The flower may be a little smaller or a little larger. That is, on the branch there is a little less muscari closer to the top, of course. We’ll do the flower again, since it takes longer to explain than to do. In fact, making a flower does not take long. That is, once again we make this edge a little narrower. On this rolled out inner part flower. And the last part - we make the edges of the flower. The distance between the presses is about a millimeter or two, so that it would be enough for us to make 5 or 6 such presses here. And then we’ll assemble the tip. Then we make 20 links, maybe a little more flowers. Our flowers are ready. I remind you once again that when the clay dries, the color of the flower becomes brighter and darker. This is especially true if you want more light color ok, then you need to mix less paint.

After the flowers are ready, we collect a sprig of muscari.
First we need to give the flower an angle. At the base of the flower, we take the wire with the tip of the round pliers and tilt the flower slightly. In muscari, the flowers are tilted even a little downward, especially towards the bottom of the branch. It’s better for us to tilt all the flowers at once, so that when we place them on a branch, they are all already prepared.

The flowers are prepared, and you can start assembling them onto the branch. We prepare the winding. After that we take the flower. Even, probably, to begin with, we will still attach our winding to the wire. We fix it under the very top. We secure the winding, pinch it with our fingers so that it holds tightly. The winding angle is less than 45 degrees. Winding on the wire, let's start assembling the flowers.

You can take two flowers to start with and secure them with winding. It is not necessary to immediately make a turn here. You can wrap part of it, and attach another flower on the other side, so that there is not too much winding on the stem. The flowers should not fit very tightly to each other on the branch. For the top row, 5-6 flowers are enough for us. After this, we make a full turn to secure the flowers again. Here you can start the second row. The second row is assembled in the same way and so on until the very bottom row. There should be a small distance between the flowers so that they do not interfere with each other. You can tilt them a little during assembly. We place the last two flowers on a branch and wind the winding until the end of the flower. The bottom edge is not necessarily straight. That is, flowers can be in such a chaotic order. We wrap the entire stem with winding. We are preparing it so that we can cover it with clay. I'll make the branch a little shorter, bend the bottom of the wire with a winding, and wrap the wire all the way around.

Now the muscari sprig is ready to be covered with clay. We need to apply latex glue. Apply glue to the top part a little under the flowers and a little below. It is not necessary to coat the entire wire with glue at once; you can coat the top part or half of the branch.

Latex glue applied. I have already prepared the clay. I mixed some grass green paint here. Take a small piece of clay. We place the clay on the stem so that it is lower than the flowers. Here we need to slightly press the polymer clay onto the stem with our fingers, so that we can lift the flowers, since they will be lowered later. We lift them a little and slightly smooth the clay here. Then we can also smooth this place with water to make it smoother. I gradually move the clay down, and here I have exactly as much clay as I need. That is, clay is needed only to create the desired thickness of the stem. Gradually the clay moves down, there is still glue under the clay. That is, the glue moves along with the clay. You can add more glue if there is not enough of it already. You can also make this movement with your fingers so that the clay settles more smoothly and is more rounded. If your branch turned out to be very thin (that is, perhaps there were few flowers, so there is not enough wire), you can apply a slightly larger layer of clay to make the stem thicker. Just as I have a narrower stem here below, that is, there is much less wire, so I can put a little more clay here. To do this, I take glue and move the clay. I take a little more clay, because I didn’t have enough here. Again I coat it with glue to the end of the stem. My flowers have dried out a little, so I can hold on to this part where we have flowers. I add a little more clay. There should not be a lot of glue so that the clay does not stick to your fingers later. If the glue leaks out, like it does here, then the clay will stick a little to your hands. When we have already covered the entire stem with clay, here we will need water in order to smooth the stem. At the top we smooth it out so that it smoothly transitions from the flowers here.

You can do this in a slightly different way. First stick around part of the stem and leave some part untouched, that is, do not stick around with clay, hold on to the lower part - where there is no clay. Then, when the part on which we have already applied the clay dries, then you can calmly hold on to it and stick to the very bottom part of the flower. Water should be used at the very end, when the clay has already been completely applied, because a large number of water can also interfere - the clay will also begin to stick to your hands. This will be undesirable. We only need water to smooth it out a little and even out the shape a little more. We smooth the very bottom tip a little so that the wire is not visible there. I'm rounding it up. After this, you can dry the stem in order to mold the muscari leaves.

Now that the stem is dry, we move on to making the muscari leaf. We need clay of the same color. The leaf may be different lengths. You can also make one or two leaves. For example, here we have one shorter leaf, one longer one. Now I'm rolling out the clay. I roll it out to approximately the length that I will have a leaf, the edge is slightly narrowed. We flatten the resulting strip with our fingers and, taking a stack, begin to roll out the strip. The length of the sheet can increase when rolling, but the leaf should not be very thin, especially where we will be glue the wire. The straight muscari leaf should be slightly bent and the tip of the leaf should be rounded. The width of the leaf should not exceed 1-2 cm. We slightly bend the edges of the finished leaf with our fingers. Now we apply latex glue to lower part leaf about one centimeter, then glue the leaf to the stem of the muscari due to the fact that our leaf is long and bends at every opportunity, we will turn our flower over and glue it calmly without fuss, lay the edges of the leaf with water. Then we give the shape of the leaf , that is, we put our flower on the table and create the shape that you personally like best and leave it to dry.

When the leaf has dried, we proceed to the final stage, namely coloring the tips of the flowers. Muscari flowers have white edges, to achieve this you will need a solvent, oil paint, zinc white and a brush. Dip the brush first into the thinner, and then into the paint and begin to apply White color along the edges of the flowers.

The result is a muscari flower in our hands, a few more efforts on ourselves and a bouquet of muscari made from polymer clay on our table.

1. Necessary tools

2. Color selection

3. Flower frame

5. Branch assembly

6. Stem

7. Applying color

To create muscari we will need : polymer clay, wire 30x12 and 24x12, round nose pliers, ultramarine light and grass green oil paints, base stack.

First, let's pay attention to the color of the muscari themselves. The color can range from soft blue to bright blue and even purple. Let's look at the photo, here you can see it - a lighter color and a darker one. It is not necessary to use light ultramarine, as we will do. For this flower you can also use dark cobalt blue or dark cobalt violet. Depending on this, the color will be slightly different.

First we will prepare the main color that we need for the muscari - this is light ultramarine mixed in polymer clay. Depending on what tone you want the flower, you mix the amount of paint. Once the main tone is prepared, we need to prepare another tone, even perhaps two tones. They will be a little lighter than that, which we have prepared. For this we take polymer clay and the clay that we have already prepared. In 1:1 proportions we stir them again. There should be very little of this clay, since it is used only for the very top of the flower. I'll make it one tone lighter. This tone is for the top of the flower, and the main mass polymer clay- for the leaves of the muscari flower themselves.

Now let's move on to the frame of the flower. For this we need 24th wire. It is thicker than the 30th, which we will use for the flowers themselves. For the frame we need half of the whole length. We will make a loop at the end. It should be long and flat. Now we need to apply a base to the tip of the wire in order to further attach the flowers that have not yet bloomed here, these will be balls. In order to make this top, we need some polymer clay. We now take the clay that is one shade lighter. We apply latex glue to the wire, and the glue should be applied to a centimeter or one and a half loops. After this, we form the top of the flower on which the balls will be located. Muscari may already be in full bloom, and then we will start it with flowers. We won't have those balls that we'll make now - we'll just have flowers. If we are making a flower with balls, we can also cut the tip a little with scissors, creating the illusion that there are also flowers that are not even flowers at all. We're just cutting the top: pretty deep cuts. They can be chaotic, they can be picked up a little with your fingers. The length of the top that we made is exactly the distance at which the balls will be. If we make the top smaller, the length of the clay here will be shorter.

After we have prepared this part, we make balls for the muscari. The balls can even be white. The balls themselves may also be slightly different. We can make two or three rows of these same balls. They are very small, you need 6-7 of them in a row. When we make the balls, they may turn out to be different sizes. This is even good, since we will make the top row from those balls that we got smaller. And we can even make the bottom row from the main tone, from which we will make flowers, so that there is a smooth transition. If you are making muscari with a white edge, then here you can make one row from the main color palette polymer clay, two rows from the middle tone and the last row from the main tone. When the balls are ready, we need to glue them to the top. To do this, we apply glue to the part where the clay is not cut. It is not necessary to smear it all at once; you can gradually add glue. Now we will place the balls here. You can pick them up with wire; we place the smallest balls on the base. So we go through the first row. How many balls you get here is individual for each person, because it depends on the size of the balls. Moreover, they can and even need to be placed and glued more tightly to each other. When the first row is completed, you can take the balls a little bigger size and make the second row.

Now you can apply glue for the third and fourth row of balls. We make the third row from medium-tone clay, slightly lighter than the main one. We will make the fourth row from balls of the main tone - darker. Latex glue dries out a little over time, so don’t forget to renew it in order to better glue the balls. We made 4 rows - the top is already ready. If there is clay at the bottom that you do not need, the one we applied to the wire from the very beginning, it can be cut off with scissors so that it does not interfere with us attaching the flowers. Later, when we have the flowers ready, we can tint the top of the flower. At this stage, the top of the flower is ready.

Let's start with the flowers. We need wire number 30. It's thinner. We cut it into four parts. You need to make a loop at the tip of the wire. Since our flowers are very small, our loop is small. There are approximately 20 to 25 flowers on a muscari branch, so we need the same number of blanks. Therefore, we will prepare 20-25 wires, now let’s move on to the flower itself. Take a piece of polymer clay. Muscari flowers are very small, so we take clay in a size similar to a grain of corn. Now we need to make a slightly narrowed ball on one side from the ball. It's not a droplet, but it's a ball with one edge a little narrower. We will roll out the flower from the side where the narrow edge is. With the thin end of the stack we press on the part of the ball where the narrow part is. Literally press just a little, don’t press all the way in. And now, so that the edges of the flower do not expand, here you can press them a little against the stack with your fingers. And thus the edges of the flower are slightly tightened. The most important thing with muscari is not to roll out the edges too much. The whole movement here is to stretch the top a little. The lower part of the flower remains dense. All we roll out is literally the top 3-4 millimeters, maybe even 2-3. Now we just have to roll out the center of the flower a little. We hold the stack so that the walls roll out without expanding. That is, here is the angle of inclination of the stack with which we roll out the wall. That is, the flower rolls out from the inside, it expands towards the center.

The edges of the flower are rolled out, we can attach it to the wire. Place the tip of the wire in glue. We pass the wire through the flower. Since the bottom of the flower is not empty, that is, there is clay there, we will have a loop of wire inside, we will hide it in the flower. That's not all, the flower needs to be decorated completely. The edges of the flower need to be slightly bent. This can be done with scissors or a stack with a thinner edge. We press - the angle of inclination is about 45 degrees. Muscari have 5 or 6 petals. Here it’s like an illusion of the very petals that we have above. That is, we press so that at the top there is such an asterisk of 5 or 6 such triangles. And also the tip of the flower will become narrower, thanks to the fact that we make such clamps. Here you can pick up a little more with your fingers.

The flower is ready.

The flower may be a little smaller or a little larger. That is, on the branch there is, of course, a little less muscari closer to the top. We'll do the flower again, since it takes longer to explain than to do. In fact, making a flower does not take long. That is, once again we make this edge a little narrower. This one has the inner part of the flower rolled out. And the last part - we make the edges of the flower. The distance between the presses is about a millimeter or two, so that it would be enough for us to make 5 or 6 such presses here. And let's pick up the tip. Next we make 20 links, maybe a little more flowers. Our flowers are ready. I remind you once again that when the clay dries, the color of the flower becomes brighter and darker. This is especially true if you want a lighter flower, then you need to mix less paint.

After the flowers are ready, we collect a sprig of muscari.
First we need to give the flower an angle. At the base of the flower, we take the wire with the tip of the round pliers and tilt the flower slightly. In muscari, the flowers are inclined slightly downwards, especially towards the bottom of the branch. It’s better for us to tilt all the flowers at once, so that when we place them on a branch, they are all already prepared.

The flowers are prepared, and you can start assembling them onto the branch. Prepare the tape. After that we take the flower. To begin, we will attach our tape to the wire. We fix it under the very top. We secure the tape, pinch it with our fingers so that it holds tightly. The angle of inclination of the tape is less than 45 degrees. Tape on a wire, let's start assembling the flowers.

Take two flowers and secure them with tape. It is not necessary to immediately make a turn here. You can wrap part of it, and attach another flower on the other side, so that there is not too much tape on the stem. The flowers should not be very close to each other on the branch. For the top row, 5-6 flowers are enough for us. After this, we make a full turn to secure the flowers again. Here you can start the second row. The second row is assembled in the same way and so on until the very bottom row. There should be a small distance between the flowers so that they do not interfere with each other. You can tilt them a little during assembly. We place the last two flowers on a branch and use tape to go all the way to the end of the flower. The bottom edge is not necessarily straight. That is, flowers can be in such a chaotic order. We decorate the entire stem with tape. We are preparing it so that we can cover it with clay.

Now the sprig of muscari is ready to be covered with clay. We need to apply latex glue. We apply glue to the upper part, under the flowers, and just below. It is not necessary to coat the entire wire with glue at once; you can apply glue to the top or half of the branch.

Latex glue applied. Mix grass green paint into the clay. Take a small piece of clay. We place the clay on the stem so that it is lower than the flowers. Here we need to slightly press the polymer clay onto the stem with our fingers, so that we can lift the flowers, since they will be lowered later. We lift them a little and slightly smooth the clay here. Then we can also smooth this place with water so that it is smooth. I gradually move the clay down, and here I have exactly as much clay as I need. Clay is needed only to create the desired thickness of the stem. Gradually the clay moves down, the glue moves along with the clay. You can also add glue if there is not enough of it here. If your branch turns out to be very thin (for example, in the case of a small number of flowers and, as a result, a small amount of wire), you can apply a slightly larger layer of clay to make the stem thicker. At the bottom the stem becomes narrower, because There is much less wire in this place, so a little more clay can be applied here. To do this, take glue and move the clay. Let's take a little more clay, because we didn't have enough here. Apply glue again to the end of the stem. The flowers have already dried a little, so we can hold on to the part where we have flowers. There should not be a lot of glue so that the clay does not stick to your fingers later. If the glue leaks out, the clay will stick a little to your hands. Once we have covered the entire stem with clay, we will need water to smooth the stem. At the top we smooth it so that it smoothly transitions from the flowers.

You can do this in a slightly different way. First stick around part of the stem and leave some part untouched, that is, do not stick around with clay, hold on to the lower part - where there is no clay. When the part on which we applied the clay dries, it will be possible to hold on to it and stick to the very bottom part of the flower. Water should be used at the very end, when the clay is completely applied, because a large amount of water can also interfere - the clay will begin to stick to your hands. This will be undesirable. We only need water to smooth and even out the shape of the stem. We smooth the very bottom tip a little so that the wire is not visible there. Let's round it up. After this, you can dry the stem in order to mold the leaves of the muscari.

Now that the stem has dried, we move on to making the leaf for the muscari. We need clay of the same color. The leaf can be of different lengths. There may be several leaves. For example, here we have one shorter leaf, one longer one. Now we roll out the clay. Roll out to approximately the length of the leaf, the edge is slightly narrowed. Flatten the resulting strip with your fingers and take the stack and begin to roll it out. The length of the sheet can increase when rolling, but the sheet should not be very thin, especially where we will glue the wire. The straight muscari leaf is slightly curved, the tip of the leaf is rounded. The width of the sheet should not exceed 1-2cm. We slightly bend the edges of the finished leaf with our fingers. Now we apply latex glue to the bottom of the leaf, about one centimeter, then glue the leaf to the stem. We turn our flower over and glue the leaf, smoothing the edges of the leaf with water. Then we give the shape to the sheet. We place our flower on the table and create the shape that you personally like best, then leave it to dry.

When the leaf has dried, we proceed to the final stage, namely coloring the tips of the flowers. Muscari flowers have white edges; to achieve this you will need a solvent, oil paint, zinc white and a brush. We dip the brush first into the thinner and then into the paint and begin to apply white color along the edges of the flowers.

And now we have a muscari flower in our hands, some more time to work and a bouquet of muscari made from polymer clay on our table.

I present to your attention a master class on the muscari flower step by step photo. Making a muscari flower is not such a complicated process and you can quickly create such a beautiful flower with your own hands.

Muscari is a genus of herbaceous plants of the hyacinth family. Latin name given for the smell of flowers, reminiscent of musk. Miniature inflorescences appear in the spring, coloring flower beds lilac, blue, white, pink and even yellow shades. Be sure to create such a flower or even several with your own hands, and they will turn out to be a very beautiful and delicate composition!

So, let's start sculpting a muscari flower from polymer clay.

We will need: ThaiClay Classic polymer clay, Winton oil paints (No. 8, No. 21, No. 37, No. 40), PVA glue, synthetic brushes, thinner for oil paints, scissors.

First, we will make small buds that are located at the top of the flower.

To do this, take a small piece of polymer clay, add oil clay No. 37 and mix thoroughly.

We need a pale green color

Let's take a small pea.

Using a stack knife or a thin part of the main stack, draw lines from the center of the tsharik.

Make a shallow hole in the center of the ball.

This is what the bud should look like

We make about 15 of these balls and leave them to dry.

For the next buds, we need to take a small piece of polymer clay again, add yellow oil paint No. 8 and also mix the clay thoroughly until a uniform color is obtained.

We need pale yellow clay.

Just like in the previous case, we make about 15 of these buds, but they should only be a little larger than the previous ones.

For the next buds, we’ll take more polymer clay and add blue oil paint No. 21 and mix thoroughly.

We need pale blue clay.

This time we need to make an open flower. Take a small piece of clay and form an oval lump.

Using a thin part of the stack, roll out the walls of the flower to the full depth.

We form a stack of five notches along the edge of the flower.

We make about 15 flowers like this and leave them to dry.

Add more blue oil paint No. 21 to the remaining pale blue clay and mix until the color becomes more saturated.

We’ve already made about 40 of these buds and left them to dry.

Form a thick sausage.

Having lubricated the wire with glue along its entire length, we string the clay to its entire depth.

Carefully pull the clay onto the stem in a circular motion. If necessary, smooth the stem with water.

Lubricate the tip of the stem with PVA glue and glue round pale green buds.

Now, continuing to move in a spiral in a checkerboard pattern, we glue the pale yellow buds.

And we also glue the blue buds of our muscari flower in a spiral.

This is approximately what we got.

Use white oil paint to tint the tips of the flowers and buds.

Let's form a small “sausage”.

Use the main stack to roll out the shape of the future leaf. If you can’t roll it out evenly, you can trim the edges with scissors and give it the desired shape.

Lightly bend our leaf in half lengthwise.

Glue it to the stem with PVA glue and leave it to dry.

This is how the flower turned out! You can make more leaves!

I hope you liked this muscari flower master class and you received the necessary information. I am sure that by improving, trying and not stopping there, you will achieve even better and more realistic results! After all, sculpting flowers from polymer clay brings not only spiritual joy, but also moral satisfaction, the opportunity to realize your creative nature!

Hello! We are starting a lesson where we will sculpt polymer clay Muscari.

For this we need :

polymer clay,
wire 18 and 24,
round pliers,
oil paints (ultramarine blue and grass green)
main stack.

First, let's pay attention to the color of the muscari itself. The color can be from soft blue to bright blue and even purple. Let's look at the photo, here you can see - a lighter color and a darker one. You can optionally use light ultramarine, as we will do. For this flower you can also use dark cobalt blue or dark cobalt violet. Depending on this, the color will be slightly different.

First we will prepare the main color that we need for muscari - this is light ultramarine mixed with polymer clay. Depending on what color you want the flower to be, you mix the amount of paint. Once the main tone is prepared, we need to prepare another tone, even perhaps two tones. They will be a little lighter than the one we prepared. For this we take polymer clay and the one that we have already prepared. In 1:1 proportions we stir them again. There should be very little of this clay, since it is used only for the very top of the flower. I'll make it one tone lighter. This tone is for the top of the flower, and the main mass polymer clay- for the leaves of the muscari flower themselves.

Now let's move on to the frame of the flower. For this we need 24th wire. It is thicker than the 33rd, which we will use for the flowers themselves. For the frame we need half of the whole length. We will make a loop at the end. It should be long and flat. Now we need to apply a base to the tip of the wire in order to further attach the flowers that have not yet bloomed here, these will be balls. In order to make this top, we need a little polymer clay. We now take the clay that is one tone lighter. We apply latex glue to the wire, and the glue should be applied to a centimeter or one and a half loops. After this, we form the top of the flower on which the balls will be located. Muscari may already be in full bloom, and then we will start it with flowers. We will not have those balls that we will make now - we will just have flowers. If we are making a flower with balls, we can also cut the tip a little with scissors, creating the illusion that there are also those flowers that are not even flowers at all . We're just cutting the top: pretty deep cuts. They can be chaotic, they can be collected a little with your fingers. The length of the top that we made is exactly the distance at which the balls will be. If we make the top smaller, the length of the clay here will be shorter.

After we have prepared this part, we make balls for the muscari. The balls can even be white. We will make them a tone lighter than my flowers. The balls themselves can also be slightly different. We can make two or three rows of these same balls. They are very small, you need 6-7 of them in a row. We made balls, they can come in different sizes. This is even good, since we will make the top row from those balls that we got smaller. And we can even make the bottom row from the main tone, from which we will make flowers, so that there is a smooth transition. If you are making muscari with a white edge, then here you can make one row from the main color palette of polymer clay, two rows from the middle tone and the last row from the main tone, when we have the balls ready, we need to glue them to the top. To do this, we apply glue to the part where the clay is not cut. It is not necessary to smear it all at once, you can gradually add glue; for the top two or three rows I applied glue. Now I will place the balls here. You can pick them up with wire; I take the smallest balls and place them on the base. So we go through the first row. How many balls you get here depends on each individual, because it depends on the size of the balls. Moreover, they can and even need to be placed and glued more tightly to each other. When the first row is finished, you can take slightly larger balls and make the second row. Two rows are ready, I glued them quite tightly.

Now you can apply glue for the third and fourth row of balls. We make the third row from medium-tone clay, slightly lighter than the main one. We will make the fourth row of balls of the main tone - darker. The latex glue dries out a little over time and do not forget to renew it in order to better glue the balls. We made 4 rows - the top is already ready. If there is clay at the bottom that you do not need, the one we applied to the wire from the very beginning, it can be cut off with scissors so that it does not interfere with us attaching the flowers. Later, when we have the flowers ready, we can tint the top of the flower. At this stage it is ready, the top of the flower is ready.

Let's start with the flowers. We need wire number 33. It's thinner. We cut it into four parts. You need to make a loop at the tip of the wire. Since our flowers are very small, our loop is small. There are approximately 20 to 25 flowers on a muscari branch, so we need the same number of blanks. Therefore, we will prepare 20-25 wires, now we proceed to the flower itself, take a piece of polymer clay. Muscari flowers are very small, so we take clay in a size similar to a grain of corn. Now we need to make a slightly narrowed ball on one side from the ball. It's not a droplet, but it's a ball with one edge a little narrower. We will roll out the flower from the side where the narrow edge is. Using the tip of the stack, the thin end of the stack, we press on the part of the ball where the narrow part is. Literally press just a little, do not press in all the way. And now, in order to prevent the edges of the flower from expanding, here you can press them a little against the stack with your fingers. And thus the edges of the flower are slightly tightened. The most important thing with muscari is not to roll out the edges too much. The whole movement here is to stretch the top a little. The lower part of the flower remains dense. All we roll out is literally the top 3-4 millimeters, maybe even 2-3. Now we just have to roll out the center of the flower a little. The tip of the stack is slightly rounded. Here we need a stack whose tip is not particularly sharp. We hold the stack so that the walls roll out without expanding. That is, here is the angle of inclination of the stack with which we roll out the wall. That is, the flower rolls out from the inside, it expands towards the center.

The edges of the flower are rolled out, we can attach it to the wire. Place the tip of the wire in glue. We pass the wire through the flower. Since the bottom of the flower is not empty, that is, there is clay there, we will have a loop of wire inside, we will hide it in the flower. That's not all, the flower needs to be decorated completely. The edges of the flower need to be slightly bent. This can be done with scissors or a stack with a thinner edge. We press – the angle of inclination is about 45 degrees. Muscari has 5 or 6 petals. Here it’s like an illusion of the very petals that we have above. That is, we press so that at the top there is such an asterisk of 5 or 6 such triangles. And also the tip of the flower will become narrower, thanks to the fact that we make such clamps. Here you can pick up a little more with your fingers.

This completes one flower.

The flower may be a little smaller or a little larger. That is, on the branch there is a little less muscari closer to the top, of course. We’ll do the flower again, since it takes longer to explain than to do. In fact, making a flower doesn’t take long. That is, once again we make this edge a little narrower. This one has the inner part of the flower rolled out. And the last part is we make the edges of the flower. The distance between the presses is about a millimeter or two, so that it would be enough for us to make 5 or 6 such presses here. And then we’ll assemble the tip. Then we make 20 links, maybe a little more flowers. Our flowers are ready. I remind you once again that when the clay dries, the color of the flower becomes brighter and darker. This is especially true if you want a lighter flower, then you need to mix less paint.

You can do this in a slightly different way. First stick around part of the stem and leave some part untouched, that is, do not stick around with clay, hold on to the lower part - where there is no clay. Then, when the part on which we have already applied the clay dries, then you can calmly hold on to it and stick to the very bottom part of the flower. Water should be used at the very end, when the clay has already been completely applied, because a large amount of water can also interfere - the clay will also begin to stick to your hands. This will be undesirable. We only need water to smooth it out a little and even out the shape a little more. We smooth the very bottom tip a little so that the wire is not visible there. I'm rounding it up. After this, you can dry the stem in order to mold the muscari leaves.

Now that the stem is dry, we move on to making the muscari leaf. We need clay of the same color. The leaf can be of different lengths. You can also make one or two leaves. For example, here we have one shorter leaf, one longer one. Now I'm rolling out the clay. I roll it out to approximately the length that I will have a leaf, the edge is slightly narrowed. We flatten the resulting strip with our fingers and, taking a stack, begin to roll out the strip. The length of the sheet can increase when rolling, but the leaf should not be very thin, especially where we will be glue the wire. The straight muscari leaf should be slightly bent and the tip of the leaf should be rounded. The width of the leaf should not exceed 1-2 cm. We slightly bend the edges of the finished leaf with our fingers. Now we apply latex glue to the bottom of the leaf about one centimeter, then glue the leaf to the stem of the muscari from - since our leaf is long and bends at every opportunity, we turn our flower over and calmly, without fuss, glue it, seal the edges of the leaf with water. Then we give the shape to the leaf, that is, we put our flower on the table and create the shape that whichever you personally like best and leave to dry.

The result is a muscari flower in our hands, a few more efforts on ourselves and a bouquet of muscari made from polymer clay on our table

Hello! We are starting a lesson where we will sculpt polymer clay Muscari.

For this we need :

polymer clay,
wire 18 and 24,
round pliers,
oil paints (ultramarine blue and grass green)
main stack.

The edges of the flower are rolled out, we can attach it to the wire. Place the tip of the wire in glue. We pass the wire through the flower. Since the bottom of the flower is not empty, that is, there is clay there, we will have a loop of wire inside, we will hide it in the flower. That's not all, the flower needs to be decorated completely. The edges of the flower need to be slightly bent. This can be done with scissors or a stack with a thinner edge. We press – the angle of inclination is about 45 degrees. Muscari has 5 or 6 petals. Here it’s like an illusion of the very petals that we have above. That is, we press so that at the top there is such an asterisk of 5 or 6 such triangles. And also the tip of the flower will become narrower, thanks to the fact that we make such clamps. Here you can pick up a little more with your fingers.

This completes one flower.

The flower may be a little smaller or a little larger. That is, on the branch there is a little less muscari closer to the top, of course. We’ll do the flower again, since it takes longer to explain than to do. In fact, making a flower doesn’t take long. That is, once again we make this edge a little narrower. This one has the inner part of the flower rolled out. And the last part is we make the edges of the flower. The distance between the presses is about a millimeter or two, so that it would be enough for us to make 5 or 6 such presses here. And then we’ll assemble the tip. Then we make 20 links, maybe a little more flowers. Our flowers are ready. I remind you once again that when the clay dries, the color of the flower becomes brighter and darker. This is especially true if you want a lighter flower, then you need to mix less paint.

You can do this in a slightly different way. First stick around part of the stem and leave some part untouched, that is, do not stick around with clay, hold on to the lower part - where there is no clay. Then, when the part on which we have already applied the clay dries, then you can calmly hold on to it and stick to the very bottom part of the flower. Water should be used at the very end, when the clay has already been completely applied, because a large amount of water can also interfere - the clay will also begin to stick to your hands. This will be undesirable. We only need water to smooth it out a little and even out the shape a little more. We smooth the very bottom tip a little so that the wire is not visible there. I'm rounding it up. After this, you can dry the stem in order to mold the muscari leaves.