The collar is an important detail of clothing that is always visible. There are classic and original types of collars; they are selected taking into account the style, material, and silhouette of the clothing. The correct shape will allow you to adjust your neckline, emphasize a slender neck or hide a short neck, and give freshness to your face.
The collar is designed to focus attention on the upper part of the body (chest, shoulders, neck), highlight facial features, give the image a unique style or protect from the cold.
This element may differ in the type of construction and stitching, original design, shape, and type of fastener. Everyone will be able to choose the right model to correct their appearance.
- There are two main groups of collars:
- One-piece, when the specified element is cut out together with the main part of the front and back.
Sewn into the neck. In this case, the collar is sewn to the clothing and has a connection seam. 
Lately, false collars have become popular and are used as an accessory to a dress, shirt, or even a sweater. The element can warm the neck in cold weather or be used to complete the look. Openwork models look good with blouses, making the look more romantic. Knitted collars are used as an addition to a jacket, coat or jacket. 
One-piece
Stitched in
Overhead
- Flat or turn down
- This type of collar opens the neck, does not have a stand, and is often made from fabric of a different color and texture. The following are considered types of flat-laying or turn-down accessories:
- Peter Pan. The model has rounded edges that gradually taper towards the back. It is used on women's shirts and dresses, which in shape and style resemble school clothes.
A turn-down collar can add lightness, romance, and neatness to an image. It is often made from openwork fabric, sometimes decorated with rhinestones, beads, and pearls.
Jack 
Lapel 
Peter Pan standing
Stand-up collars fit tightly and are often found on coats, jackets, and autumn sweaters. The classic version is made from the same fabric as the main clothing.
The most popular types of collars used in women's and men's wardrobes:
- Golf. A knitted single or double element that completely covers the neck. Found on turtlenecks, autumn sweaters, and tunics.
- Shirt rack. The shape of the collar has a dense frame, sharp edges, and covers half of the neck. This element is used on classic men's and women's shirts.
- Mandarin. The element is made of a rigid lining, it is short, has rounded edges, and is fastened with a button or snap. This type came from China, in the West it is used in military uniforms, uniforms of cooks and waiters.
- Ascot. The accessory has ribbons of different lengths and widths, which are tied in the form of a tie or bow. This collar is typical for women's blouses of office or romantic style.
- Cadet. A knitted piece that is zipped all the way, and when unfastened, becomes turn-down. Men's and women's sweatshirts and sports jackets are decorated with a soft high collar.
Golf 
Shirt rack 
Mandarin 
Ascot 
Cadet Stand-up
This type of collar is the most difficult to make. The element has a dense vertical stand and folded edges, called flaps. The main names of stand-up models:
- Shirt type with buttons. The pointed edges of the collar attach to the shirt for a more understated, elegant look.
- Polo. A turn-down gate no larger than 5 cm has rectangular edges. Made from soft material, found on a T-shirt and a knitted dress.
The accessory is made from the same fabric as a shirt or T-shirt and decorated with buttons, pearls, and rivets. 
Shirt type with buttons 
Polo
Jacket type
Jacket-type collars open up the neck and décolleté area. The item is made of thick fabric and can be folded or stand-up. Main options:
- Jacket or English. Stand-up design, stepped edges with additional turn-down lapels. The detail opens the neck and décolleté, showing off a classic shirt or blouse. Used in men's and women's jackets.
- Shawl (schalke). A turn-down collar that gradually tapers towards the neckline, forming a V-neck. This detail decorates a woman’s coat, jacket or dressing gown, and looks romantic on a classic wrap dress.
- Apache. A wide collar with folding edges reveals the décolleté and neck. The part may be asymmetrical. It is often used on a lady's coat; a woman can complement the look with a scarf or scarf.
There are collars on jackets, tuxedos, tailcoats, and outerwear; lapels can be decorated with fur. 
English 
Schalke 
Apache
Modified and fantasy
In addition to the classic version of collars, modern fashion offers many modified and fancy details.
- They allow you to add originality to the image and are used in stage costumes. The accessory is made of silk, openwork, satin, and decorated with flounces, rhinestones, and ribbons. The most interesting options:
- Jabot. The collar has large folds that run from the neckline to the chest. A shelf made of vertical flounces is used on women's dresses and blouses in a romantic style.
- Coquille. The collar complements the neck line with a large flounce, which is located asymmetrically or in a circle. This element is not relevant, but it can be found on silk or satin blouses, shirts, and dresses.
Bow. The piece is tied under a shirt-type stand-up collar. Found on women's blouses and dresses, it adds romance and flirtatiousness to the image. 
A hood is also considered a popular modification of the collar. The item is used on women's and men's jackets, coats, sweatshirts or sports sweatshirts. The element protects from cold wind and rain. 
Jabot 
Coquille
Bow
Fashion trends
- Stand-up and turn-down collars have many variations that adapt to fashion trends. Designers offer unusual cuts and shapes, returning to long-forgotten solutions, making the image more creative and vibrant.
- Medici or Raf. A high collar made of a dense frame. Decorated with rhinestones, beads, feathers, guipure. The model reaches to the middle of the back of the head. It is found in carnival and stage images, on wedding dresses.
- Bertha. A wide lapel that falls from the neckline to the shoulders can open them up. The model sometimes has an extension on the back. The accessory decorates a woman's sheath dress and blouse.
- Halter. An elegant collar that fits around the neck frames the décolleté area, leaving the back and shoulders open. Clothes with this element are suitable for slender girls.
This season, openwork collars and models decorated with beads, rhinestones, and stones remain relevant. This element complements a strict or nude look, giving the woman a flirtatious look. Men are offered a classic stance with pointed or beveled edges, the Eton model (with a rounded rise). 
Clamp 
Medici 
Bertha 
Halter
Nuances of design and finishing depending on the material
Almost all types of collars are used for blouses and dresses. A stand is suitable for a business look; a festive outfit is decorated with a turn-down version made of openwork, silk, large flounces, and ribbons. Knitted models are decorated with a collar or polo. A successful combination of a Peter Pan collar and an A-line dress.
Fantasy models are not suitable for decorating outerwear; they are used only in combination with silk or satin blouses. Classic cotton, linen, jacquard, flannel shirts are best combined with a stand-up collar with buttons.
For outerwear, collars made of the same material as a coat or jacket are used. The element is sewn from drape, wool, knitwear, and filled with padding polyester or down. The item can be decorated with leather, buttons or a brooch. Fitted down jackets and sheepskin coats can be decorated with fur collars to match the material. 
Lace 
Silk 
Ribbons 
Knitwear 
Cotton 
Linen
19:46 Unknown 4 Comments
Hello, dear readers!
Today we will learn how to process a turn-down collar with a stand-up collar.
Turn-down collar- This is a folded collar lying on the shoulders or chest.
Turn-down collars are divided into flat-lying or standing-turn-down.
Collar stand- this is a vertically located part of the collar, forming the folding part of the collar. A turn-down collar with a stand-up collar is called a stand-up collar. The collar stand can be one-piece with a collar, or cut-off.
In this article we will look at the method of processing a turn-down collar with a cutting stand, as well as the technology for connecting the collar to the product.
Cutting fabric. Let's prepare a paper stand collar pattern .
Fold the fabric in two layers with the right side inward and apply the patterns with the middle lines to the fold of the fabric. The direction of the grain thread should be parallel to the middle line of the parts. We trace the patterns and add 1cm to the seam allowances along all cuts.
We must cut each part twice, and in the end we should have two parts for the stand and two parts for the flying part of the collar, for a total of 4 parts. Using threads of a contrasting color, we will transfer the control points to the second layer of fabric, or we will lay copy stitches, and we will make notches along the lines of the middle of the parts on the seam allowances.
We sew the collar along the sour cream edges, but we will lay the stitch from the side of the upper collar along the basting, straightening the folds under the foot.
Iron the seams on both sides.
Cut off the allowances in the corners.
Turn the collar right side out and sweep out the stitching seam, forming a 1-2mm roll from the top part.
Press the seam on each side of the collar.
This is the edging we got from the top collar.
We will lay two finishing lines with contrasting threads from the side of the lower collar, retreating 1 mm from the seam chip,
and then by 7-8mm.
Be sure to iron the seams.
Since the turn-down collar must bend, we will bend the seam allowances along the bottom line towards the lower collar and sweep them in this position. Our collar will bend along this fold line.
Now we will lay out the collar on the surface and from the side of the upper collar we will place the part of the stand with the front side inward, aligning the middles of the parts. We baste the stand along the top edge to the collar allowances. It is best to lay the stitches starting from the middle of the parts: first to the right side, then again from the middle to the left, this way we evenly baste the stand.
Along the upper cut, the stand is longer than the collar, so the stand will not be basted at the side sections - these areas are intended for fastening the collar.
We sew the parts according to the outline.
Iron the seams on the rib
and iron the allowances on the collar stand.
From the wrong side of the product, we will apply our prepared part to the neck allowances with the front side inward, align the middles of the parts and baste along the lower edge of the stand to the neck of the product, starting from the middle line of the parts in both directions.
Sew the collar along the bottom line of the stand.
Iron the seams on the rib
and iron the seam allowances to the side of the collar stand.
This is what our collar and stand look like from the wrong side of the product.
Let's add the second part of the stand to these allowances with the front side inward, aligning the middles of the parts. Check that you have folded the parts correctly: the flyaway part of the collar should be located between the stand parts.
We baste the second part of the rack along the top cut, starting from the middle of the parts, but now we baste the part along the entire length of the top cut and along the side lines of the rack. The corners of the stand can be left sharp or made rounded.
We sew the second part of the rack from the side of the first part of the rack (already stitched), starting from the middle, moving towards the side lines of the drain.
Along the side cut, we lay the stitch directly along the folded allowance of the lower cut of the stand, bending the allowances of the bar so that it does not interfere with the foot.
Even the most strict and prim suit can be enlivened by some bright detail. Embroidery, voluminous cuffs, ruffles are very good for transforming ordinary clothes into festive ones. But it is the collar that can add more elegance to a simple dress or a boring blouse, which is very appropriate in a business environment. And in modern fashion, a contrasting collar is considered the most expressive element for creating a stylish and independent look. And most importantly, this accessory is very easy and simple to sew yourself. Which one to choose depends not so much on your sewing skills, but on your taste preferences and imagination.
Types of collar patterns
- Combined. This category includes stand-up and turn-down models. In both cases, the sides of the garment can be fastened to the very top or have an open end. Stand-up collars, called “shawl” collars, have solid rounded lapels. The upper part of such a product includes details of the lapels (fragments of lapel processing). The model is typical for classic shirts, jackets, coats, dressing gowns, and dress items.
- Stand-up collar for items with an open side. The stand-up collar does not contain a turn-down part (departure). The style is used when modeling blouses and dresses.
- Flat-laying turn-down collar of the undercut type. The horizontal edges of the product lie freely on the plane of the shoulders or chest area of the garment. Such models have a small stand or no standing part at all. Used in dresses, blouses, and as an applied decorative detail.
blogspot.com
Varieties of turn-down model
The products differ in size and shape, which the edges of the folded fragments have. The methods of connecting the flight parts to the standing base are also important.
The most common types of turn-down products
- "Cape". Wide, soft model. Covers the shoulders almost completely. Attaches to the neckline and is made round. Used to decorate the tops of dresses and blouses.
- "Bertha". Hides shoulders and décolleté. It is made removable or openwork, worn over dresses of a number of styles.
- Model with lapels. Wide, forming a V-shaped neck. Complemented with details of swing lapels, which are attached to the collar bottom. Participates in the design of coats and jackets.
- Shirt. A stand-up type of collar with sharp edges that are attached to the front halves of the shirt using buttons.
- "Peter Pan". A circular product with rounded, diverging edges. Relevant for dresses of a simple cut.
- Oblique. A collar whose ends sharply diverge. Convenient to wear with a tie, men's and women's shirts. It is slightly bent. Initially, men's shirts were equipped with such a starched collar. Later he moved to the composition of ladies' dresses.
- "Guys" (or sailor's). A wide model that forms a triangular cutout at the front and a voluminous rectangle at the back. Possible as part of stylized blouses, shirts, and dresses.
- Jabot. A model that forms a series of large folds from the neckline to the center of the chest or to the waist level. Suitable for retro style blouses and dresses.
- Shawl. A model that tapers from the back of the head to the center of the chest, forming a triangle. Decorates jackets, coats, dresses.
vykroika.kiev.ua
Building a model with a take-off for open sides
- Extend the shoulder section of the shelf, leading to the right side. Mark the height of the stand fragment on it.
- Along the edge of the bead, above the top loop, retreat about 1 cm and mark the beginning of the bend for the lapel.
- Make the bend according to the marks.
- Parallel to the line drawn tangent to the contour of the neck, draw a straight line upward.
- Mark the intersection points of the drawn segment with the contour of the neckline and the shoulder cut.
- From the last mark upward, draw a segment equal to the height of the stand part with an increase of 1 cm.
- From the mark of contact with the neck, as well as from the extreme point of the segment constructed before, draw an arc. Its radius is equal to the distance from the point of intersection with the neck to the uppermost point of the construction.
- On the resulting circle, set aside a distance of 2-8 cm in length. The degree of location of the collar plane will depend on this value.
- Shape the stitching area of the model smoothly with a deflection of about 0.7 cm. The deflection should fall on the segment starting at the point of intersection with the arc.
- We build a perpendicular to the line along which the model is sewn in; On it, mark the value of the width of the stand and the offset.
- From the extreme point of the segment equal to the width of the standing part, smoothly draw the contour of the bend of the stand. It should go into the fold of the lapel.
patterneasy.com
Recommendations for constructing products with overhang and open sides
- The basic rule for creating this model is to determine the amount of rise of the collar center relative to the shoulder line on the front part.
- It is important to find out exactly what the curve will be according to which the product is connected to the neck of the base.
- The section of the side from the junction with the collar to the edge of the lapel detail, as well as the flap, is designed in accordance with the style of the product.
blog.trashness.com
Building a classic model with flyaway
- Make the neck of the item in accordance with the configuration of the future collar.
- Draw a new outline of the neck, defining its parameters.
- Draw a right angle on a piece of paper.
- From the top of the corner, draw a vertical line upward. Typically, the length of such a vertical reaches 12 cm, depending on the width of the future collar. Increasing the length of the segment leads to flattening of the folded part of the model. In the case of a combined product, choose a minimum distance of 1.5 cm.
- From the second point of the drawing, set aside half the length of the neck. The length of the neckline can be determined by folding the corresponding sections of the front and back.
- From the second construction point, draw a circle with a radius of half the circumference of the neckline. Mark the intersection of the circle and the horizontal of the initial construction angle.
- Divide the resulting inclined line into three equal segments.
- From the extreme point of the segment closest to the starting mark, set aside about 0.5 cm upward.
- Divide the rightmost segment of the inclined straight line in two.
- From the resulting point, measure down 0.3 cm.
- Smoothly draw a line for stitching in the model (an inclined straight line) according to the points set. The area where the base product is attached should coincide with the center collar line at an angle of 90 degrees.
- Determine the height of the stand for the model (3.5 cm). Set this distance upward from the second construction point.
- Using a curved dotted line, mark the fold that will divide the stand and collar flap.
- From the second mark of the drawing up, measure the desired collar width.
- In the classic model, the distance from the stand to the edge of the product is only 1 cm greater than the collar width. Add 1 cm to the last value and draw a perpendicular of the corresponding length upward, from the extreme point on the construction horizontal.
- Set aside about 5 cm to the right of the new mark. Connect the extreme point on the lower horizontal line of the drawing to the resulting point.
- Mark the flight by connecting the edge of the product with the top mark of the initial perpendicular.
blogspot.com
Recommendations for the design of classic products with flyaway
- The upper collar part in the area of the departure line should be several millimeters larger than the lower one. As the fabric density increases, this difference will increase. Such ratios of values make it possible to produce a model with a good fit.
- Before cutting, it is better to copy one design detail (the collar). Then, on another sheet of paper, this detail should be enlarged and duplicated. To increase it is necessary to add the required distance along the contour, obtaining an upper collar.
- The configuration of the ends of the model may vary depending on the style.
yesclothes.ru
Ways to highlight products with flyaways
Varieties of turn-down collars can easily be turned into a decorative detail. It is performed separately (removable) or is included in the product.
You can also focus on the collar:
- using different colors of the model parts (stand and departure);
- making a color contrast between the collar and the main product;
- decorating the collar parts with beads, rhinestones, buttons, crystals, and lace inserts.
A turn-down collar is a type of collar in which its edges lie freely on the shoulders or chest. This is one of the most common and convenient types of this addition to clothing, as it looks neat, does not interfere with movement and gives a finished look to blouses, jackets and dresses.
Types of turn-down collars
There are a huge number of varieties of these collars. They usually differ in how large the turn-downs are, what edges they have, and how the collar fits into the stand. Let's look at the main types of turn-down collars.
Cape– a wide turn-down collar, soft enough to cover almost all the shoulders. Sewn to the neckline, has a round shape, usually used on dresses or blouses.
Lapel collar- Another type of wide collar that usually frames a V-neck and has additional lapels sewn to the bottom of the collar. Most often, jackets or coats are sewn with such a turn-down collar.
Peter Pan Collar- a type of part for processing the neck, which is cut out in a circle and has rounded edges that diverge widely from each other. Being quite modest in appearance, the Peter Pan collar gives the image a special naivety and youth. Most often, dresses are made with a similar turn-down collar.
Shark, business card or collar called oblique- a type of turn-down collar that can be found on men's and women's shirts. Usually has very diverging ends, which makes it convenient to wear with ties.
Eton collar- a turn-down collar, reminiscent of a bias, which was previously used in men's clothing, but has now become more often used when sewing women's dresses and blouses. Has rounded edges.
Fashion for turn-down collars
Jackets with a turn-down collar, dresses, shirts, blouses - all this is now at the peak of fashion. The first trend that is fashionable to highlight is the use of a contrasting turn-down collar. It is usually white or black, although any other color other than the color of the fabric of the main item can be used. This collar serves as a fashionable accent and gives the item a special character. Another trend is richly decorated turn-down collars. Lace collars embroidered with beads and sequins, crystals, decorated with studs, rhinestones and spikes are in fashion. There are even special ones that successfully replace a necklace or pendant on the neck.
 |
 |
 |
Another way to make a drawing of turn-down collars.
First, we decide on the model of the dress or blouse and match the neckline, i.e. if necessary, we deepen, expand or change the shape.
For this method, you need to measure the length of the neck using the front and back patterns. This can be conveniently done using a flexible ruler or a centimeter placed on the edge. In our example, the neck length is 20 cm.
We put the front and back patterns aside and proceed to constructing the collar itself.
We start by constructing a right angle. We denote the top by point O. From point O up vertically we set aside 1.5 - 12 cm and put point B. Please note that the difference is significant between the lower and upper limits of this value. This means that the appearance of the collars will differ significantly.
When making patterns for flat-lying For collars with a low stand, a larger value of the OB segment is taken.
For high-stand collars, smaller values are taken.
The greater the distance OB, the flatter the collar will lie.
We will build two drawings as an example. One with a maximum OB distance (12 cm), the other with a minimum (1.5 cm).
The height of the stand varies from 1.5 to 3.5 cm.
Let's start with flat-lying collar
In this option, the distance OB will be 12 cm.
Let's determine the distance BA. It is equal to ½ the length of the neck, measured according to the patterns of the front and back minus the coefficient K, where K = 0.05 x OB.
In our example, K = 0.05 x 12 cm = 0.6 cm.
Now we calculate the distance BA:
20cm – 0.6 = 19.04 cm
From point B, using a compass with a radius of 19.04 cm, make a mark and place point A.
We connect points B and A.
We divide the distance BA in half. We denote the division point with the letter C. From point C, we put 1-3 cm perpendicularly upward and place point C1. The greater the distance OB, the correspondingly greater the distance CC1. In our particular case, this segment is 3 cm.
We draw the stitching line with a smooth curve connecting points B, C1 and A. Remembering that the stitching line should approach the center line of the collar at a right angle.
The height of the stand in this version will be approximately 1.5 - 2 cm. From point B up, set aside this value and place point B1.
The width of the collar can vary significantly depending on the model (6 – 14 cm). And even this is not the limit. Essentially, you decide the width of the collar, the shape of the flap, and the shape of the front ends of the collar.
In our example, we are building a collar 8 cm wide. From point B up, measure this distance and place point B2.
Let's move on to constructing the ends of the collar. For our specific case, the distance AA1 is 5.5 cm. When the distance OB changes, the segment AA1 will also change.
From point A upwards at right angles to line OA, draw a straight line, on which we set aside 5.5 cm and place point A1. From point A1 to the right at right angles to line AA1, draw a straight line, on which we set aside 8 cm and place point A2. This distance is also not a constant value.
It all depends on what configuration the ends of the collar should be. In our particular case, this distance is 8cm. We connect points A and A2 with a straight line. We draw the departure line with a smooth line, connecting points B2 and A2.
The construction is complete.
IMPORTANT. The segments AA1 and A1A2 are not constant values. For small values of the segment OB, the distance AA1 is usually calculated using the formula AA1 = BB2 + 1cm. In our example, this formula does not work. In each specific case, especially if you are moving away from classical, standard forms, do not get attached to the above-mentioned segments. Moreover, you can draw a departure line without auxiliary lines. The main thing to remember is the stitching line should approach the center line of the collar at a right angle. And only you can regulate everything else.
If you have not encountered the topic of designing collars before, do everything according to the instructions for the first time in order to understand the principle of construction, so to speak, test the scheme and understand how it works. And after acquiring the slightest skills, you will see that everything is very simple.
After making a collar pattern, it's best to test it on inexpensive fabric to make sure it looks exactly as you expected.
When making a collar pattern, do not forget about the difference between the upper and lower collar.
I remind you. The pattern of the upper collar along the departure line should be 1-3mm larger than the pattern of the lower collar. The thicker the fabric, the greater this difference should be. This is done so that when turning the turn-down part away from the rack top collar could freely go around the lower collar without tightening or deformation - that’s it. So that during the basting process the stitching line does not peek out from the side of the upper collar, i.e. for the formation of perekant throughout the entire flight - that's two. And ultimately, to ensure a good fit of the collar, and hence the appearance of the entire product.
Therefore, first copy one part of the collar from the main drawing clearly along the line, this will be the collar. And then, on a separate sheet of paper, enlarge this pattern by adding the required amount along the outer contour - this will be the upper collar.
