Spots on violet leaves appear for various reasons, most often it is not an infection or pests, but mechanical reasons, violation of agricultural technology and plant maintenance, sudden change temperature regime or sunburn, as well as toxic burns caused by excess fertilizer in the soil or irrigation water, burns from the use of pesticides and fungicides.
Sunburn appear on the leaves when exposed to direct sunlight or after watering, drops of water remain on the leaves, acting like a lens when exposed to the sun.

Such leaves are good to root; they produce very strong offspring, more resistant to sunlight, but on the condition that the children also grow up on the window, getting used to sunlight.
Draft spots – irregularly shaped, blurry spots of yellow or silver-brown color, appear after the outlet is overcooled during ventilation, going to market at temperatures below +16 degrees or exhibitions in cool unheated rooms, in winter - near violets standing on windows after ventilation.

Such stains do not cause harm, but they greatly spoil the appearance. Plants with such spots bloom beautifully, the leaves produce healthy offspring. There is no need to treat such violets; just let the center of the rosette grow and remove the leaves. White and red varieties are most susceptible to draft spots, so they are winter time It is better to keep it away from cold windows and put it in a warm place for ventilation. You can cover the violets with a piece of agrofibre while airing.
Black spots along the edges of the leaf followed by wilting and dying, most likely due to a lack of osmotic pressure created by the roots, i.e. the roots do not “pump” water enough. The pressure is only sufficient for young leaves that have a small evaporation surface. Leaves with a large evaporation surface evaporate more than they receive. Hence the withering.

Photo taken from: http://fialka-senpolia.narod2.ru/pravilnaya_diagnostika_zabolevanii/

Most often, this happens after turning on the heating system: the earthen lump dries out much faster than usual, the young root hairs responsible for absorbing moisture die off, and as a result, the entire outlet begins to suffer from drying out. To stop the process, it is necessary to remove part of the lower leaves, transplant the rosette into moist, fresh soil and keep it in a greenhouse for some time. But most often it is enough to adjust the watering, the plants recover themselves. Affected leaves just need to be removed.
Watery spots are formed during increased watering and sudden temperature changes; most often, plants that are wick-irrigated suffer from them with the onset of cold weather.

Photo taken from: http://fialka-senpolia.narod2.ru/pravilnaya_diagnostika_zabolevanii/

If watering is not adjusted, the leaves become watery and often die.
Chemical burn stains appear after the use of various poisons in high concentrations or with the abuse of fertilizers.

These leaves just need to be allowed to grow, then gradually removed. If the center of the rosette is burned, it will be faster to grow a new plant from a healthy leaf than to wait for the burned specimen to grow a full-fledged rosette.
In case of burns caused by excess fertilizer, if the plant has not lost turgor, you just need to switch it to watering it with regular water for several months until the center grows new leaves.

Photo taken: www.fialki.ru/node/7033

If the leaves continue to become stained, it is necessary to completely change the soil.

Rust stains – red pellets in the center of the rosettes, most often on children, appear with excessive watering from hard water, to get rid of them, just slightly raise the growing point by adding soil to the bottom of the pot or slightly removing it from above, and adjust the watering so that the soil is in The pot was only damp, but not wet. When the leaves grow, rust spots You can simply wash with warm water and remove damaged leaves.

Photo taken: http://fialki.su/node/3167

- I have an adult violet, but it doesn’t bloom. Why?
There may be several reasons:
- the pot is too big,
- insufficient lighting,
- prolonged heat above 30 degrees,
- instead of peduncles, stepsons grow in the axils of the leaves; they must be removed and the violet should be placed in a cool place, then buds will begin to form.
- low humidity (peduncles dry out before they have time to develop).

- My violet has a lot of leaves. Is it possible to cut them off?
With age, the lower row of leaves ages and turns yellow. They can be cut off. You can remove individual damaged leaves or those that disrupt the symmetry of the rosette. The plant needs the remaining leaves; the process of photosynthesis occurs in them. But it’s better to pluck out the stepchildren.

- The violet's bare stem has become long. What to do?
This happens if the violet has not been replanted for a long time. You need to remove it from the pot, remove some of the soil from below, carefully scrape the stem until green, succulent tissue appears, wrap it in sphagnum moss and bury it in the ground until the leaves reach. The trunk in the ground will grow roots. If the bare part of the stem is more than 2.5 - 3 cm, you will have to cut off the top with leaves, root it in water and then plant it.

- The stem has formed many stepsons. What to do with them?
- pinch off and throw away (so as not to distract the forces from flowering),
- pinch off and root (if additional plants are needed).

- The violet leaves began to stretch upward.
- insufficient lighting,
- the plant is too hot.

- Brown spots appeared on the violet leaves. What is this?
If the spots on the leaves are light, this is most likely sunburn; dark spots are due to drafts.

- When is it better to transplant violets and how often?
They are usually replanted in February or November (you can even do it twice a year). If necessary, the mandatory annual transplantation of violets can be done at any time of the year.

- How to get violets to bloom by a certain date?
2.5 months before the desired date, tear off all flower stalks, even the smallest ones. Then the next flowering will be just in time for the specified date.

- What does “violet-sport” mean?
Sport is a genetic mutation of the violet. Sometimes violets of a single color grow from a leaf taken from a fancy (spotted) variety; this happens spontaneously, without human desire or influence. It also happens that the sport turns out to be better than the original. In general, varietal violets consistently transmit their characteristics when propagated by leaves, and the appearance of sports is an exception to the rule, which is quite rare.

- Is it necessary to cover the planted leaf with a bag or jar?
If a leaf without roots is immediately planted in the ground, it must be covered, so it will take root better and faster. When planting a leaf already with roots, you don’t have to make a “greenhouse”.

- Which pots are better: plastic or ceramic?
It is the small size of the pot that is most important, not its material. Plastic pots are easier to clean and cheaper. The rest is a matter of taste.

- Are stimulants needed for leaf rooting?
For successful rooting, you can soak leaf cuttings in a solution of Epin or Zircon, and also sprinkle the sections with Kornevin. However, a good healthy leaf will quickly take root without this. If you want to experiment, you can use a special accelerator solution: 2 teaspoons of hydrogen peroxide, ¼ tablet of heteroauxin per 4 liters. water. Using a syringe, inject this solution directly into the tissue of the planted leaf, trying to get into the midrib in the apical part of the leaf. Administration of such a stimulant noticeably accelerates rooting, the leaf gives large quantity strong kids.

- What to do if a leaf doesn’t produce babies for a long time?
Method 1 - re-rooting: cut bottom part petiole, leaving 0.5 - 1 cm and root it in a container with moss or perlite (vermiculite).
Method 2 - cutting off the upper part of the leaf plate by 1/3 along the veins; cut part of the leaf, dried for half an hour or sprinkled with powder activated carbon, can also be rooted in sphagnum or vermiculite.

-The baby has bloomed, should I cut off the flower stalks or let it bloom completely?
After you are sure that the Saintpaulia baby has bloomed according to its variety, it is better to remove the flower stalks. Early flowering weakens the plant and stops development. In order for Saintpaulia to bloom profusely, it is necessary to increase the leaf mass and form a beautiful rosette. Only an adult healthy plant can reveal its full potential.

-Is it worth replanting the baby after acquisition?
As a rule, small children have recently been transplanted from the leaf and do not require replanting. An indicator for transplantation is an earthen ball strongly braided with roots.

In variegated varieties, spots disappear. Why?
Children of variegated violets may initially have no spots, or only a few. This is due to the fact that discolored areas do not participate in the synthesis of chlorophyll, and it is especially necessary for the development of young plants. When the rosette has gained sufficient green mass, spots will begin to appear.
Few spots occur when excessive fertilizing with nitrogen and keeping plants in too warm a room.

The leaves of violets stretch upward, turn pale, and the petioles become thin and brittle. What is the reason?
The plant is kept in low light conditions. Move closer to the light source or add additional lighting.

The leaves of the violets have become brownish, the peduncles are short, the flowers are becoming smaller.
The plant is kept in excess light. The plant needs to be shaded. The newly emerging leaves will return to their normal color. Old leaves, for aesthetic purposes, can be removed over time, because... they will no longer regain their color.

The stem of the violet stretched out and became bare. How to proceed?
If the stem does not exceed 2.5 cm, it is best to do the following: carefully scrape it until green, succulent tissue appears, wrap it in sphagnum moss and bury it in the ground up to the leaves. This stimulates the formation of roots in the wrapped part.
If the stem is more than 2.5 cm (which indicates the “advanced” age of the violet), then such a plant needs to be rejuvenated - either cut off the top and root it in water, or propagate with leaves. In general, it is best not to keep violets for more than 3 years, because... With age, it loses its decorative qualities and becomes more susceptible to disease. If you still want to keep such a plant, then it needs to be periodically rejuvenated.

Is it possible to pluck leaves from an adult violet and how many?
You need to pick off the very first, juvenile leaves that do not have the appearance characteristic of a given variety. Damaged or deformed leaves can be removed. You can adjust the shape of the rosette by tearing off individual leaves. You can leave the bottom row of older leaves and the top of the youngest ones. This will greatly affect appearance, it will not bloom for 5-6 months, but this way you can get a large amount of planting material both in the form of leaves and in the form of stepsons.

Is it possible to separate the stepsons all at once if there are many of them?
If a violet has many large stepsons (as a rule, this is the case with Dutch chimeras), then it is better to separate them not immediately, but at intervals of several days. Then there is less chance of infection and death of the entire plant. If the stepsons are small, then they can be separated all at once. In any case, it is necessary to sprinkle the wounds with activated carbon powder.

To ensure that the Saintpaulia soil does not contain harmful bacteria, it must be sterilized.
Or rather, it is usually necessary to sterilize the nutritious parts of the substrate. Substrate components such as perlite or vermiculite do not require sterilization.
1. Steamed - the substrate is placed in a canvas or cloth bag, which is placed over
a saucepan or bucket of boiling water so that it does not touch the surface of the water.
Leave for about an hour, then cool and can be used.
2. Warm in the oven - pour onto a baking sheet with high sides, pre-watering it with water and heat at 80 degrees for 30 minutes. You can use a saucepan, but then increase the time to 45 minutes.
3. Microwave - based on 1 kg of mixture - 5 minutes at maximum.
It is better not to use sterilized soil right away - but by adding a handful of unsterilized soil, mix it and let it sit for 2-3 days so that post-steaming toxicosis goes away.
You can also use special preparations such as Baikal, Vozrozhdenie, Himola preparations, Fitoflavin-300, Trichodermin 0.2%, etc. to populate the substrate with beneficial microorganisms.
The frequency of replanting also affects the development of the plant.
After separating the children and placing them in individual pots, they are transferred to larger containers, usually after 3-4 months (for standard varieties). There they grow until the first flowering, after which they are transferred to a pot of a constant size.
Subsequently, we are talking specifically about transplanting Saintpaulia without increasing the size of the pot
It is advisable to replant an adult plant once every 6-8 months. With regular feeding
maybe once a year.

To grow a healthy plant from a leaf you need to know the following:
If the plant is grown with additional lighting, then a leaf for rooting can be taken at any time of the year. If there is no additional lighting, then it is better to harvest leaf cuttings in the spring, during the period of active growth.
You can take leaf cuttings from flowering plant, but keep in mind that if you break the stalk from under the peduncle, the peduncle will certainly die.
To root, break off a leaf from the mother plant by pressing on the base of the petiole near the stem. You can cut the leaf, but you must break off the rest of the petiole, because it may rot.
To root leaves, it is better to use distilled or boiled water without any additives. But stepchildren respond very well to stimulants and fertilizers.

Very often the cutting does not produce children for a long time. No need to worry! There are two options:
1. Wait.
2. Without removing the leaf from the ground, cut off half of the leaf blade (horizontally to the ground).
Sometimes, having a limited number of cuttings, you want to get as many babies as possible. You can re-root the cuttings!

If you carefully separate the children without damaging the roots of the mother leaf, then it can be planted in the ground again and it will produce more children. This is especially recommended for fancy varieties - then the second wave of babies has a much greater chance of repeating the original color. You can, of course, not separate it, but simply cut it off, but then the leaf will spend energy on re-rooting and there will be much fewer children.

So that violets always look beautiful and do not suffer from dust
Violet leaves can and should be washed occasionally to remove dust. I do this once or twice a month in the cold season, and every week in the warm season. The rosette is washed under a gentle stream of lukewarm water under the tap, tilting the pot so that the soil does not wash away. After this, leave the plants in a warm place to dry. If wet rosettes are placed in a cool place, light spots may appear on the leaves.

The apartment has +27 degrees and dry air. To help the violet you need:
It is best not to deplete Saintpaulias by flowering - the flowers turn out deformed or with an atypical color. Cut off the flower stalks and water the plants in the evening; increase the air humidity near them by placing containers of water. In the evening, you can spray the sockets with water from a spray bottle.

Increased air dryness due to central heating. What can be done.
If your violets are on a windowsill, you need to prevent hot air from hitting them. To do this, make wide window sills or cover the radiators with plywood, fabric, etc. Place containers of water next to the plants. You can place pots on trays with expanded clay or sphagnum, filling them 2/3 with water.

A white-yellow crust appears on the top layer of soil in the pot and on the lower leaf petioles...
The white-yellow crust on the surface of the earth is nothing more than salts that enter the substrate along with water and fertilizers. To prevent soil salinization, it is recommended to soften irrigation water by boiling or adding large quantity citric acid (several crystals, with a total volume of about 2-3 millet grains per liter of water), or better yet oxalic acid, which precipitates salts. The addition of acid also helps convert poorly soluble fertilizers into an easily digestible form. If the water is hard, acidified water can be used every time you water.

How to choose the right water for irrigation, and is it possible to water violets with distilled water?
Distilled water is completely devoid of salts and has the property of actively adsorbing them onto itself. With regular watering with distilled water, all salts are washed out of the ground - both “harmful” ones that form a crust on the surface, and “useful” ones - fertilizers. Over time, flowers begin to starve and grow and bloom worse.

Watering violets correctly is also very important. After all, they can be poured and dried... And this causes a lot of diseases!
Violets like the soil to dry out a little between waterings. If the soil has dried well to a depth of 2-3 cm, the pot has become light, then you can safely water the plant. Water should not pour into the pan and sit there. For a medium-sized violet that is not too dry, in a plastic pot with a diameter of 7 cm, 3 tablespoons of water is enough. It is very easy to see whether watering is required and how much water is needed when keeping violets in transparent plastic cups.

What should it be right size violet pot?
The standard ratio is the diameter of the rosette to the diameter of the pot 3:1 Remember, violets have a rather weak root system and in a large volume there is a high risk of overflowing and, as a result, rotting of the roots.

What to do if a lot of water is poured into a pot of violets?
This sometimes happens if plants are on high, inaccessible shelves. If possible, drain the water from the pot by tilting it, and then place the pot (without a tray!) on several layers of absorbent material or toilet paper. Through the holes in the bottom of the pot, water will be absorbed into the paper. Change absorbent material as it gets wet. If everything is done on time, then the violet is saved. Do not water it for several days and spray it with epin.

Is it possible to plant a leaf with roots directly into a large pot?
It is not recommended - the probability of flooding it is too high, since the earthen ball will not be completely entwined with roots. For leaves, the optimal volume of soil is approximately the same as what fits in a standard yogurt cup.

What to do if babies and small rosettes have stopped growing?
First check the ground - is it compacted? If yes, then it is best to transplant the rosettes into light, loose soil. It is possible that the violets have not been fertilized for a long time.
More possible reason- poor development of the root system or rot of the roots and stem. If the violet is “sad” - the leaves are dull, limp, small, then cut it off at the base of the rosette, remove the rotten parts and re-root the rosette in water.

What to do if a violet produces many leaves and few flower stalks?
Most likely this is overfeeding with nitrogen fertilizers. Wait a month and a half and feed the plant with fertilizer with a high phosphorus content. If there are a lot of leaves, remove 1 - 2 lower tiers of leaves (don't forget to sprinkle the wounds with charcoal powder).

Is it possible to replant flowering rosettes?
It’s better not to risk it - wait until the end of flowering. If replanting is necessary, then do not replant, but transfer the rosette into a larger pot with added soil around the edges and tear off all flower stalks so as not to deplete the plant.

The leaf gave roots not from the bottom, but in the middle of the petiole. Should they be removed?
There is no need to remove either the roots or the lower tip of the petiole. When planting, place the petiole gently horizontally and cover it with soil to the very top roots.

The leaf has given birth to babies on the petiole, what should I do?
If the babies were formed directly on the cuttings of the mother leaf, then they will grow much slower than usual. The children can be removed and wait for the formation of normal children from the base of the cutting. Or wait until the tiny plant grows a little and carefully deepen the petiole of the mother leaf to the base of the baby. It is better to bury it either in pure sphagnum or in a very light soil mixture. By maintaining high humidity, the baby will quickly sprout roots and begin to develop as usual.

When is the best time to separate the babies from the leaf?
When the children have formed 2 pairs of leaves, about 2-4 cm each, for standard Saintpaulias - as a rule, this happens 3-4 months after the cuttings have rooted. Children of miniature Saintpaulias are planted later; if there is no danger of deformation of the small plant due to the large number of children, then they can be kept for up to six months.

What is the difference between a baby and a starter?
Baby - a plant separated from the mother leaf at the age of about 5-6 months; at 7-8 months, in many varieties you can expect the first flowering - so - a young plant that will bloom soon is called a starter.

Uzambara violets, so beloved by many flower growers in our country, like other indoor plants, unfortunately, are susceptible to attacks by pests, suffer from improper care and are quite difficult to tolerate fungal, bacterial and viral diseases.

In order not to lose the plants decorating the windowsill, it is important to recognize the problem as early as possible. Descriptions of violet diseases, their photographs and treatment that can protect Saintpaulia from death will help you quickly navigate the situation, organize plant care and restore health and beauty to the rosettes.

Why don't violets bloom at home?

When faced with problems with the growth of Saintpaulia, a long absence of flowering, or a violation of the development of the rosette, amateur gardeners should look for the reasons:

• V improper care for indoor plants;
• in pests that have settled on violets or in the soil;
• in violet diseases of different nature and danger to plants.

Pets of inexperienced beginners most often suffer from poorly organized care. Especially soon, traces of improper watering, lack of lighting and fertilization of violets become visible on the foliage.

With a lack of light, new generations of foliage look dimmer and smaller than old ones. The petioles lengthen, the edges of the leaf blades bend upward. The plant quickly returns to normal if it is placed on a lighted windowsill, protected from drafts.

One of the reasons why violets do not bloom at home may be excessive acidity or salinity of the soil, or incorrect selection of soil composition. In this case, not only does the formation of peduncles slow down or stop altogether, but leaf curling is observed. Similar symptoms can be seen with an imbalance in the mineral composition, for example, with a deficiency, or with excessive watering.

Uzambara violets react unusually sensitively not only to the amount of moisture entering the soil, but also to its temperature.

Light spots on the leaf blades seem to remind the gardener how to water violets correctly. This plant reaction signals excessive cold water or a burn caused by sun exposure to the wet surface of a leaf. That is why experienced gardeners recommend using only warm water and watering Saintpaulia only in the evening, when the likelihood of burns is minimal.

Diseases of violets: rot of leaves and roots

The greatest risk of rotting violet stems occurs when dividing plants, pruning and replanting the apical part of the rosette or separating children. The cause of this problem can be either pests or excess soil after a long period of relative dryness. Putrefactive bacteria settle especially quickly on damaged tissues, and damage to the roots and stem becomes the most destructive.

Symptoms of this violet disease include:

• loss of leaf turgor;
• loss of the natural color of the rosette;
• wilting of petioles and leaf blades.

Given the comprehensive nature of the violet disease, as in the photograph, treatment can only be urgent and drastic. Damaged tissue is removed, Saintpaulia is rooted using a healthy leaf that can produce new rosettes.

Very young rosettes, children and rooted leaves are susceptible to brown rot. In the latter case, the stem at the base becomes brownish-brown, softens and thins. On the soil under the rosette, whitish threads of mycelium are found. And if urgent measures are not taken, the violet disease spreads to neighboring plants.

As a preventive measure, rooted plants are treated with a contact fungicide, not buried, and then the area under the stem is irrigated with phytosporin or a chemical similar in action.

Wilting and dull coloring of leaves is also observed with the development of root rot. When plants are removed from the soil, softened brownish roots are found, infected with spores of a harmful fungus, which quickly multiply and disperse in a humid environment. At the same time, low acidity of the soil contributes to the development of an infection that is so dangerous for Saintpaulia.

One of the effective measures to combat this disease of violets can be considered reducing the frequency of watering. Despite the fact that plants rarely receive moisture, the portions should be plentiful. To prevent and treat violet disease, as in the photo, use root treatment. You can reduce the risk of spread by using soil that is not too water-retentive.

Gray rot also leads to liquefaction and weakening of the green parts of the plant, while a gray fluffy coating is clearly visible on the affected surface. All leaves with signs of violet disease, as well as dead leaf blades and cuttings, are removed, preventing them from falling to the ground. To reduce the risk of infection during the cool season, it is extremely important:

• avoid excessive air humidity;
• stop spraying sockets;
• Water the violets correctly, avoiding stagnation of moisture and the formation of condensation.

Among the chemical preparations for treating rosettes and protecting them, the ones chosen are quick and foundationazole.

Powdery mildew on Saintpaulias

One of the most common diseases caused by harmful fungi also affects Uzambara violets. Outwardly, the manifestation of this disease of violets resembles flour scattered on the leaf blades and corollas of flowers, and Saintpaulia is infected with the help of fungal spores in the soil.

The most susceptible to the disease are violets that are weakened after transplantation, recently faded specimens, young and, conversely, old plants.

As a preventative measure, rosettes are protected from temperature fluctuations, violets are watered correctly and fertilizing is used. If infection does occur, Saintpaulia requires treatment with a fungicide.

Fusarium as a disease of violets

The most dangerous disease for violets first affects the roots of the plant, which rot and soften, and then the infection spreads through the vessels to the stem, petioles and leaf blades of the lower leaves. When the disease occurs at this stage, most of the old foliage in the lower level withers, the stems and edges become watery, and then die completely.

The rapid death of the plant is facilitated by its weakening after flowering, lack of fertilizers for violets, and temperatures below 16 °C.

The fight against fusarium consists of urgently removing the diseased plant from the windowsill where other violets are kept. It is best to destroy the affected specimen along with the soil, and disinfect the pot with copper sulfate or an available fungicide. As a preventative measure, a watering regime is established, and in this case, it is correct to water the violets with a solution of phytosporin. This procedure is carried out monthly.

Late blight of Saintpaulia rosettes

Late blight on Saintpaulia plants appears in the form of brown, drying spots on the leaves. As the disease develops on violets, such spots spread, the affected tissue undergoes necrosis, and the rosette withers. It is not possible to restore the elasticity of the foliage even after watering.

If the apical part of the rosette is not damaged, you can cut it off and try to root it, after pre-treating it with an antifungal drug and removing all tissue affected by the violet disease. A healthy cut should have a light green tint. You can also take healthy leaves for rooting.

The remaining part of the rosette is destroyed, and all violets adjacent to the diseased specimen are subjected to preventive treatment.

Bronzing and leaf spot viruses

Viral diseases change the appearance of leaf blades, tissue supply and plant development. These diseases can be the reason why violets do not bloom at home, and then stop developing altogether.

The bronzing virus, for example, causes malformed leaves with discoloration. Such plants sometimes turn out to be unviable and are destroyed. And pests that are also found in apartments can spread the disease of violets. In this case it's thrips.

Pests on Uzambara violet plants

Pests that attack Saintpaulia can cause serious harm to indoor crops, since both the green parts of the plant and the roots fall into their sphere of interest. In addition, they spread the most famous diseases of violets.

At home, mites become the most dangerous pests of indoor plants. Cyclamen mites are especially common and harmful on violets; infestation with them is practically undetectable in the initial stages. Only when new leaves appear does it become obvious that the rosette is inhabited by microscopic insects, leading to the cessation of Saintpaulia growth, the refusal of the violet to bloom at home, and the shredding and curling of the leaves in the center of the rosette.

The pest is controlled using phytoverm or other insecticides, after first isolating the diseased plant.

An equally insidious enemy of violets is. From the soil, worms penetrate the root system of plants and the vessels that feed the rosette. They suck out the juices, poison the plant with toxins and disrupt the supply of tissues. As a result, the violet looks weakened, refuses to bloom, and grows poorly. On the green part of the plant, nematode damage looks like thickening of the stem, shredding and changing the shape of the foliage, and mass formation of babies.

At the same time, nodes and vesicular thickenings are clearly visible on the roots, where worm cysts develop.

It is reasonable to part with such a violet, but if you want to propagate a rare variety, you should never take leaves from the lower tiers, where nematodes may already live. The affected plant is destroyed along with the soil. The tray, pot and flowerpot are thoroughly disinfected.

Aphids are most easily detected by sticky secretions on the foliage and by the insects themselves on the back of the leaves and on the petioles, at their base. You can wash off the pest with a soap solution, being careful not to over-moisten the soil, as well as with Antitlin, Fitoverm or tobacco dust.

Thrips, which easily move from plant to plant, are the most dangerous for Saintpaulias kept at home. In addition, the pest, which feeds on plant juices, multiplies quickly and is capable of transferring pathogens of all kinds of violet diseases to the rosettes. Thrips can be destroyed using Aktara or another solution of a similar drug. When processing, the earthen ball must also be affected, and, in addition, the flower stalks are torn off in order to deprive the pest of food - Saintpaulia pollen.

Presence mealybugs produces white flakes on leaves, stems and petioles at their junction with the stem. In the soil coma of the affected plant, whitish lumps are noticeable. These are places where scale insects accumulate, feeding on plant juices. An infected violet quickly fades, the leaves become dull and yellowish.

If urgent measures are not taken, not only may the diseased violet die, but neighboring outlets may also be damaged. Treatment is carried out by watering the violets with Mospilan or Regent; the wilted parts must be removed and destroyed.

Sciarides are well known to all gardeners who grow indoor crops. Small black flies above pots are dangerous because they feed on Saintpaulia juices, and in the form of larvae they can cause serious damage to the underground parts of plants.

The fight against the Saintpaulia pest involves spraying the soil with a systemic insecticide, as well as organizing plant care. In this case, proper watering of violets is more important than ever, since excess moisture in the soil promotes the proliferation and activation of harmful insects.

The most beautiful and tender indoor plant- violet, very sensitive to the environment and very demanding in care; with any discomfort it can get sick.

Spots often appear on violets, what to do if you suddenly notice such a misfortune, how to identify the cause and how to return the flower to its former healthy appearance?
There can be many reasons for the formation of spots, therefore, in order to cure a violet, it is important to know all the possible factors that can cause a plant disease.

Why do spots appear on violet leaves?

But diagnosing the spots, that is, their color, intensity of distribution, and degree of damage to the leaves, will help narrow the range of possible causes and quickly find a solution to the problem.

Yellow-brown spots

Yellow and brown spots on the leaves can appear from excessive sunlight. lesions often begin at the edges of leaves. The leaf itself becomes sluggish and thins.

Sepolias cannot be exposed to the direct rays of the scorching sun for a long time; they simply burn in it.

The fact that such spots are burns can be determined by a characteristic feature: the leaves are more affected on the side closer to the window.

To solve the problem, simply move the pot to the shady side. Violets need light; they must stay in it for at least 10 hours a day, but they cannot be exposed to the sun for a short time. Mm, moderate lighting is enough and the best place for them is the north, north-east, north-west windows of the house.

Leaves can also turn yellow due to improper watering. Violets should be irrigated sparingly. It will tolerate drought more easily than too much watering.

If yellow or brownish spots look like ornate patterns, then most likely the Saintpaulia plant is in a draft or the room temperature is too low for it.

White spots

Light spots, as if sprinkled with dust or flour, indicate a fungus. At first, you may not even understand that these are pathological spots, and not just dirt.

The plant must be separated from healthy ones and disinfected. Read more about how to deal with powdery mildew here.

Note: indoor decorative violets are susceptible to fungal infections. Bacteria and insects settle on them much less frequently.

Brown, dark spots

Sometimes you may notice that the leaves have begun to darken and curl at the edges. This symptom indicates a lack of moisture. But this is no longer due to watering, but to the quality of the soil, which does not retain water well and the roots do not have time to absorb as much liquid as they need.

Remove the affected leaves and replant the violet in fresh soil.

Dark gray, black, purple spots on violet leaves may indicate the presence of fungal microorganisms. Moreover, they can settle not only on top of the plant, but in the root system. Exists great amount varieties of fungi, so it is extremely difficult to determine what exactly the flower is. But the plus is that almost all such infections are treated with the same drugs.

The violet needs to be separated from the rest of the plants, treated with a special antifungal solution (sold in flower shops), the affected leaves should be removed and after a week the flower should be transplanted into a new pot and soil.

Spots on violets, what to do if the reasons are different

Another possible factor why spots appeared on violets could be a lack of minerals and vitamins. This usually happens after wintering. The soil is depleted, and Saintpaulias need intensive feeding.

• A rusty coating can appear from poor, overly chlorinated hard water. It is necessary to water violets with filtered warm water, or in extreme cases, well-settled water.
• If the temperature in the room changes too sharply between day and night, the flower can also get sick. A delicate plant needs a stable temperature around +21-25 degrees.
• The size of the pot in relation to the size of the plant is also important. If the violet has grown too thick, the leaves tightly cover the top of the pot, and the soil simply lacks oxygen. The root system is depleted and the leaves begin to turn yellow and wither. It is enough to simply transplant the Saintpaulia into a freer container.

When spots appear on violets, what to do and what actions to take - there is no definite answer. You will have to carefully examine the plant, change the conditions under which it is kept, and observe it in order to detect and eliminate the cause. But despite such a high sensitivity of this flower to the environment, it recovers quite quickly.

So, if you try, you can quickly cure your violet and it will delight your eye with its beautiful blooms.

Indoor violets are demanding and delicate plants, sensitive to even the slightest temperature changes and the presence of drafts, changes in lighting and soil quality.

Any disease of these flowers is immediately reflected in their appearance. The leaves become covered with plaque and spots of various shades, which determine the cause of the poor condition. Violet diseases manifest themselves as spots on the leaves; every gardener needs to know how to treat them and prevent their occurrence in the future.

When spots appear on leaves

Spots on violets primarily affect the leaf blade, since it is all covered with delicate fluff. The villi react to external influences, signaling a change in color, first in small areas of the leaves, and then throughout the entire plant.

The primary reason for the appearance of stains on Saintpaulia is external factors. It is enough to change the position of the pot and place it on a more illuminated windowsill, and burns will begin to appear on the flower. And from a draft, a light rim appears, moving over time to the central part of the plate.

Internal diseases of the plant are no less common, one of the symptoms of which is spots. Leaf disease occurs when there is an excess of moisture or severe drying out of the soil. May develop from a deficiency essential vitamins if the wrong fertilizer is used.

Most dangerous cause fungal infection is considered due to improper maintenance or transfer from a diseased specimen. It is quite difficult to detect mycosis in the early stages, since the first symptoms appear from the bottom of the lower leaves. In more visible areas of the plant they can be seen in more complex forms.

Another reason why Saintpaulias become spotted may lie in the colony of insects. Diagnosing unwanted residents is simple - look at the mites themselves or their ovipositors through a magnifying glass. In this case, a characteristic difference from other diseases is the presence of holes in the spot area.

Causes of spots

Correct diagnosis and timely competent intervention will help eliminate leaf disease and save the flower. Depending on the type of disease, the spots differ in color, which determines the necessary control and further prevention measures.

Brown

Brown spots on violet leaves are most often the result of excessive lighting, in particular direct exposure to sunlight. At first they may have a beige tint, which darkens after a while. If you do nothing, in the center of this round spot a hole is formed.

To be sure that this is sunburn, you should pay attention to what part of the leaf plate is covered with brown areas - the side facing the glass can suffer so much that even the inflorescences burn out.

Another reason why there are brown spots with a brown tint on violet leaves is that the alkali content in the soil has greatly increased, and it is not at all suitable for the flower. This problem can only be solved by replanting, while thoroughly cleaning the root system of the plants.

The most dangerous situation is if brown spots appear on the Saintpaulia and cover large areas at once, and a grayish-white coating forms on the villi. This indicates that the violet has been infected with fungal and putrefactive diseases, which are difficult to combat. It is often almost impossible to save such a flower. Affected leaves with mycosis are completely removed.

Yellow

Violets are sensitive plants, and even drafts can make them feel unwell. They are the main reason when answering the question of where yellow spots formed on the leaves of the flower. They often have the most unexpected shape and a yellowish tint.

Draft spots do not pose a particular threat; it is enough to move the pots with violets to a safer place, remove the affected leaves and wait for new ones to grow.

Belykh

The biggest problem arises when white spots in the form of a thin coating are found on the violet leaves, which are easily scraped off. This symptom signals that the plant is infected with fungi, most often powdery mildew, resulting in a high risk of flower death.

Infection occurs in several ways:

1. Together with new soil, especially if garden soil is used for replanting, and not specially treated soil from the store.
2. A lack of potassium makes the plant unable to resist fungal diseases and increases the risk of infection.
3. The risk of infection greatly increases in conditions of high humidity, which is an excellent breeding ground for fungus, especially if the amount of nitrogen in the soil is exceeded.

Getting rid of fungus is difficult. The process involves several radical steps and a lot of time. In this case, the weakened plant becomes an object for attack by rot, mold, and insects. Therefore, all gardeners point out that the main remedy for powdery mildew is preventing its occurrence.

Black

If Saintpaulia becomes covered with black spots, then this indicates one thing - the fungal disease has penetrated so deeply into the structure of the leaf that it has begun to die. You can try to save the flower using a number of complex radical methods, but this guarantees a positive result.

Burns and rust on leaves

Sunburn and rusty deposits in the form of red pellets are similar. They can only be distinguished upon careful examination.

If the source of the first reason is clear, then the second is the plant’s reaction to excessive watering with hard water. Such symptoms do not pose a particular threat to violets, and they are easy to eliminate.

What to do when disease spots appear

Having determined the reason why the violet becomes stained, you can begin to fight it. This process is easiest to implement if the defects are caused by improper maintenance conditions:

1. In the case when spots form on the violet due to exposure to sunlight, it is enough to move the pots with Saintpaulias to a darker place, and curtain the area of ​​the window near which the plant is located. Sometimes a thicker mosquito net can help. After such actions, damaged leaves are removed from the flower and new ones are allowed to grow.
2. If rust appears on the leaves, treatment is carried out by raising the dew point, for which you should transplant the violet into a wider pot or change the watering method, using the method of irrigation not into the ground, but through a tray.
3. The first reason why violet leaves turn yellow is drafts. Especially in the summer, when the windows are opened for ventilation. It is easy to eliminate the cause - rearrange the flowers or protect them with any available object in the form of a barrier.
4. If brown (rarely black) spots or dark brown dry areas appear on the plate, this indicates that the soil has become alkaline and it is necessary to immediately replant the Saintpaulia. When changing the soil, be sure to remove the old substrate as much as possible, cut off the damaged elements and sprinkle the cuts with charcoal.

It is much more difficult to deal with stains that are symptoms of fungal diseases. Here it is important to determine the exact reason in order to clearly develop a plan that will help Saintpaulia; you can find out what to do by visiting specialized websites or flower growers forums.

Covering the leaf blade with multi-colored spots of various shapes indicates infection with powdery mildew, rot or another virus. The longer the plant is sick, the larger the radius of damage, which over time spreads to the buds.

Microorganisms weaken the flower so much that it may simply die. In this case, the first priority action will be to isolate sick Saintpaulias from healthy ones and completely remove the affected areas. Then follows the disinfection process - the violets are treated with any suitable antiseptic, starting from copper sulfate and potassium permanganate.

For more complex cases, Topazo, Zircono, etc. are used. The drugs must be used according to the instructions on the packaging.

With putrefactive infection, not only the spots are clearly visible, but also the lethargy of the cuttings and the darkening of the young shoots. The ground part is covered with white threads of mycelium. The fight, as in the previous case, begins with isolating the flower and removing all damaged areas. Then the surviving leaves and buds are sprayed with fungicides and antiseptics. Be sure to treat the soil with Fitosporin.

The worst picture for any gardener is the darkening of the leaves and the appearance of dry brown spots on them, which quickly affect the entire plate, leading to its complete deformation. If brown spots appear, this indicates that the violet has become infected with viruses. Methods effective fight however, it does not exist. The diseased flower will simply have to be thrown away; the empty pot should be treated with potassium permanganate and set aside for a while for complete disinfection.

With proper and constant care for violets, it is not difficult to identify and eliminate the problem, but you should remember that it is better not to treat the disease, but to prevent its occurrence. Experts say that any type of disease originates from illiterate content. Therefore, the most important step to ensure beauty and lush year-round flowering is the recommended maintenance conditions.

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