Hi all!

Today, dear sewing lovers, I bring to your attention the first part of the article about pockets - briefcases.

In three parts of the article about patch pockets - briefcases, we will learn how to make a pattern for a pocket - briefcase, cut out parts for it, sew them together and fit the pocket onto the product.

In principle, any patch pocket can be turned into a briefcase pocket. But is anyone worth it? The volumetric shape of such a pocket is already a very noticeable decoration. Therefore, a pocket-briefcase will look most organic if the base of the pocket is a piece in the shape of a square, a rectangle, a square, a rectangle narrowed at the bottom or top, or the same square and rectangle (or almost a square and a rectangle), but with rounded edges.

What is the difference between a briefcase patch pocket and a regular patch pocket? Volume or, if you want, convexity. That’s probably why the pocket-briefcase is called that, because when finished, on the product, it really looks very similar to a briefcase.

This volume or convexity is achieved by adding one (two) more parts to the pocket. It is called differently: placket, fold, pocket connector, rectangular strip of fabric, etc.

And the topic of today's article is a pocket - a briefcase with rounded corners (ends, edges, etc.)

The pocket is a briefcase with rounded corners and one separate additional detail.
The pocket is a briefcase with rounded corners and two separate additional details.

The pocket is a briefcase with rounded corners and one separate additional detail.

To make such a patch pocket, you need to add one more additional detail to the pattern of the pocket base. This is a rectangle whose length is equal to the length of the outer contour of the pocket pattern.

The width of the part is 2 – 3 – 4 – 5 cm and more (according to the model). The larger the planned patch pocket - briefcase, respectively, the placket is cut wider, and vice versa.

On all four sides of the additional part and on three sides of the pocket (both sides and bottom), add seam allowances 0.7 - 1.2 cm wide (according to the model). At the top of the pocket, a double hem will require 2 - 4 cm of allowance (according to the model).

When cutting, it is better to place the pattern of the additional part on the fabric so that the grain of the fabric runs along the short, transverse side of the strip. Then the part will be a little plastic along its length (along the transverse thread), which will certainly be useful when connecting parts.

The placket can be cut from the same fabric as the main part of the pocket, or from another fabric, a companion fabric or a contrasting color to the main one (according to the model).

Patch pockets – briefcases are the “exclusive right” of clothing made from dense medium and heavy materials. And sections of tissues of these types, as a rule, are not very “free-flowing”. Therefore, it is quite possible to do without processing sections of pocket parts cut from similar fabrics.

But since voluminous pockets - briefcases - are most often placed on outerwear or on clothes related to the sports style, safari style, and clothing of such types, as a rule, is heavily used and subjected to increased loads, it is still better that the cuts inside the pockets are protected.

Therefore, we treat the cut of one of the two longitudinal sides of the plank from shedding.

Fold the hem allowance at the top of the pocket to the wrong side (along the contour line). There we fold it again, in half, iron it and adjust it to the pocket (seam width according to the model).

On the additional part, turn it to the wrong side and iron one of the two long longitudinal sides of the part (from the side of the processed cut).

We fold the bar with the pocket with the right sides facing each other. And we baste it to the pocket (along the sides and bottom), with the long longitudinal side (with the raw cut), combining both parts along the contour lines.

The short transverse sides of the strap, along the line of the upper contour of the pocket, are turned to the wrong side and basted onto the pocket.

We lay a machine stitch along the contour of the pocket.

We trim the seam allowances to 0.5 cm

In places where the curves are rounded, we cut out the seam allowance with triangles.

If the outer side along the edge of the pocket (see further in the article) is not stitched to the edge, then it is better to treat the completed seam to prevent fraying.

We turn the connecting piece stitched onto the main part of the pocket to the wrong side, sweep out the edge of the pocket and iron it.

If there is a need for this (according to the model), you can lay it along the swept edge of the pocket.

Further. A pocket is placed in the place marked on the product. And combining the folded edge on the long longitudinal side of the strip and the contour line of the pocket on the product, we baste the pocket onto the product, and then stitch it into the edge.

How to secure the top side of the pocket, see below in the article.

The pocket is a briefcase with rounded corners and two separate additional details.

If the patch pocket - briefcase, discussed in the previous part of the article, simply protrudes (due to an additional part) from the surface of the product, then the pocket, which will be discussed in the second part of the article, is more like an accordion pocket.

Empty, it may not stand out much on the product. But if you put something there, then due to not one, but two additional parts, such a pocket “swells” well.

To make this type of briefcase patch pocket with rounded corners, we need to cut out two additional parts. We outline the outline of the pocket pattern, applying it to a new sheet of paper.

And at a distance (width of the slats (additional parts)) 2 – 3 – 4 – 5 cm, etc. (according to the model) from the edge of the drawn contour we draw a second contour.

Using the resulting patterns, we cut out the pocket details. There is one main part, but there are two additional ones, identical.

The connecting parts (straps) can be cut from the same fabric as the main part of the pocket, or from finishing fabrics (according to the model).

All parts are cut out with seam allowances of 0.7 - 1.2 cm.

We process the cut along the top side of the pocket and four cuts along the short transverse sides of both strips to prevent fraying.

Then, on both parts of the straps and on the main part of the pocket, we turn the seam allowance (along the line of the upper contour) to the wrong side and adjust it with a seam 0.6 - 1 cm wide (according to the model, it depends on the width of the seam allowance).

On one of the planks we process the cut and hem the allowance on the wrong side along the sides and bottom. You can read how to do this correctly in the article (second part of the article, pockets with rounded corners).

Having placed two parts of the planks face to face, we connect them together with a stitch stitch. The stitch is laid along the inner contour of the parts.

We treat the sections of connected parts to prevent shedding.

Now this entire “structure”, consisting of two stitched strips, is placed on the pocket so that the strip, the allowances on the long sides of which are not tucked, lies with the front side facing the front side of the pocket. (Between them there is a second strip stitched to the first, with a folded allowance).

The details of the pocket and the strap (one) are swept together,

and then a machine stitch is laid along the contour of the pocket and placket.

All this time you need to make sure that the strip located inside is not caught in the seam.

The seam allowances made are trimmed to 0.5 cm,

and in places of curves, allowances are cut out using triangles.

The completed seam is treated to prevent fraying (for pockets without external stitching to the edge).

Then, the strips are turned to the wrong side of the pocket, the edge of the pocket is swept out

and along the edge:

or the line is not executed at all;

So, how can you secure the now protruding pocket parts at the top?

An additional piece (strap, pocket connecting piece) can be folded in half and the side of the pocket can be stitched with a stitch in the seam, one

Along the top, in the corners, on both sides of the pocket, you can sew triangles, equilateral or elongated more downwards.

In order to more securely secure the entire upper side of the pocket - briefcase on the product, you can first sew the lower side of the strap onto the product with a stitch up to 3 cm long. The stitch is laid along the inner seam or fold.

And then the top side of the strip is adjusted to the bottom line in the seam (on top, one or two lines (according to the model)). See above in the article.

You don’t have to secure the protruding pocket at all (according to the model).

By the way, when making most pockets - briefcases with a flap - this is exactly what they do.

The pocket is a briefcase with a flap.

Often the valve is an integral part of a pocket - a briefcase. And the valve for the pocket - briefcase is done, just like on, after sewing the pocket itself.

Pockets - briefcases with rounded corners have been mastered, move on.

Good luck to all! Sincerely, Milla Sidelnikova!

GBOU NPO PROFESSIONAL LYCEUM No. 4

APPROVED :

at the meeting method. commissions

protocol no.

from "___" ___________2016

Chairman method. commissions

Zhurba E.Yu.

I CONFIRM:

Deputy director of management

Kesaeva Z.S.

« » 2016

METHODOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENT

ON EDUCATIONAL PRACTICE

UP. 04 PM.04 "Tailoring of products for individual orders"

SUBJECT : « Processing technology for individual parts

and product units ».

CLASS: « ».

Recommended for use in educational practice lessons within the framework of PKRS in the profession 01/29/05 Cutter, in order to familiarize students with various processing methods patch pocket - briefcase , formation of techniques for students to perform individual nodes; consolidation of knowledge acquired in theoretical training lessons; development of creative abilities and cognitive activity of students.

master of industrial training

Vladikavkaz, 2016

MATERIAL SUPPORT

INFORMATION SOURCES AND LITERATURE:

Trukhanov A.G. "Illustrated manual on the technology of lightweight clothing."

http:// pokroyka. ru/ karmany/ pocket- portfolio

http://godress.com.ua

Workshop on industrial training for the “Tailor” profession.

VISUAL AIDS:

Schemes, drawings, samples of processing according to sequence, samples of finished products, decorated board.

EQUIPMENT:

Work tables, sewing machines 97-A and 1022-M class, special machines 51 class, irons

M-2 and M-5.

TOOLS AND DEVICES:

Scissors No. 10-12, pincushion with tailor's pins, machine needles

№ 100-110, hand needles No. 3, 5, 7, thimble, measuring tape, cutter, tailor's chalk, box.

MATERIALS:

Various types of fabric, cushioning materials, threads: cotton No. 40-50, silk

№ 20, reinforced No. 35.

PLAN

conducting industrial training classes

1. Topic name: « Processing technology for individual parts and components of a product »

2. Name of the lesson: « Methods for processing a patch pocket - briefcase ».

3. Lesson objectives:

Educational: Consolidating the theoretical knowledge acquired during the study of PM.04 “Tailoring products for individual orders”:

PC 1.3. Maintain sewing equipment and equipment for high-tech components and products.

PC 1.4. Carry out step-by-step processing of garments of various assortments using machines or manually with division of labor and individually.

PC 1.5. Form a three-dimensional shape of a semi-finished product using equipment for WTO.

PC 1.6. Comply with labor safety rules.

PC 1.7. Use technical, technological and regulatory documentation.

PC 2.1. Perform unit-by-unit quality control of the garment.

PC 2.2. Determine the causes of defects during product manufacturing.

PC 2.3. Prevent and eliminate sewing defects.

Educating: To develop general competencies in students:

OK. 1 - Understand the essence and social significance of your future profession, show sustained interest in it.

O.K.2 - Organize your own activities based on the goal and methods of achieving it, determined by the leader.

O.K.3- Analyze the work situation, carry out technical and final control, assessment and correction of one’s own activities, bear responsibility for the results of one’s work.

O.K.4 – Search for information necessary to effectively perform professional tasks.

O.K.5 - Use information and communication technologies in professional activities.

O.K.6 - Work in a team, communicate effectively with colleagues and client management.

Developmental : Develop students’ skills:

Apply theoretical knowledge in practice;

Analyze errors during product processing;

Creative abilities of students;

Instill cultural, labor and production skills.

Methodical: Activation of students' mental activity.

4. Lesson type: Performing complex complex work.

5. Lesson teaching methods:

verbal : explanation, conversation with posing problematic questions, dialogue, additional instruction as necessary.

visual : personal demonstration of working techniques by a master, unit processingpatch pocket - briefcase b.

practical : independent work of students.

6. Place of the lesson: Training and production workshop.

7. Lesson time: 6 hours.

PROCEDURE FOR CONDUCTING THE CLASS

No.

Name of questions and their brief content

Guidelines

I Organizational part

Greeting students.

Report from the public master on the availability of students, their readiness for the lesson, completeness of tools and devices.

Mark those missing in the journal. Identified deficiencies should be eliminated if possible.

Public mechanic's report on the presence and condition of equipment.

II Induction training

Report the topic of the lesson: “Methods of processing a patch pocket - a briefcase.”

Survey of students based on the material from the previous lesson: “Types and methods of processing straight yokes.”

Distribute task cards, ask a few questions on previous topics individually, conduct a frontal survey on terminology and safety precautions.

What is a coquette? Types of yokes?

Yoke - This is a cut-off part of the upper part of a shoulder or waist product. It is one of the structural parts in the product. There are flirtscut and one-piece with the product.

What are the shapes of yokes?

Coquettes come in straight, oval and curly shapes.

The yokes are connected by: stitching, stitching, overhead and relief seams.

What types of finishes can be used when processing the bottom edge of the yoke?

The lower section of the yoke can be trimmed with edging, frill, or lace.

Explain safety precautions for manual work

Fold the yoke piece and the main piece with right sides facing inward. Align the cuts. Baste along the yoke with straight running stitchesL st = 1.5-2.0 cm, seam width – 0.9 cm. Sew the yoke with a 1cm wide seam along the yoke. Process the seam using a special machine. Then iron, iron, topstitch or topstitch, depending on the model.

Describe safety precautions when working with a machine.

The yoke can be connected to the product: with an overlay seam with a closed cut, using an undercut, stitched and stitched, using or not finishing (piping, lace, braid, frill, etc.)

Explain safety precautions when working at an ironing table.

Collect task cards. Announce grades for oral answers.

Post your grades in the journal.

Explanation of the new topic: “Methods of processing a patch pocket - a briefcase.”

Write the topic on the board.

Explanation of purpose: in this lesson, study the types and methods of processing a patch pocket - a briefcase. By the end of the lesson, everyone should have worked on a knot.

Bring to the attention of students what they will do in the lesson and what they will learn.

The briefcase pocket is a fashionable sports version of the patch pocket. Regular patch pockets can easily be converted into briefcase pockets. It can be done in various ways. Let's look at some of them:

Invite students to name for themselves which products can be used to make a pocket - a briefcase.

For rounded pockets, the effect of volume is achieved by using two strips that match the shape of the pocket.

The dimensions of the pocket depend on the model and dimensional characteristics of the product. The size of the allowances when cutting along the lower and side cuts is 0.7-1 cm, and along the top cut depends on the model and processing method (2-3.5 cm).

On the pocket pattern, draw a placket line along the outer edge of the pocket and at a distance of about 4 cm from it (1). Remove the bar from the pocket part as a separate part. Cut out the pocket and placket from fabric with seam allowances along all cuts: cut out the pocket once, and cut the placket twice.

Defects,

the straps do not match the main pocket (inaccurate cut).

Remedy: Refine the cut, recut if necessary.

Different widths of planks.

Remedy: check the width of the cut strips, check the width of the seam for attaching the strips.

Rectangular satchel pocket with one-piece pleat detail

Iron the pocket ready.

For this pocket, the effect of volume is achieved through one single piece for the folds.

The side edges and bottom edge form the outer fold line of the fold. At equal distances that correspond to the desired width of the fold (2-2.5 cm), draw two lines from the bottom and side edges of the pocket. The middle is the line of the inner fold of the fold.

Connect the vertices of the corners with a dotted line. Through the top of the inner corner at right angles to the dotted line, draw a line intersecting the line of the inner fold of the fold at two points. From these intersection points, draw straight lines parallel to the dotted line until they intersect with the outer (third) line (5). Cut out the corners along the drawn solid lines.

Cut out the pocket with seam allowances. On the side and bottom cuts - 1 cm, on the top - 2.5-3 cm.

Defects, which can arise when processing this pocket: crooked corners, different widths of slats.

Briefcase pocket with stitched straight detail for folds.

In this pocket, the effect of volume is achieved by stitching a rectangular strip of fabric.

This is the easiest way to make a briefcase pocket from a regular rounded or rectangular pocket. For a part with pleats, you will need a rectangular strip of fabric with a width equal to twice the desired width of the fold (4-5 cm), and a length equal to the length of the side sections of the pocket plus the length of the hem of the top section of the pocket.

The allowance for the top edge of the pocket is 2.5-3 cm, for the side and bottom edges it is 1 cm.

Defects, which can occur when processing this pocket:

Rounded briefcase pocket.

Iron the seam allowance along the top edge of the pocket inside out.

Adjust the seam allowance along the top edge of the pocket.

On the placket, iron the allowance of one longitudinal section on the wrong side.

Pin the other longitudinal section of the plank to the pocket along the side and bottom sections face to face.

Tuck short sections of the strap at the top edge of the pocket.

Sew the placket to the pocket.

Cut seam allowances close to the stitching, and notch in the rounded areas (7).

Turn the bar inside out. Sweep the edges.

Iron the edges of the strip (8).

Topstitch the bar to the edge (optional).

Pin the edges of the strip to the product along the alignment lines and stitch into the edge (9).

Pin the edges of the pocket and the trim.

Iron.

Stitch the side edges of the pocket from the top edge to the edge for a length of about 1 cm.

Iron the pocket ready.

The allowance for the top edge of the pocket is 2.5-3 cm or according to the model. The allowance for the side and bottom edges of the pocket is 1 cm. For the placket, you will need a rectangular strip of fabric with a width equal to twice the desired width of the fold (4-5 cm), and a length equal to the length of the side cuts of the pocket plus the length of the hem of the top cut of the pocket.

Defects, that may arise when processing this pocket:

Defects that may occur when processing and connecting any type of briefcase pocket to the product.

A) The top edge of the patch pocket does not adhere to the shelf. When attaching a patch pocket to a shelf, the side edges of the pocket are shifted to one another

b) asymmetrical arrangement of patch pockets. The locations of the pockets are not accurately marked; the pockets are processed deviating from the intended lines

Remedy: Delete the line and do it again

Remedy: Carefully chalk the pockets and adjust them. To eliminate the defect, rip off one pocket and stitch it symmetrically to the other

III Current briefing

Exercises for students to process the top edge of a skirt with a stitched belt.

Ensure that students perform operations in the most efficient ways with the least amount of errors and shortcomings.

Practical demonstration of the operation

Monitoring the correct implementation of technological techniques.

In the process of walking around workplaces, monitor the work of all students, give the necessary instructions during the observation, correct and prevent errors, and pay attention to shortcomings in the work. Do not give students ready-made instructions on how to correct mistakes, but ensure that they themselves find ways to eliminate them. Ensure proper working hours.

Monitoring the organization of labor and the workplace.

Monitoring compliance with labor safety rules

Preventing careless handling of tools and equipment.

Give advanced tasks to strong students.

Control over the quality of work performed. Explanation, advice.

Repeated demonstration of techniques and methods of performing work individually at students’ workplaces.

Individual work with weak students:

IV Final briefing

Summarize the working day.

Answer student questions

Reinforce the lesson material covered and note the degree to which the goal has been achieved.

Give a brief summary of the lesson:

a) note the discipline of students;

b) point out shortcomings in the work and typical errors;

c) identify the most active students;

d) evaluate the work of students in class.

Indicate ways to eliminate errors.

Submit grades to the journal.

Give a task for self-preparation.

Write the task on the board.

Remove jobs.

Make a journal entry about the availability and serviceability of equipment.

Assign duty officers.

By the list

Remove the training and production workshop.

Close the workshop.

Foreman __________________ Tonoyants Yu.A.

A one-piece briefcase pocket with a flap can often be found on clothing for both adults and children. Such a pocket has a three-dimensional shape, and the entrance to it is usually covered with a flap. Our master class will tell you in detail how to create a pattern and sew a one-piece briefcase pocket with a flap with your own hands.

One-piece briefcase pocket with flap: preparation for work

How to sew a one-piece briefcase pocket with a flap with your own hands? We will tell you how to sew a rectangular pocket with right corners and a flap with rounded corners. The pocket itself can be either a square or a rectangle; its size depends entirely on the design of the model. You also need to decide what the maximum thickness of the pocket will be. To provide this thickness for the pocket, an additional piece is needed: the sides and bottom. This part can be cut out separately, or it can be made whole - this is exactly the type of pocket we will talk about in our master class.

Regarding the valve, the shape of the bottom edge plays an important role. The valve can be rectangular, with rounded edges, triangular, or have an unusual, shaped edge. Another important decision is the pocket clasp. The valve can be fixed with a button, magnet or button. We'll show you how to sew a one-piece satchel pocket with a button flap. A buttonhole can be either a welt buttonhole (sewn by machine or by hand, or with facing) or an overlay buttonhole (for example, made from a tucked cord).

The choice of fabric for the pocket is determined by the design of the model. This can be either the main fabric of the product or additional material for the entire pocket or just for one part, for example for a valve. Sometimes, to highlight a flap or pocket, they are cut from the main fabric, but placed at a different angle to the fabric pattern. This technique is often used when sewing checkered or striped fabrics.

The valve consists of two layers. The bottom layer can be sewn from the same fabric as the top one. For a valve made of thick fabric, a thinner (or lining) fabric is usually used as the bottom layer.

So, let's sew a one-piece briefcase pocket with a flap with your own hands!

Pattern construction and cutting

Draw the basic shape of the front of the pocket (dark color in the diagram).

Add the desired pocket width to the sides and bottom and divide it in half. Draw diagonals (dotted lines in the photo) along the lower corners.

From the bottom corners of the pocket, draw perpendiculars to the right and left until they intersect with the first line, and then again perpendiculars until they intersect with the outer line. Cut out the resulting corner parts (white in the diagram). Draw a pattern for the valve of the desired shape. The width of the flap should be 1 cm wider than the front of the pocket.

Uncover

Add allowances to the pocket pattern: 1 cm on the sides and bottom, including cutouts in the corners. The allowance along the top edge is from 2 cm, depending on the method of processing the top of the pocket.

Cut out two valve parts, with an allowance of 1 cm around the entire perimeter.

Progress

Trim the valve part intended for installation on the underside of the valve along the sides and bottom by 2 mm.

Place the flap pieces right sides together, edges aligned, and stitch. The bottom piece will be smaller and will pull the top piece down. Trim the allowances, cut the allowances into triangles in the rounded areas.

Turn the flap out and stitch along the edge. Due to trimming, the seam will easily turn inside out. Iron.

Overcast the pocket piece as shown in the photo.

Iron the seam allowances to the wrong side. Trim any excess edges at the corners.

Iron the sides and bottom along the marked lines with an accordion, as shown in the photo.

Fold the corners diagonally and sew along the marked lines using two perpendicular lines.

Trim excess seam allowances and press to the sides. Turn the pocket inside out.

Pin the pocket using the allowances to a place on the product, focusing on the contour of the front part, outlined in advance.

Try on the valve and stitch as shown in the photo. Trim the seam allowance to approximately 3mm.

Turn the flap down, iron and topstitch, leaving a 5mm gap from the top to cover the first seam allowance.

I recently had the opportunity to sew a men's parka. Every self-respecting parka has many pockets in order to store useful little things and style in them.

Very good in men's jackets are voluminous pockets or, as they are also called,

Briefcase pockets.

A good person gets a jacket, and we get a master class with pictures. Planned and done.

First, determine what size and shape of pockets you need. And cutting them out couldn’t be easier. By the way, briefcases can also be different, but we will sew the simplest option of all.

There are only two parts: the pocket itself and a long strip on the side of the pocket.
My pocket measures 18 * 21 cm when finished, plus a 1 cm seam allowance and a 3 cm full facing.

The width of the side stripe is 6 cm (including allowances), and the length must be measured according to your pocket.

Glue the upper part of the one-piece pocket facing with light non-woven fabric.

Observe the direction of the threads: the lobe runs along the length of the side and along the burlap of the pocket.

Pin the side strip along the edge of the pocket. It is convenient to mark the middle of the parts and start chopping from the center from the bottom.

if there are rounded corners, then make several cuts along the allowances, and if the pocket has right angles, then make one cut.
Sew parts on a machine.

It is always useful to iron the seams before ironing them “on the edge”.

There was a free facing seam allowance at the pocket. Now is the time to fold the pocket and side face to face and fold the facing over them. Then stitch the facing and turn the pocket inside out.

All free cuts should be processed with overcast stitches so that unexpected threads inside the finished pocket do not bother the owner of the jacket.

Stitch along the top edge of the pocket, if necessary.

Now you need to outline the clear shape of the pocket. First of all, direct the sides inwards and press the seams edgewise, iron the corners of the pocket. If necessary, sweep the edge of the pocket before the WTO and stitching.
Stitching around the perimeter helps maintain a crisp pocket shape.

Fold and iron the side strip seam allowance. This is what we will sew to the jacket.

Make markings on the product. This must be done carefully according to the shape of the top of the pocket.

Pin the prepared pocket along the markings. Take your time, carefully aligning the sides. There should be no distortions.

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Briefcase patch pocket. Methodological development "methods of processing a patch pocket - a briefcase" A pocket - a briefcase - is a fashionable sports version of a patch pocket. Regular patch pockets can easily be converted into briefcase pockets. It can be released