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Dress styles for girls 3 years old. Modeling lesson: How to sew a summer dress for a girl. How to sew a fluffy dress for a girl

18.09.2023

Pattern: fluffy dress for a girl with a pleated skirt (for 9 years)

Pattern: fluffy dress for girls with a circle skirt (for 9 years)

How to sew a fluffy dress for a girl

Step 1: For a pleated dress, start from the bottom first. Process the bottom of the product and then add bow folds; you can see how to make a skirt with pleats in this

Step 2: Sew the side and shoulder seams on the top of the dress.

Step 3. Sew the edges on the skirt. If you have chosen a model with a circle skirt (I wrote about how to sew a circle skirt), sweep the top section of the skirt and gather it to the size of the bottom section of the top of the dress. Then sew the skirt to the top.

Step 4. For convenience, sew a zipper into the back middle seam.

Step 5: Sew seams on the sleeves, if any. Baste the top edges and sew in the sleeves.

Step 6. To make the skirt even fuller, you should make a tulle petticoat identical to the main skirt. Pull it over the dress, tuck it in and sew it to the zipper, and then to the seam of the skirt.

Pattern of a fluffy dress for a girl

Download the patterns at the end of the post, open the PDF file and print at full size. Cut out the parts and transfer them onto fabric.

Dress pattern for a 2 year old girl (download below)

What do you need:

  • 60 cm elastic fabric for the top,
  • 90 cm of knitted fabric for a skirt,
  • paper pattern.

The width of the fabric cut for the skirt is 90 cm, and the length depends on your preferences (measure from the girl’s waistline).

Finish the bottom edge of the sleeves. Cut off the excess on the small sleeves (shown by the arrow). Baste and tighten a little so that the top of the sleeve becomes 12.5 cm. Sew the sleeves to the front and back top flange. Sew the side seams on the top of the girls' dress.

Sew the braid to the neckline. It is better to sew with a stretch seam, such as a zigzag or stretch seam.

Process the bottom of the future skirt. Baste the top and tighten the thread until the resulting size for the top of the skirt matches the bottom of the top. Pin the skirt to the top and sew.

Another dress for a girl, made using this pattern

MK: how to quickly sew a fluffy dress with a ballet skirt

And here is another option for a fluffy dress for a girl. It can be sewn together in a matter of minutes, since the top part will already be ready. We will take a blouse of the appropriate size for her.

What you will need:

  • Blouse (can be a T-shirt),
  • 50 cm of knitted material for the petticoat,
  • 1 m tulle,
  • elastic band.

Step 1. Cut off the excess part of the sweater so that it ends at the girl’s waist.

Step 2. Sew on a wide elastic band.

Step 3. Cut two trapezoidal pieces from knitted fabric. To do this, attach the fabric to the cut of the blouse and, starting from the waist, draw two oblique lines. Cut out the resulting A-shaped pieces and sew along the sides.

Step 4. Cut the tulle into 2 equal pieces for a two-layer skirt. Baste the cuts along the top and cut to the size of the bottom of the top of the dress (in other words, to the size of the top section of the petticoat). Sew the tulle skirt to the petticoat, and then sew it to the wide elastic band on the top of our dress.

Master class: how to sew a dress for a girl from an adult sweatshirt

Now let's see how to transform your sweater into a dress for a girl. To work, you only need the sweatshirt itself.

First you need to rip off the sleeves. Then attach the child’s T-shirt to the jacket folded in half, tucking it in at the bottom (tuck it where the waist begins). Trace and cut out the top. On the bottom, draw areas for pockets along the top of the dress. Next, draw a straight line to the bottom. Cut out the bottom of the product.

Cut pockets from the remaining fabric. To do this, attach the sections for the pockets on the skirt to the fabric, outline, and draw the remaining part.

From the sleeves of the sweatshirt, cut out sleeves for a baby dress. To do this, attach the sleeve to the top of the dress and draw a curved line from the bottom. Sew in pockets.

Jacket dresses for girls - final

Sew the top and bottom. A dress for a girl from a sweatshirt is ready!

For the hardworking - a bright light burns through life, for the lazy - a dim candle

Children's dresses - sew them yourself quickly and easily! Part 1

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Hello, dear mothers, I’m starting a series of articles on sewing children's dresses. The motto of these articles will be “Down with complex drawings and intricate calculations of patterns”.

Many people are put off by complex patterns, taking measurements, and various mathematical calculations, especially if you weren’t very familiar with geometry and drawing at school.

My goal is to explain everything in such a way that even mothers who do not have a mathematical mind can sew clothes for their children.

I will show you how to sew beautiful children's dresses yourself - I will tell you everything in as much detail and in an accessible language as possible, without resorting to abstruse tailoring terms.

For each dress, I will draw picture diagrams on which I will try to show step by step the sewing of a children's dress, starting from creating a pattern to working with fabric. Even those who do not have sewing skills or a sewing machine will be able to please their daughter with a new thing, sewn by her mother’s loving hands.

So let's get started!

A simple one-piece dress is the basis of all dresses

Let's start with a simple one-piece dress. I will tell you and show you how to make a pattern for a one-piece children's dress, and then use this one pattern to sew all these dresses.

Yes, yes, having just one pattern, we will sew in the future many different beautiful models of children's dresses. Let's get started...

Drawing a pattern

As I promised, there won’t be anything super complicated. Open the closet with your baby's clothes and find a T-shirt that fits her just right(that is, not tight or large, but more or less in size).

This T-shirt will serve as our assistant when creating a pattern for a future dress.

We also need a sheet of paper of such a size that the pattern of our future dress will fit on it - for this I use a tube of unnecessary old wallpaper (if you don’t have old ones, buy a tube of the cheapest wallpaper in the store - this roll will be enough for you to make many patterns, like a child , and to yourself).

We unfold a sheet of wallpaper on the floor with the wrong side up (so that the pattern does not distract from the pattern), press the edges with something, so that he doesn’t bend and crawl on the floor(I press my husband with dumbbells or thick books). We place a straightened (pre-ironed) T-shirt on top and trace the outline of the T-shirt with a pencil. They circled it - that’s it, we don’t need the T-shirt anymore.

Note! If you don't have a sleeveless T-shirt, but there is only a T-shirt with sleeves, don’t worry, it will also fit. When you trace the T-shirt, use a pin to trace the armholes through the sleeve of the T-shirt. Along the entire armhole seam, make pin holes through the T-shirt and the underlying paper. For this purpose, it is better to spread the paper not on a hard surface, but on the carpet - this will make it easier to pierce holes. And then, along this holey line, draw the outline of the armholes with a marker (the armholes are the opening for the arms).

And now on top of these T-shirt outlines we will draw our pattern

The contours of the drawn T-shirt will greatly facilitate the creation of the pattern. They will help us depict the proportional silhouette of the dress, where we do not need to calculate the length of the shoulder, the width under the bust, the length of the armhole (the armhole is a hole for the arm) - all this will already be on the drawn T-shirt. We look at the picture above. We outlined the T-shirt (Fig. 1), and drew a dress along the contour of the T-shirt (Fig. 2).

Please note 3 points:

  1. The shoulders of the dress should be slightly sloping
  2. the bottom of the dress is not a straight line, but rounded
  3. the lateral lines from the armpits downwards slightly diverge to the sides (like a trapezoid)

There's another one here important note:

For those who doubt whether a pattern drawn in this way will suit your child, there is a simple tailoring way to check. This method will also allow you to draw any shape of armholes (arm holes) on your dress. The contours of the armhole and neckline do not have to be the same in shape as the T-shirt. You can choose any shape and depth of armholes and neckline. There is only 2 rules, subject to which the drawn pattern will ideally suit your child.

The dress has 2 important parameters that determine whether the dress will be true to size to your child. They are shown in the picture below:

1st parameter is the width of the dress along the axillary line (value A)

The 2nd parameter is the size of the armhole from the axillary line to the shoulder (value B)

To do this, you only need to take one measurement - half-circumference of baby's chest - take a centimeter and wrap it around the chest at its most convex part and remember the number (this will be the value girth chest), and now divide this figure by 2 (this will be the value half-girth chest).

Now look at the picture - it says how to calculate quantities A and B

For example, girth the chest of my two-year-old daughter (height 85 cm, weight 11 kg) - 50 cm. So to get half girth– 50 divided in half = 25 cm.

Dimension A = 25 cm + 6 cm = 31 cm.

That is, the dress I drew should have a width from armpit to armpit of 31 cm. Then it will fit in size - it will not be tight - since these additional 6 cm are added precisely for the loose fit of the dress.

And if you want a dress to grow a little, then add not 6 cm, but 7-8 cm. Size B = 25 cm: 4 + 7 = 6 cm2 mm + 7 = 13 cm2 mm(these millimeters can be safely ignored). That is, if the height of the drawn armhole is 13 cm, this armhole will be perfect for my baby.

That's all, following these 2 simple rules, we will always have a dress pattern that is the right size for our baby. And no complicated drawings.

So, we drew the outlines of our future dress. Now make seam allowances— we stepped back 2 cm from the contours of the dress and drew it again with a thick, bright marker (Fig. 3 in the first diagram). These will be the final contours of the dress with allowances for the side and shoulder seams, at the bottom an allowance for the hem and an allowance for finishing the armholes and neckline.

(By the way, there are tailoring standards here: an allowance of 1.5-2 cm for the side and shoulder seams, 1-1.5 cm for the armhole and neckline, 4-6 cm for the hem). But I’m just looking at the fabric - if it frays a lot on the cut, then it’s better to make a larger allowance, otherwise while you’re sewing and trying on, half of the allowance will turn into fringe.

And also, when you draw a dress, don’t be upset if yours is a little crooked- one shoulder is more sloped than the other or the left armhole is not shaped like the right. This is not important, since we will transfer to fabric only one half drawn pattern (left or right - whichever one came out more beautiful) - and when cutting, the dress detail will turn out to be absolutely symmetrical.

Now you will understand everything...

Divide the pattern in half to get one shelf

In order for the dress part to end up symmetrical (that is, the left and right sides of the part are the same), we only need one half of the resulting pattern.

To do this, fold the cut out pattern in half - approximately shoulder to shoulder, armpit to armpit (approximately, because if you drew it crookedly, then the shoulders and armpits of the left and right halves may not completely coincide when folded).

Added and received fold line(Fig. 2), which runs right through the middle of the dress, and along this line you need to cut the pattern in order to end up with only one half of it (the shelf - as tailors call it - left or right, whichever one you have is more beautiful and even) - Fig. 3.

The pattern is ready. It would seem that everything is simple, and so it is.

Transfer the pattern to fabric and sew

We have in our hands a pattern for one shelf (left or right) and now we need to transfer it to fabric and cut out the detail of the back and dress.

The resulting shelf pattern was first placed on one side of the fabric - circled in chalk (Fig. 4), then turned over in mirror image with the other side (moving the central midline of the shelf to the similar line just drawn in chalk) (Fig. 5) - and also outlined. And the result is an absolutely symmetrical finished part of the front or back of the future dress.

By the way, if you don’t have a chalk, you can use a colored pencil or sharpen a regular piece of soap with a knife (light soap draws well on colored fabric); it’s great to draw on white fabric with children’s colored wax crayons.

We cut out exactly the same part for the back. Yes, many dresses (especially summer ones) have exactly the same front and back details. But you can draw a back pattern that is different from the front pattern, it will take you 2 minutes. Read below

Back pattern and its differences

Usually, classic pattern of the front and back of the product differ from each other in the depth of the neckline and armholes(armholes are holes for the arms).

As you can see in the picture above, the armholes and front neckline are more curved inward, that is, deeper (blue outline), and at the back they are less deep(red outline).

And if you look at the photographs of the dresses at the beginning of the article, you will notice the difference in the neckline and armholes of the front and back.

Having examined many ready-made children's dresses in the store, I came to the conclusion that few dresses have a difference in the cut of the back and front armholes. That is, the armholes of the back and front coincide for the most part sleeveless dresses. And dresses with sleeves The back armholes are less deep than the front armholes - as in our diagram above). As a rule, there is a difference in the depth of the neck, but not always.

Conclusion: For children's summer dresses without sleeves, identical armholes and identical necklines at the front and back are absolutely acceptable. For children's dresses with sleeves, we make the back armholes less deep.

You are your own creators and artists of the future dress. As you draw, so it will be - in any case, you will get a beautiful dress, don’t worry.

Sew the front and back together

Now (Fig. 6) we place both parts on top of each other with the front sides inward and manually connect the side and shoulder seams with coarse stitches.

We try it on and, if everything is good, we sew these seams on a machine, after which we pull out this rough thread (for those who do not have a machine, you can simply go to a clothing repair center or an atelier; sewing a couple of seams will cost you $1).

We bend the edge of the hem and either sew it on a machine or hand-baste it with hidden stitches (ask your mother or grandmother - she will show you how).

Now you need tidy up the neckline and armholes(Fig. 7). You can simply fold the edges inward and stitch. Or you can buy braid or bias tape and use it to cover the neckline - this is done in most children's dresses.

In this article we tell you how Make your own pattern for the base of a dress for a younger or older girl. If you have a little fashionista, I mean a daughter or granddaughter, then you just need to master the technique of creating patterns for girls. Children grow out of clothes very quickly, and every time you want to update your children's wardrobe, you will have to create a new pattern. It may seem difficult the first time. But I assure you, the second, third time everything will be much easier. And the fifth time, starting to build, you will know all the calculations by heart. It's not difficult at all. Moreover, we offer STEP-BY-STEP instructions for constructing a pattern drawing. Line by line and the pattern is ready. It's simple.
Today we will learn how to build a pattern basics dresses. And later, on the basis of this foundation, we will master the modeling of different styles of children's clothing. It is very exciting! I don't even know who will enjoy it more. You - from the very process of creating a children's wardrobe, or your little “client”, receiving new outfits as a gift from you. In my opinion, this is a mutually beneficial cooperation. Moreover, the benefit, first of all, is the moral satisfaction of both parties. This is cool!

To make the correct pattern, you must have accurate measurements taken. If mistakes are made when taking measurements, the drawing will turn out to be inaccurate and the dress will not fit well on your figure.
Measurements are taken with a measuring tape, which is not loosened or pulled too tightly. The girl, dressed in light clothing or underwear, should stand without tension, in a normal position. A cord or thin belt is tied along the waist line.
When taking measurements, it is necessary to clarify the height of the shoulders. Shoulders can be high, normal or sloping. Everything is like adults.

The correct construction of the drawing largely depends on this measurement.
As an example, we will create a pattern for size 32. You are taking your young lady's measurements.

Dress for girls

To create a pattern drawing, you will need the following measurements:

Half neck circumference

Measure at the base of the neck. The measurement is recorded in half size.

Half chest

This measurement determines the size of the figure. The measuring tape should go along the protruding parts of the shoulder blades on the back and along the highest part of the chest. The measurement is recorded in half size.

Half waist

Measure at the narrowest point of the waist. The measurement is recorded in half size.

Half hip circumference

Measure along the highest part of the hips, taking into account the bulge of the abdomen. The measurement is recorded in half size.

The distance between the high points of the chest.
The measurement is recorded in half size.

Measure by placing a measuring tape from the left hand to the right at the level of the protruding parts of the shoulder blades. The measurement is recorded in half size.

Measure from the seventh cervical vertebra to the lace at the waist. The measurement is recorded in full.

Length of the product

Measure from the seventh (protruding) cervical vertebra in the middle of the back to the required length (8). The measurement is recorded in full.

Shoulder length

Measure from the base of the neck to the shoulder joint. The measurement is recorded in full.

Arm circumference

Measure around the arm at the armpit. The measurement is recorded in full.

The length of the sleeve

Measure from the shoulder joint to the hand. The measurement is recorded in full.

Allowance for a loose fit along the chest line is 6 cm (for older girls, add 5 cm for a loose fit), along the waist line, 2 cm (for older girls, add 1 cm), along the hip line, 3 cm (for older girls, 2 cm).

On the left side of a sheet of paper,
Having stepped back 7 centimeters from the top cut, draw a vertical line on which to measure the length of the dress and put points A and H. Draw horizontal lines through points A and H to the right.


Rice. 1

From point A to the right, set aside the measurement of the half-circumference of the chest plus 6 cm for a loose fit (for older girls, add 5 cm for a loose fit) and place point B.
AB = 32 + 6 = 38 cm.
From point B, lower the perpendicular until it intersects the bottom line. Designate the intersection point as H1.


Fig.2


From point A down, set aside the length of the back to the waist plus 1 cm (for older girls plus 0.5 cm) and place point T.
AT = 29 + 1 = 30 cm.
Draw a horizontal line through point T to the right. Designate the point of intersection with line BH1 as T1.


Rice. 3

From point T down, set aside 1/2 of the back length measurement to the waist and place point B
29: 2= 14.5 cm
Through point B to the right, draw a horizontal line until it intersects with line BH1. Designate the intersection point as B1.


Fig.4


From point A to the right, set aside the back width measurement plus 1.5 cm and place point A1
14 + 1.5 = 15.5 cm


Rice. 5

Armhole width.
From point A1 to the right, set aside ¼ of the half-chest measurement plus 1 cm (for older girls, plus 0.5 cm) and place point A2.
A1A2 = 32: 4 + 1 =9 cm.
From points A1 and A2 down, draw vertical lines of arbitrary length.


Rice. 6


From point A to the right, set aside 1/3 of the neck half-circumference measurement plus 0.5 cm and place point A3.
AA3 = 14: 3 + 0.5 = 5.2 cm.
From point A3 upward, draw a perpendicular, on which set aside 1/10 of the neck half-girth measurement plus 0.8 cm and place point A4.
A3A4 = 14:10 + 0.8 = 2.2 cm.
Divide the angle at point A3 in half, from point A3 along the line dividing the angle, set aside 1/10 of the neck half-girth measurement minus 0.3 cm and place point A5.
A3A5 = 14: 10 - 0.3 = 1.1 cm.
Connect points A4, A5, A with a smooth concave line.


Rice. 7

Back shoulder line.
From point A1 down, set aside 2.5 cm for normal shoulders (1.5 cm for high shoulders, 3.5 cm for sloping shoulders) and place point P. Connect points A4 and P with a straight line on which
remove the shoulder length measurement from point A4 plus 1.6 cm for the dart and place point P1.
A4P1 = 10.3 + 1.6 = 11.9 cm.


Rice. 8

From point A4 to the right, set aside 3.5 - 4 cm and place point O. From point O downwards, draw a vertical line, on which set aside 6 cm and place point O1. From point O to the right, along line A4P1, set aside 1.6 cm and place point O2. Connect point O1 with a straight line to point O2, on which set aside the value of segment OO1 from point O1 and place point O3. This construction can be done using a compass (see Fig. 10).
By connecting points O3 and P1 with a straight line, we complete the design of the shoulder line.


Rice. 9


From point P down, set aside 1/4 of the half-chest measurement plus 7cm and place point G
PG = 32: 4 + 7 = 15 cm.
Draw a horizontal line through point G to the left and right. Designate the point of intersection with the line AN as G1, the point of intersection with the line of the armhole width as G2, and with the line BH1 as G3.


Rice. 10

Back armhole cut.
From point G up, set aside 1/3 of the distance PG + 2 cm and place point P2
GP2 = GP: 3 + 2 = 15: 3 + 2 = 7 cm.
Divide the angle at point G in half and along the line dividing the angle from point G, set aside 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.5 cm and place point P3.
GP3 = 9: 10 + 1.5 = 2.4 cm.
Divide the width of the armhole GG2 in half and place point G4. Connect points P1, P2, P3, G4 with a smooth line. We get the back armhole line.


Rice. eleven

Front armhole cut.
From point G2 up, set aside 1/4 of the half-chest measurement plus 5 cm and place point P4.
G2P4 = 32: 4 + 5 = 13 cm.
From point P4 to the left, draw a horizontal line, on which set aside 1/10 of the half-chest measurement and place point P5.
32:10 = 3.2 cm.
From point G2 up, set aside 1/3 of the value of the segment G2 P4 and place point P6.
G2P6 = G2P4: 3 = 13: 3 = 4.3 cm.
Connect points P5 and P6 with a dotted line, divide it in half, set aside 0.8 - 1 cm from the division point to the right, and mark this point with the number 1. Divide the angle at point G2 in half. From point G2 along the angle dividing line, set aside 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 0.8 cm and place point P7.
G2 P7 = 9: 10 + 0.8 = 1.7 cm.
Connect points P5, 1, P6, P7, G4 with a smooth line.
We have finished building the front armhole.


Rice. 12

Shelf neck cut.
From point G3 up along line H1B, set aside 1/2 of the half-chest measurement plus 3.5 cm (for older girls, plus 2-2.5 cm) and place point B1.
G3B1 = 32: 2 + 3.5 = 19.5 cm.
From point G2 along line G2A2, set aside the value of the segment G3B1 and place point B2. Connect points B1 and B2.
From point B1 to the left, set aside 1/3 of the neck half-circumference measurement plus 0.5 cm and place point B3.
В1Вз = 14: 3 + 0.5 = 5.2 cm.
From point B1 down, set aside 1/3 of the neck half-circumference measurement plus 2 cm and place point B4.
B1B4 = 14: 3 + 2 = 6.7 cm.
Connect points B3 and B4 with a dotted line and divide it in half.
From point B1 through the division point, draw a line on which set aside 1/3 of the neck half-girth measurement plus 1 cm and place point B5
B1B5 = 14:3+1 =5.7 cm.
Connect points B3, B5, B4 with a smooth line. We get the line of the front neckline.


Rice. 13


From point G3 to the left, set aside the measurement of the center of the chest plus 1 cm (for older girls, plus 0.5 cm) and place point G6.
Г3Г6 = 7+1=8 cm.
From point G6, draw a perpendicular to line B1B2, mark the intersection point as B6.


Rice. 14


From point B6 downwards, set aside 1 - 1.5 cm and place point B7. Connect point B7 with a straight line to point B3 and a dotted line to point P5.
From point P5 to the right along the dotted line, set aside the measurement of the shoulder length minus the value of the segment B3B7, minus 0.3 cm and place point B8.
10.3 - 2.8 - 0.3 = 7.2 cm.
Connect points G6 and B8 with a straight line, along the continuation of which from point G6 set aside a value equal to the segment G6B7 and place point B9. Connect points B9 and P5 with a straight line.
(This construction can be done using a compass. From point G6, as from the center, draw an arc through point B3 to the left, until it intersects with a straight line and place point B9). Choose the option that is convenient for you.


Rice. 15

Side seam line.
From point G to the right, set aside 1/3 of the width of the armhole and place point G5 (9:3 = 3cm).
From point G5, lower the perpendicular to the bottom line, mark the points of intersection with the lines of the waist, hips and bottom as T2, B2 and H2.

For determining general tuck solution along the waist line, add 2cm to the half-waist measurement, for older girls 1cm (28+2=30cm), then subtract this value from the width of the dress between points TT1 (38-30= 8cm).
The size of the front dart opening is equal to 0.25 of the total dart opening along the waist line (8x0.25=2cm), the side dart opening is 0.45 of the total dart opening (8x0.45=3.6cm),
rear 0.3 of the total solution (8x0.3 = 2.4 cm).
To calculate the dress along the hip line, add 3 cm to the hip half-girth measurement (for older girls, 2 cm) for a loose fit; from the resulting value, subtract the width of the dress obtained when constructing the drawing between points BB1 (38 + 3-38 = 3 cm).
Distribute the result equally between the shelf and the back (3:2 = 1.5 cm).
From point B2 to the left and right, set aside 1.5 cm and place points B3 and B4.
From point T2 to the left and right along the waist line, set aside half of the side dart solution (3.6: 2 = 1.8 cm) and place points T3 and T4.
Connect points T3 and T4 with straight lines to point G5 and extend the line up to the armhole line.
Connect points T3 B4 and T4 B3 with dotted lines, which you divide in half.
Set aside 0.5 cm from the division points to the left and right and connect them with smooth lines to points T3 and B4, and, accordingly, T4 and B3.


Rice. 16


Rice. 17

Front waist line.
From point T1, set aside 1.5 cm down and place point T5. Connect points T5 and T4 with a smooth curve.


Rice. 18

From point B1, set aside 1.5 cm down and place point B5. Connect points B3 and B5 with a smooth curve.


Rice. 19


Divide the distance between the points GG1 in half, designate the division point as G7. From point G7, lower the perpendicular to line BB1. Designate the intersection points with the waist and hip lines as T6 and B6, respectively. From point T6 to the left and right, set aside half of the back dart solution (2.4: 2 = 1.2 cm) and place points T7 and T3. From point B6 up, set aside 3 cm. Connect the resulting points.


Rice. 20

Design of the dart on shelf.
From point G6 down, draw a vertical line until it intersects with line B3B5. Mark the intersection points with the waist and hips as T9 and B7, respectively. From point T9 to the left and right, set aside half of the front dart solution (2: 2 = 1cm) and place points T10 and T11. From point G6 down, and from point B7 up, set aside 4 cm and connect them with points T10 and T11.


Rice. 21

Design of the side seam line.
Draw vertical lines from points B3 and B4 down, mark the points of intersection with the bottom line as H3 and H4. If the dress should be widened, then set aside 3-5 cm from points H3 and H4 to the left and right and connect them with straight lines to points B3 and B4.


Rice. 22


From H1, set aside 1.5 cm down and mark point H5. Connect points H5 and H3 (and in the extended version, the lower point of the side seam 3) with a smooth curve. If the dress is widened towards the bottom, it is necessary to adjust the bottom line of the back. From point H downwards, set aside 1-1.5 cm, place point H6 and connect it with a smooth curve to the lower point of the side seam of the back 3.


Rice. 23


Rice. 24


Rice. 24

All. Pattern construction is complete

Remind you, that this is a dry drawing, a kind of frame from which a style of any complexity can be modeled. The simplest thing you can do yourself is a yoke on the bodice, or cut the dress along the waistline and gather the lower part of the dress (skirt), or make a frill along the bottom of the dress, etc.


Rice. 25

In the next issue we will create a sleeve pattern for children.

In subsequent issues we will learn how to model, and then we will begin to master sewing technology.

Follow the site news and you will always be up to date.

I wish you all creative inspiration!

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What a blessing to have a little daughter! With her appearance, many ideas arise with outfits and hairstyles. Mothers tirelessly dress up their dolls in beautiful fluffy dresses. Dressing a child in beautiful outfits is not such a cheap hobby. When buying something lush again for a matinee, many mothers have a question: can I sew something like this on my own? Sometimes a simple children's dress is the same price as something for an adult, let alone exclusive holiday outfits for a child.

simple cut

If you show your imagination and set aside some free time, you can sew a stunning dress for a 3-year-old girl yourself. The pattern is quite simple, it is basic for many models. Don't be afraid to sew such things. The main thing is to start, with this model everything will definitely work out! My daughter will be proud of her new dress, it will be her favorite, because her mother sewed it!

First you need to arm yourself and start creating patterns for dresses for girls 3-4 years old. When sewing clothes, children of this age do not need darts on the bodice and waist, or other cutting complications. In addition, you can show imagination and skill by adding numerous ruffles, multi-layered fluffy skirts to the model, decorating with bows and rhinestones as much as you like, without fear of going overboard. Girls in such dresses look amazing, and the more decorations on the dress, the more they feel like princesses.

Constructing a pattern

To sew a holiday dress for a 3-year-old girl, the pattern should consist of a top, which will serve as a yoke, and a bottom, which will serve as a skirt. The skirt can be sewn with side seams or made into a single piece, stitching only the back. Also, when creating a pattern, you can adjust the length, height of the waistline, the presence of sleeves, the type of skirt and much more. But the pattern base is the same for everyone - a T-shirt-shaped bodice.

It is first necessary to take measurements from the child to build a basic grid. The width of the pieces (such as the back and front) should be equal to half the waist circumference; to do this, the full size is divided by two to get the half circumference. Moreover, the back consists of two shelves for sewing in a zipper.

  • Waist /2 = SWEAT;
  • chest girth/2 = POG;
  • back length to waist or high waistline = DST;
  • skirt length from waist to bottom = DUNE;
  • product length = DI;
  • sleeve length, possible without it = DR.

The hip girth will not be needed, the dress will be full, so it will not play any role in building the base. The pattern can be created on the back side of rolled wallpaper or on thick oilcloth. As an example, you can also use a ready-made dress for a 3-year-old girl and make a pattern based on it, taking into account the new sizes. To do this, place the transparent film one by one on the folded parts and, using an oilcloth handle, repeat the contours along the seam lines. After construction and cutting, the pattern for a 3-year-old girl can be transferred to fabric.

You need to cut out about a centimeter. Do not confuse the face with the back; mark the pattern on the back of the material. If the fabric slips, you can use pins. After checking once again the fit of the parts, you can begin to grind them down.

The procedure for carrying out sewing operations

The parts are sewn together on a sewing machine, or even on a simple straight-stitch machine. Finishing the edges is usually done with an overlocker, but if this is not available, you can get by with a zigzag stitch, or after direct stitching of the product, overcast the edges by hand. After all, dress patterns for girls (2-3 years old) are small, and it won’t take much effort or time to manually finish the seams. Sequence of work:

  1. Side and shoulder seams.
  2. Side slits on the skirt.
  3. Sew the sleeve sections.
  4. Sew in the sleeves.
  5. Connect the yoke with the skirt.
  6. Sew a zipper between the back halves.
  7. Neck treatment.
  8. Processing the bottom.

All that remains is to trim the remaining threads, iron - and the dress is ready! Now you can implement ideas regarding decorative additions. Separately sew a belt and tie it with a bow at the back.

Petticoat

For pomp, you can sew a petticoat separately and wear it with the dress. Horizontal rings that add volume can be inserted into the bottom seam and in the middle of the petticoat; they are available in specialized stores. Or sew a fluffy one underneath, but you won’t be able to achieve the same volume as with rings. Multilayer petticoats are not recommended for children: the space filled with a lot of fabric will hinder the movement of the legs.

Skirt sun

In a dress for a 3-year-old girl, the pattern of the lower part can be anything: sun, half-sun, a rectangular piece of fabric gathered on top can also be used. Of course, the sun looks more magnificent, and besides, it will be great to spin in such a dress!

In order for a sundress to have smooth edges along the bottom, you need to adhere to certain rules when cutting. To create patterns you need: POTH and length from the waist to the desired mark. A perpendicular is drawn down from the middle of the horizontal line. Divide the half waist circumference by four, this is the length from the center point to the beginning of the pattern. Measure the length of the skirt from there and mark a point. Mark from the center to the bottom, using a bisector between the two formed right angles (shown in the photo). Connect the lower points to form a semicircle, and do the same with the waist line.

The patterns will come in handy

The patterns should not be thrown away; they may come in handy more than once. For example, with the onset of the New Year holidays, the time for matinees begins in kindergartens. The basic pattern of a New Year's dress for a 3-year-old girl can remain the same, you just need to add details that match the image. Make the Christmas tree dress from green fabric, trim it with ruffles, flounces and decorate with small New Year's balls and rain. My daughter will be irresistible! From white fabric you can sew a Snowflake or Snow Queen dress, wear a voluminous tulle petticoat under a short sun dress, sew on snowflakes and sparkles, plus a crown! Why not a queen?

Conclusion

So, what does it take to sew a dress for a 3-year-old girl? A pattern, fabric, a sewing machine and my mother’s skillful hands. Because only mom knows what it should be: pink or blue, with a bow, a flower or with cats. After all, a dress can be decorated as your heart desires, you just have to start. And as you gain experience with simple things, perhaps for the prom after graduation, you will be able to sew a more complex dress for your adult princess yourself!

Every girl should have at least one dress in her wardrobe. This applies to all representatives of the fair sex: from newborn babies to graduates. If you want your baby to look original, try sewing the dress yourself. Dress patterns for girls will help you with this, and you can be absolutely sure that no one else will have such an outfit.

What styles and colors are most popular?

Today, a variety of floral prints are very popular. These could be small daisies or large peony buds, large sunflowers or a scattering of forget-me-nots. Little fashionistas really like all this.

The usual geometric patterns and polka dots do not lose their position. In recent years, the nautical theme has also become very popular. But more and more eclectic models are appearing that combine different prints. They are popular due to the versatility and unusual nature of their outfits.

The choice of dress style is influenced by the age of the baby. For example, many dress patterns for girls aged 2-3 years have a high waist, because such dresses look great on children and are very comfortable for them to play in. In addition, if the girl is under 3 years old, it is necessary to take into account her anatomical features, because then the tummy is still a little round, so the model should have a straight silhouette or the already mentioned high waist.

However, not everyone likes outfits of such styles. Dresses with full skirts are considered the main object of adoration, because in them girls can feel like real princesses. That is why the main trend now is considered to be outfits in the style of the sixties, which you can sew with your own hands, adding a beautiful dress to your little fashionista’s wardrobe.

Dress pattern for girls: master class

First of all, you need to take measurements of the baby. As an example, we will use standard sizes for a child 80 cm tall, that is, we will look at how to make a dress pattern for a 1-year-old girl. When creating a pattern yourself, you just need to insert the obtained measurement values ​​into the formulas.

Materials required for work:

  • graph paper (it’s better to take this, because it’s very convenient to make a pattern on it, the lines will turn out perfectly straight);
  • tape measure;
  • square;
  • long ruler;
  • calculator (or pre-prepared calculations);
  • patterns (to design the sleeve cap, neckline, armhole).

To build a drawing, you need to take the following measurements:

  • OG - 50 cm;
  • OSH - 25 cm;
  • front length - 22 cm;
  • front width - 24 cm;
  • back length - 21 cm;
  • back width - 23 cm;
  • the length of the entire dress is 38 cm.

Step-by-step algorithm

Basis calculation:

  1. You need to put a dot on the top right, then draw 1-2 down from it - this is a line indicating the length of the product.
  2. On this line, from the first point, you need to measure the length of the back and put 3.
  3. The resulting segment is divided in half, and we set 4.
  4. From 4 you need to measure 1 cm down and put a point 5, from which a horizontal line is drawn. On this line you need to set aside part 5-6, which will be equal to half the width of the back (for us it is 11.5 cm).

  1. Divide the resulting chest girth in half (it turns out 25 cm) and add a small allowance, for example, 4 cm. The width of the armhole is a quarter of the resulting figure, to which we add 1 cm. It turns out 8.2 cm.
  2. We draw the armhole, marking it 6-7, so that we can draw a couple of lines upward from the resulting points. By putting 8, we get a segment indicating half the width of the front part, and then we draw another line from this point.
  3. After this, from 2 you need to draw a line to the left, closer to the middle of the front of the dress.
  4. Then, from 3, an auxiliary line is also drawn to the left and 9 is placed.
  5. From it through 8 it is necessary to draw a vertical line, which will indicate the length of the product in front. It is the length of the back, to which 1.5 cm is added (we have 22.5 cm).
  6. Then you need to draw a line from 10 until it intersects with the one coming from point 7.
  7. Now all that remains is to draw a line from 1 that must intersect with the segment coming from 6.
  8. The pattern of a dress for a girl should take into account the structure of the child’s figure, so you need to change the slope line. To do this, on parts 3-9 you need to measure 0.5 cm to the left and put 9a. From the resulting point, a line is drawn upward through 8 and 10a is placed. Nearby, segment 6-7 is divided in half and you need to put 11; from the resulting point you need to draw a vertical line simply down.

  1. The width of the neck is one-sixth of the circumference of the neck, to which 1 cm is added. To indicate it, set it to 12.
  2. Part 12-13 is a third of the segment between 1-12 (we have 1.7 cm).

This dress pattern is suitable for a 2-year-old girl, only the sizes are different.