transplanted into a separate pot.
Plant transplantation - video
Young monstera should be replanted in the spring. Large adult plants need to be replanted only once every 3-4 years. However, the top part of the substrate should be changed annually. For this purpose, you need to choose breathable soil with a high humus content. To properly transplant a plant, you can watch the video:
Features of flower care
In its natural environment, Monstera usually blooms every year. When grown at home, many people do not even know how Monstera blooms. If everything is done correctly, then a two-year-old plant can produce its first inflorescences.
Monstera flowers are white or cream in color. A year after the end of flowering, fruits appear on it. Caring for monstera during the flowering period is no different from any other period.
It is important to prevent direct exposure to sunlight, as this will cause the tips of the leaves to turn black. As the monstera grows, it needs to be provided with good support. It is strictly not recommended to remove aerial roots. They provide good nutrition and sufficient moisture. It is recommended to send them to a pot for rooting.
Monstera does not like prolonged exposure to the sun. If you keep the plant in conditions with bright, diffused lighting, its leaves become larger and more carved. Monstera should be protected from direct rays of the sun, as this can lead to paleness and the appearance of yellow spots. When there is insufficient lighting, plant growth is impaired. At the same time, the leaves become smaller and change their shape.
Monstera should be placed far from radiators and opening windows. In winter, the temperature should not be less than 12 degrees, while fast growth starts at 16-18 degrees. It is also allowed to increase the temperature to 30 degrees, especially in conditions of high humidity and normal ventilation of the room.
Possible problems and illnesses
When growing monstera, you may encounter certain problems and difficulties.
Leaves turn yellow and dry
Monstera reacts first of all to any mistakes in care by changing the shade of the leaves. They may turn yellow for the following reasons:
- if this happens in winter time, this indicates excessive watering;
- if, in addition to yellow leaves, there are brown spots, this indicates insufficient watering;
- if the leaves turn yellow and fall off significantly, this indicates high temperature and dry air in the room;
- if the monstera turns pale yellow, this indicates excess lighting.
Why is Monstera crying?
Sometimes drops appear on the leaves of the plant. This indicates excessive moisture in the earth clod. To cope with this problem, you should leave the soil to dry out a little. It is also recommended to increase the intervals between watering.
The appearance of drops on monstera leaves is often observed before cloudy weather or the onset of precipitation.
Indoor flower does not grow
Some people experience that Monstera stops growing. To stimulate these processes, you need to provide the flower with sufficient lighting and optimal air temperature. It is also recommended to moisten its leaves - for this you can spray them regularly. The soil should be watered only after the top layer has completely dried, but this should be done very generously.
Types of monstera and their description with photos
There are quite a few species of monstera in the natural environment. However, only two varieties are grown at home:
1. Delicious. In a greenhouse, the height of this plant can reach 12 m. At home, you can grow a flower about 3 m tall. With quality care, such a monstera can bloom annually, but you can only get fruits in a greenhouse.
There is also a variegated form of this monstera. It is more demanding of care, but does not grow as quickly as the main variety. The Monstera Borsigiana variety is very popular. It is also called Borziga - this plant is not as large and strong as the original species.
2. Oblique. This plant grows in Brazilian forests and has beautiful lace leaves. Their length is about 20 cm and width - 6 cm. The leaves have a solid structure, a short petiole and peduncle, as well as an unequal base. It is worth considering that such a monstera does not bloom under cultural conditions.
